How much power my car can handle? Help please
#1
How much power my car can handle? Help please
Hi all,
I am in the process of buying a JL audio 1000/1 mono block amp and hook it up to a JL audio 13w7! So was wondering if my car would handle that with a stock alternator and battery. That is 1000rms and add another 300rms for my 4 channel amp powering my door speakers! So let me know If I am good to go, or do I have a brick in my path? Help is greatly appreciated ohh an Happy holidays guys!
p.s I am not doing competions or anything of that sort, plus i doubt i will ever play the sub at full potential, well maybe for a split second!
I am in the process of buying a JL audio 1000/1 mono block amp and hook it up to a JL audio 13w7! So was wondering if my car would handle that with a stock alternator and battery. That is 1000rms and add another 300rms for my 4 channel amp powering my door speakers! So let me know If I am good to go, or do I have a brick in my path? Help is greatly appreciated ohh an Happy holidays guys!
p.s I am not doing competions or anything of that sort, plus i doubt i will ever play the sub at full potential, well maybe for a split second!
#4
Originally Posted by bigmike8771
A deep cycle battery wont hurt
Also I had 2 rockford P3's without a cap and when i cranked it up, the light dimmed a little. So do I need a cap or not? And what does the deep cycle battery do?
for the record i dont play audio with my car off. so do i still need a deep cycle?
also i just went to crutchfield and did their little program. This is what it said.
"Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.
To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw."
So I got 44 current total with a 110amp alternator, my 300 watt rms amp used up 14 of those so i have 30 left and this setup with the 1000rms amp needs 48 volts total, so i am short 18??? I think i am getting in over my head here! lol
#6
Originally Posted by nismos14
You'll be fine put it in. Clean all your grounds and skip the cap. The battery isn't a bad idea.
Bought the amp. However I am willing to give the 12" Alpine X a try but am leaning towards the 13w7, anyone think i should buy the X instead?
which battery is the deep cycle, yellow or red or blue, and is there a good place to buy one?
#7
The previous owner of my car put in a decent exide battery and I took it to NAPA and got a replacement. The battery wasn't holding a charge due to its age. Well, I asked about upgrading to a Gel type (Optima) and they hooked me up with an Exide Orbital for around $70. So far I'm in love with the battery. Plus there is a 2 year warranty on it as well ;-)
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
#8
Originally Posted by Memphis2k1
The previous owner of my car put in a decent exide battery and I took it to NAPA and got a replacement. The battery wasn't holding a charge due to its age. Well, I asked about upgrading to a Gel type (Optima) and they hooked me up with an Exide Orbital for around $70. So far I'm in love with the battery. Plus there is a 2 year warranty on it as well ;-)
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
#10
Originally Posted by Memphis2k1
The previous owner of my car put in a decent exide battery and I took it to NAPA and got a replacement. The battery wasn't holding a charge due to its age. Well, I asked about upgrading to a Gel type (Optima) and they hooked me up with an Exide Orbital for around $70. So far I'm in love with the battery. Plus there is a 2 year warranty on it as well ;-)
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
I have two alpine amps, around 800 watts RMS and no lights dimming etc. I noticed you were looking at a JL sub so a thumbs up for JL. I just bought a 12 W6v2 and building a sealed enclosure tonight.
JL is the way to go.
#14
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 508
ive had the same setup (12w7 with 1000/1) in the past and youll be fine but you will dim and pull a nice amount of power from the alt/battery.... i had a red top in the front with 2ga running to the back for that setup and still dimmed... it was a very loud setup and sounded good enjoy it
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