True enough - I will tackle that one next. What about grounding the actual alternator - any real point to this since it should already be grounded through it's chassis?

 

Nah, not necessary.

 

On the 4th gen there is not sure about the 5th gen. It's not gonna make a big difference but it won't hurt.

 

great write up! i think i have to do this on my car, i have a brand new alternator and battery but the battery is always low on charge. The begining of your post refers to this as a "Kit" were can i obtain a kit with everything i need? autozone?

 

Are ring terminals sufficient when connecting the grounding cables to the negative post? Or do i need to replace the entire positive and negative terminal connectors like you did to accept the larger wire?

 

Don't bother - just buy some bulk wire and ring terminals.

If your terminal has the real estate to accept a ring terminal then great. Some need to replace their terminals because they've run out of room and need the versatility.

 

This is a total placebo mod. All this talk about "reducing voltage drops" and he throws a 300a fuse in between the alternator and battery Upgrading the wiring can't hurt. But sanding down the surface of ground points provides little if no improvement to continuity. The stock terminals are secured with fat screws torqued into a threaded hole, plenty of surface area there, think 3rd dimensionally. There's absolutely no reason to sand paint away, in fact it will just rust easily and you'll be worse off down the road.

 

Ok buddy

 

yeah, we all don't treat the bare metal after sanding since we all love rust to form. dontcha know?

 

We allllllllllmost made it a year without it being bumped...

 

Cars corrode over time and thousands of miles racked up as they are exposed to the elements daily this is why you should sand it down occasionally. The build up of corrosion can even prevent a car from starting. They didn't invent wire brushes for your hair.

 

yeahhhh but it won't be org-like if old **** threads don't get randomly bumped up.

 

I couldn't help it after reading the whole thread.

I used lowes 4ga few strand wire(cheaped out). Guess that was pointless.

Off to the audio shop tomorrow.

 

2 years now....sorry had too.

 

Hey guys. I been dying to do some upgrades on the wires for a bit. My whole deal is this the stock positive battery cables. Does it have more than just alternator to battery. I see in the picture that he has the stock cables still attached on the extra side post of the battery or am I wrong. Stock cables have the 2 square terminals one fused. And joined together and that attaches to terminal right. So what's up wit that. Does the big 3 ultimately replace all that. Total separate wires to pos bat term. Would be just the 2 0 guage. What about the starter

 

I've done two of three (plus a transmission to engine ground), but I still need to do the alternator to battery. Where can I get the fuse and connectors? Does anyone have a part number? I'm having trouble finding the right one online and I don't want to order the wrong part.

 

I just used standard car audio ring terminals & fuse holder. I bought these items from knukonceptz.com

 

I ordered this, is this correct?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231480771017

 

The fuse holder will work. I don't know why it comes with a 300 amp fuse. That fuse exceeds the current capability of 4ga cable. Just be sure to use a smaller fuse.

 

Ok. I just purchased that because I have extra 4 gauge wire and I thought the 300 amp was because of the alternator like the original post said. So I should get a 0/1 wire and a 0/1 holder with 300 amp fuse then?

 

Our alternators don't put out that much current. You can use 4ga....just fuse it for what the wire can handle. The knukonceptz 4ga I used is rated for 150 amps.