OEM Electrical System Upgrade II of II: BIG THREE, Grounding Kit Big Brother (HOW-TO)
10-03-2006, 05:23 PM
#46
Originally Posted by mendon99
current takes the path of least resistance.
Originally Posted by MrGone
Was talking to Dan 
...so far I have to say that I am quite happy with this mod. I am reading anywhere from 11.5 to 12.5 at any given point in time...it's VERY stable, something which is quite important to me considering the massive number of LEDs I am running and the importance of keeping the voltage stable.
10-04-2006, 03:13 PM
#47
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3
Metal,
Thanks again for all your advice and pics! I started this project today using Stinger Expert 1/0 gauge wire from a local shop. I installed the battery negative to chassis ground wire. I just used regular crimp connectors.
Amazing what even one wire does. Thanks again. I hope to do the other ground wire this week, and the power/fuse line next week sometime.
Thanks again for all your advice and pics! I started this project today using Stinger Expert 1/0 gauge wire from a local shop. I installed the battery negative to chassis ground wire. I just used regular crimp connectors.
Amazing what even one wire does. Thanks again. I hope to do the other ground wire this week, and the power/fuse line next week sometime.
04-25-2007, 06:35 PM
#48
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 12
I've got a few quick questions--
For those of us that have batteries only have the side posts, is there any way to provide an adequate connection from the alternator to the battery positive terminal while keeping the stock power connection? My Max's ring connectors for the battery are slightly corroded, and there's no place to get a really good connection with just a ring terminal.
When replacing the Alternator to Battery cable, should I run it in addition to the cable I'm about to add, or keep it disconnected? Is there a fuse for that connection that I can remove so that I can leave the original cable loose in the engine bay without having to worry about it sparking against the alternator?
For those of us that have batteries only have the side posts, is there any way to provide an adequate connection from the alternator to the battery positive terminal while keeping the stock power connection? My Max's ring connectors for the battery are slightly corroded, and there's no place to get a really good connection with just a ring terminal.
When replacing the Alternator to Battery cable, should I run it in addition to the cable I'm about to add, or keep it disconnected? Is there a fuse for that connection that I can remove so that I can leave the original cable loose in the engine bay without having to worry about it sparking against the alternator?
07-03-2007, 10:28 AM
#59
Originally Posted by Wil's95SE
Where you hiding them at Henry? Point in the right direction 
Post 69. Post 81 is pretty informative- check out those links.
09-21-2008, 07:53 PM
#60
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 210
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=505174
Post 69. Post 81 is pretty informative- check out those links.
Post 69. Post 81 is pretty informative- check out those links.
09-22-2008, 05:52 AM
#61
Got moved...
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...v-install.html
Edit: I relocated a lot of the pictures from that past thread to this album:
http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...nryiv1/Stereo/
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...v-install.html
Edit: I relocated a lot of the pictures from that past thread to this album:
http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...nryiv1/Stereo/
Last edited by phenryiv1; 09-22-2008 at 06:04 AM.
04-11-2009, 12:56 PM
#64
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: East Greenwich, Rhode Island
Posts: 74
Missing Wires -- Explanation Please
The revised wiring system is very nice, but I could use some help understanding the changes on the Positive side.
The factory positive connector is a three-wire unit under a red flip-up cover: one thick wire and two thinner wires connected together by a metal strip.
The revised system shows a top-mounted Stinger connector with two thick wires -- one of which connects directly to the Alternator post, bypassing any previous circuitry. The photo doesn't show where the second thick positive wire goes, or where (or whether) it divides in two before continuing the two circuits that previously existed.
Also, in the revised system there are some wires connected to the front positive terminal and it would help to know what they are.
In other words, I am trying to figure out how to "complete" all the necessary positive connections since now there are two wires whereas before there were three.
I will be using 4 gauge wire for the main links and 8 gauge for the lesser links. Should the starter motor get the heaviest wire?
The factory positive connector is a three-wire unit under a red flip-up cover: one thick wire and two thinner wires connected together by a metal strip.
