Can I dampen her up now and iron out the door dings later?
Can I dampen her up now and iron out the door dings later?
Curious to know if dampening material will inhibit or prevent Paintless Dent Remover guys from popping or massaging out the dings in my doors. I haven't dampened up the rig yet, but have about 90 sq. ft of Cascade VB2 on it's way and have a mad hankerin to before I get some new comps.
Logic tells me to get the dings out first, because they might have to peel it off to get at them (thus ruining the adhesiveness of the dampener), but not knowing how they go about it, and wishfully thinking that they could get at them without peeling it off, I figured I'd ask. I also thought I'd ask because because using the $99 a panel rule, it's gonna cost me 400 bucks to get them all out, postponing my ability to get a new amp for the new comps, rendering them useless till I do.
It'd be a shame to have to wait to get my system going, but it'd be a bigger shame to have to peel the dampener off and ruin it if it's the only way to get at the dings. So......would anyone know if PDR guys can iron out dings with dampener on the doors? Can it be put back on if it is peeled off? I reckon I could get the dings out first, but dag gum, I want a system in my car bad! It's been way too long. Anyway.......what do y'all think?
Thanks for any help or insights you can provide me with.
Logic tells me to get the dings out first, because they might have to peel it off to get at them (thus ruining the adhesiveness of the dampener), but not knowing how they go about it, and wishfully thinking that they could get at them without peeling it off, I figured I'd ask. I also thought I'd ask because because using the $99 a panel rule, it's gonna cost me 400 bucks to get them all out, postponing my ability to get a new amp for the new comps, rendering them useless till I do.
It'd be a shame to have to wait to get my system going, but it'd be a bigger shame to have to peel the dampener off and ruin it if it's the only way to get at the dings. So......would anyone know if PDR guys can iron out dings with dampener on the doors? Can it be put back on if it is peeled off? I reckon I could get the dings out first, but dag gum, I want a system in my car bad! It's been way too long. Anyway.......what do y'all think?
Thanks for any help or insights you can provide me with.
Most likely it wont be in their way, but depending on the extensiveness of the dents...it may try to 'stretch' the deadening. Not rendering it useless, but leaving a few empty spots. Overall I dont think it would cause a huge problem..
Aye. Good news then. A dampening I will go. A component and amp shopping I will go too. Got a good bit of cheddar for Christmas and it's burning a hole in my pocket.
And well, since I've got you here, I wanted to get your opinion on which components to get. The Rainbow Profi's or the Profi Kicks. Or perhaps another set in that price range if they are comparable. I'm a metal/rock kinda guy and think that the Kicks would be right up my alley, but fear that they might be a bit too much, punch and door rattling wise. Course on the other hand, I have a fear that if I get the standard midbass ones, I'll have a knawing feeling that I shoulda gotten the kicks instead. Your thoughts? Which ones would you recommend?
And well, since I've got you here, I wanted to get your opinion on which components to get. The Rainbow Profi's or the Profi Kicks. Or perhaps another set in that price range if they are comparable. I'm a metal/rock kinda guy and think that the Kicks would be right up my alley, but fear that they might be a bit too much, punch and door rattling wise. Course on the other hand, I have a fear that if I get the standard midbass ones, I'll have a knawing feeling that I shoulda gotten the kicks instead. Your thoughts? Which ones would you recommend?
The standard Profis will do more damage than most other competiors out there to your shins, going into the kick version will certainly work, but dont be fooled by the others being called 'standard'.
On another note though...due to your listening preferences I would lean more towards the metal coned/hard domed ProfiVanadiums. Just food for thought.
On another note though...due to your listening preferences I would lean more towards the metal coned/hard domed ProfiVanadiums. Just food for thought.
Vanadiums eh. Hmmmm. I tend to favor the warm side, so how would they compare the natural fiber and silk of the Profi's? I do like a good bit of detail, but I fear that the aluminum Vanadiums will have me bleeding through the ears and eyes. A slight exageration of course, but me no likey bright tweets.
I also fear that I wont have the tuning ability or the goods to get em tuned the way they deserve to be. I also need to get an amp for em too. I got a good bit of cash, but not a ton, so if I can knock both out at once and hit the ground running with a good solid setup, then bingo bango, I ****** doneo.
I also fear that I wont have the tuning ability or the goods to get em tuned the way they deserve to be. I also need to get an amp for em too. I got a good bit of cash, but not a ton, so if I can knock both out at once and hit the ground running with a good solid setup, then bingo bango, I ****** doneo.
Wow I was just thinking about this yesterday since I'll be putting in some new speakers soon and have a bunch of dings on my car...
Does it have to be only rainbow speakers? don has a fine assortment of brands that he'll be sure to match you up with.
Does it have to be only rainbow speakers? don has a fine assortment of brands that he'll be sure to match you up with.
I am certainly open to any and all suggestions. I was probably just assuming that the cost/performance benefits of the Rainbows couldn't be touched by any other manufacturer. With that being said, if there are any other speakers that can compare to the Rainbows cost wise and sound wise, I'd love to hear about em.
I've heard good things about SEAS, DLS and a slew of others, but not having personally heard them (haven't heard the Rainbows either btw), or know how much they cost, it's hard to compare and contrast them. With that, I'm going on what folks recommend or have personal experiences with. A tough way to choose speakers I know, but it's hard to find speakers worth a turd around town to audition. So..........
Don: Are there any speakers in that price range that can compare?
burnurass: What kind of comps are you rolling with?
I've heard good things about SEAS, DLS and a slew of others, but not having personally heard them (haven't heard the Rainbows either btw), or know how much they cost, it's hard to compare and contrast them. With that, I'm going on what folks recommend or have personal experiences with. A tough way to choose speakers I know, but it's hard to find speakers worth a turd around town to audition. So..........
Don: Are there any speakers in that price range that can compare?
burnurass: What kind of comps are you rolling with?
Originally Posted by burnurass
Right now DLS UP6 2 way components.
Soon to throw in DLS Iridium 8.3 3way components with an 8" midbass
Soon to throw in DLS Iridium 8.3 3way components with an 8" midbass

Originally Posted by VTonmymind
Ah, DLS, very good then. I'll have to explore those as well.
The DLS stuff in general sounds very smooth and warm. Even the amps give out that type of sound (comparing manny's dls a7's and his ARC SE's).
I'm sure don would be happy to guide you the right way as he always does.
I've actually had the opportunity to listen to the DLS Iridium 8.3's. A man named Eddie deJesus owns a shop around my area, and I got to sample his 300C (I wish I got to sample his S-10). Excellent speakers! Very natural, good extension, a quality piece.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
REDinLV
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
5
Aug 15, 2024 12:30 AM
trsandrew
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
17
Apr 8, 2016 06:45 PM
magiconthetire
Audio and Electronics
2
Oct 26, 2015 09:03 PM
trsandrew
Group Deals / Sponsors Forum
2
Oct 25, 2015 02:47 PM