The revised system shows a top-mounted Stinger connector with two thick wires -- one of which connects directly to the Alternator post, bypassing any previous circuitry. The photo doesn't show where the second thick positive wire goes, or where (or whether) it divides in two before continuing the two circuits that previously existed.
Also, in the revised system there are some wires connected to the front positive terminal and it would help to know what they are.
In other words, I am trying to figure out how to "complete" all the necessary positive connections since now there are two wires whereas before there were three.
I will be using 4 gauge wire for the main links and 8 gauge for the lesser links. Should the starter motor get the heaviest wire?
04-12-2009, 01:31 PM
#65
One of the new wires goes directly to the alternator, the other new wire connects to the old battery terminal, which still has the 3 connectors. The old terminal is simply hidden in the picture.
Are you doing a big 3 or grounding kit?
Are you doing a big 3 or grounding kit?
04-16-2009, 02:06 PM
#66
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: East Greenwich, Rhode Island
Posts: 74
I Did the Big Three and added a few more grounds as well. Also upgraded the wire between the positive terminal and the fuse block.
Took the Bose system completely out of the car; and that includes disconnecting all the connectors in that area from the clock, heater, etc.
When the car is asleep (I hope) and the hood sensor is taped soundly into the closed position, here are the fuse locations that still have current:
BATTERY IGN -- 4.20 TO 5.50 mA
ECCS 2 -- .59 mA
BCM -- 38.7 mA
ALT.S -- CHIRPED AND BLEW FUSE ON MULTIMETER !!
12 V SHOWS IN VOLTAGE MODE
Over the last few months the car has been to a local garage and to the Nissan Dealer. I wonder if it's possible that they fiddled with the harness in some way looking for one current leak and manufacturing another.
By the way, I was going to test the relays, but can't seem to pull them from the Relay box. Even using pliers to depress what appear to be the locking tabs, I pulled them mighty hard with no release; worried that if I pull too hard they might break or wreck their socket. Any advice?
Any help would be appreciated. I am going to drop this note in a couple of other related threads, just in case.
Took the Bose system completely out of the car; and that includes disconnecting all the connectors in that area from the clock, heater, etc.
When the car is asleep (I hope) and the hood sensor is taped soundly into the closed position, here are the fuse locations that still have current:
BATTERY IGN -- 4.20 TO 5.50 mA
ECCS 2 -- .59 mA
BCM -- 38.7 mA
ALT.S -- CHIRPED AND BLEW FUSE ON MULTIMETER !!
12 V SHOWS IN VOLTAGE MODE
Over the last few months the car has been to a local garage and to the Nissan Dealer. I wonder if it's possible that they fiddled with the harness in some way looking for one current leak and manufacturing another.
By the way, I was going to test the relays, but can't seem to pull them from the Relay box. Even using pliers to depress what appear to be the locking tabs, I pulled them mighty hard with no release; worried that if I pull too hard they might break or wreck their socket. Any advice?
Any help would be appreciated. I am going to drop this note in a couple of other related threads, just in case.
07-12-2009, 10:18 AM
#70
is it just me or is part 1 the same as part 2?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...grade-how.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...grade-how.html
07-12-2009, 05:44 PM
#71
Ya, looks the same, strange.
Maxlover1718: It's a generally good thing to do, but its more necessary when you have a system. 5th/6th gen are slightly different procedures due to location of components but same concept.
Maxlover1718: It's a generally good thing to do, but its more necessary when you have a system. 5th/6th gen are slightly different procedures due to location of components but same concept.
10-22-2009, 12:18 PM
#72
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Great!!! i was looking for a write-up for the big 3. WHat kind of improvements did ppl see.
What is the wire gage in the car now. It looks like 8 to me. I always see the lights dim when i use the power windows. so annnoying and i was lookin at replaceing the big 3. Will it be safe if i jus do the big 3 and nothing else?? like, i wont burn out any internal wiring to the car or anything??
What is the wire gage in the car now. It looks like 8 to me. I always see the lights dim when i use the power windows. so annnoying and i was lookin at replaceing the big 3. Will it be safe if i jus do the big 3 and nothing else?? like, i wont burn out any internal wiring to the car or anything??
04-07-2010, 08:51 AM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
Stinger HPM and hyperflex is the wires you guys been using that is super nice and flexible. Trust me their is stinger out there that is hard as a rock like Stinger Custom. lol. Anyway. Pretty good write up man. Good pics however a few things.
1. Grounding to the side Timing cover... Not an engine block. It is not as good as a ground going there. There is a much better place going from the neg battery terminal to the front of the exhaust manifold next to the starter(where I put mine)
2. You don't need a fuse going from the battery to the alt. yes we know the electrical system is devided off the alt, but there is still cables (unfused) going to the battery and its not really a necessity. However it is a good idea to be safer then sorry, The battery acts as a damper(or buffer) anyway. So you really can't over amp or blow anything off that 110amp alt. lol
I personally Just grounded my engine to the net battery and a neg off that battery too the car. That works the best. 2 done there. All 0 gauge of course.
Another way you can give some extra current flow power(to your starter if you want but not really a necessity) is take that decent sized 8 gauge pos wire that is going to the started and wire that 0 gauge to the stater. That is a quicker way to get some better flowing current from the alt cause you kno the starter has to have some decent less resistance somewhere with all the amps it pulls. Again. This is a personal preference it is what I did as additional however you should do it the pos to alt way. As I think that is much better. And There is a much better stinger neg pos you can buy it is called the STINGER SPT53103. It is great for those Loops right into the screw posts and don't have to deal with any extra wires or jacket ripping.
1. Grounding to the side Timing cover... Not an engine block. It is not as good as a ground going there. There is a much better place going from the neg battery terminal to the front of the exhaust manifold next to the starter(where I put mine)
2. You don't need a fuse going from the battery to the alt. yes we know the electrical system is devided off the alt, but there is still cables (unfused) going to the battery and its not really a necessity. However it is a good idea to be safer then sorry, The battery acts as a damper(or buffer) anyway. So you really can't over amp or blow anything off that 110amp alt. lol
I personally Just grounded my engine to the net battery and a neg off that battery too the car. That works the best. 2 done there. All 0 gauge of course.
Another way you can give some extra current flow power(to your starter if you want but not really a necessity) is take that decent sized 8 gauge pos wire that is going to the started and wire that 0 gauge to the stater. That is a quicker way to get some better flowing current from the alt cause you kno the starter has to have some decent less resistance somewhere with all the amps it pulls. Again. This is a personal preference it is what I did as additional however you should do it the pos to alt way. As I think that is much better. And There is a much better stinger neg pos you can buy it is called the STINGER SPT53103. It is great for those Loops right into the screw posts and don't have to deal with any extra wires or jacket ripping.
05-25-2010, 03:04 PM
#76
Has anyone here upgraded the wire between Alternator to battery without fusing it? As s1ctech has mentioned, there doesn't seem to be a real need for it. I am going to have to do this ugprade tomorrow, plus upgrade the alternator ground because I feel that a faulty ground is the cause of my recent alternator problems.
05-26-2010, 11:56 AM
#78
Has anyone here upgraded the wire between Alternator to battery without fusing it? As s1ctech has mentioned, there doesn't seem to be a real need for it. I am going to have to do this ugprade tomorrow, plus upgrade the alternator ground because I feel that a faulty ground is the cause of my recent alternator problems.
05-26-2010, 08:26 PM
#79
A fuse holder and a fuse cost what $10? If you don't care about safety go ahead and go without it. Last I checked every car manufacture places a fuse in between the battery and alternator unless they are right next to each other. A live wire crossing across the front end of a vehicle is the most important wire to be fused.
I noticed that there is no grounding cable for the alternator - did you guys add one somewhere to the alternator chassis?
I also added a ground between the battery ground to the top of the engine, around the front valve cover area. Lights are still dimming with the a/c on, but the alternator warning lamps haven't come back on - yet.