A good place to mount amps
Originally Posted by burnurass
we need pics of multiple mono amp setup. I'm curious where you put all the amps. 
Good thread to read - http://www.elitecaraudio.com/forums/...8&pagenumber=5
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by mendon99
so do we need a cap for each amp too? thats a lot of FARRRRAAAAADDS!
Honestly, with a multiple amp setup all you need is a single Capacitor, in the range of a Half a farad. Anyone who has ever taken an entry level EE course knows that a standard farad is a huge amount of storage capacity. A half Farad is more than sufficient for a 1000 watt system. Remember though, that a capacitor isn't going to anything more than provide clean power... they are not meant to save your alternator. That's just what the idiots at Best Buy and Crutchfield tell you, just like they tell you that watts determine how good and loud your stereo is going to be. Quick recap of Stereo Building, Forget watts, concentrate on the frequency response and the dB loss (should be like +/- 3dB) which means that the response curve is relatively flat. Then look at the sensitivity, most mainstream is in the range of 86-89 dB, this is the loudness factor that your speakers are at 1 watt. All of the components in my system are in the range of 95-100 dB which means you need 10 watts to simply get to my level of loudness at 1 watt, or rather 1000 watts to get to my level when im pumping my max 100 watts.
Personally, my system only amounts to 500 watts. But the dB's are in the range of 140 at max volume from my Kenwood DDX8019.
Headunit Kenwood DDX8019
Equalizer/Signal Conditioner: Boss Audio AVA-1210
Front and Rear Speakers : Clif Designs QX6500C component systems, Rear Tweeters are mounted behind the C pillars
Subwoofer : 1 HiFonics Goliath XX2415 15 inch and 1 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 Inch
Both subs are hooked up in parallel on the amp
Capacitor: Lightning Audio 1/2 Farad
Amp: 3x Soundstorm F850M Mono amps, with right and left channels bridges in series for an 8 Ohm impedance and the subs hooked up in parallel for a 2 Ohm impedance
Wiring: All custom anodized copper, 0 Gauge ground wire from battery to chassis, 4 Gauge grounds from each amp to the frame. 8 Gauge wire from amps to Subs, 12 Gauge wire from amps to component systems from the cross over used flat wire from the crossover to the tweeters and 12 Gauge wire from the crossover to the mid-bass woofer.
From battery to cap 2 Gauge, from cap to amps, custom fuse block with 3 20A fuses and 3x 4 Gauge running from fuse block to amps
The 15 has custom mounted box around the driver side wheel well ( 4.8 Cu Ft) and the 12 is mounted on the Rear Baffle which has been reinforced with 1/2 inch cherry, and damped by weatherstripping along the rear window to reduce rattle.
My Amp setup is located in the spare tire area with a active cooling system based on temperature in the compartment
Total Cost: about 2000
Wow. I honestly think I can retire and becomes a millionaire with those ideas. Or, perhaps there is a SLIGHT rebuttable presumption on your part to prove HOW that BS made it out of your mouth and onto a screen with a straight face. Nevertheless, running different sized subs is about as smart as faking autism to compete in the special olympics, even if you win people still think you're retarded.
Originally Posted by z0dE
I would take a picture of my amp setup but I don't have a camera.
Honestly, with a multiple amp setup all you need is a single Capacitor, in the range of a Half a farad. Anyone who has ever taken an entry level EE course knows that a standard farad is a huge amount of storage capacity. A half Farad is more than sufficient for a 1000 watt system. Remember though, that a capacitor isn't going to anything more than provide clean power... they are not meant to save your alternator. That's just what the idiots at Best Buy and Crutchfield tell you, just like they tell you that watts determine how good and loud your stereo is going to be. Quick recap of Stereo Building, Forget watts, concentrate on the frequency response and the dB loss (should be like +/- 3dB) which means that the response curve is relatively flat. Then look at the sensitivity, most mainstream is in the range of 86-89 dB, this is the loudness factor that your speakers are at 1 watt. All of the components in my system are in the range of 95-100 dB which means you need 10 watts to simply get to my level of loudness at 1 watt, or rather 1000 watts to get to my level when im pumping my max 100 watts.
Personally, my system only amounts to 500 watts. But the dB's are in the range of 140 at max volume from my Kenwood DDX8019.
Headunit Kenwood DDX8019
Equalizer/Signal Conditioner: Boss Audio AVA-1210
Front and Rear Speakers : Clif Designs QX6500C component systems, Rear Tweeters are mounted behind the C pillars
Subwoofer : 1 HiFonics Goliath XX2415 15 inch and 1 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 Inch
Both subs are hooked up in parallel on the amp
Capacitor: Lightning Audio 1/2 Farad
Amp: 3x Soundstorm F850M Mono amps, with right and left channels bridges in series for an 8 Ohm impedance and the subs hooked up in parallel for a 2 Ohm impedance
Wiring: All custom anodized copper, 0 Gauge ground wire from battery to chassis, 4 Gauge grounds from each amp to the frame. 8 Gauge wire from amps to Subs, 12 Gauge wire from amps to component systems from the cross over used flat wire from the crossover to the tweeters and 12 Gauge wire from the crossover to the mid-bass woofer.
From battery to cap 2 Gauge, from cap to amps, custom fuse block with 3 20A fuses and 3x 4 Gauge running from fuse block to amps
The 15 has custom mounted box around the driver side wheel well ( 4.8 Cu Ft) and the 12 is mounted on the Rear Baffle which has been reinforced with 1/2 inch cherry, and damped by weatherstripping along the rear window to reduce rattle.
My Amp setup is located in the spare tire area with a active cooling system based on temperature in the compartment
Total Cost: about 2000
Honestly, with a multiple amp setup all you need is a single Capacitor, in the range of a Half a farad. Anyone who has ever taken an entry level EE course knows that a standard farad is a huge amount of storage capacity. A half Farad is more than sufficient for a 1000 watt system. Remember though, that a capacitor isn't going to anything more than provide clean power... they are not meant to save your alternator. That's just what the idiots at Best Buy and Crutchfield tell you, just like they tell you that watts determine how good and loud your stereo is going to be. Quick recap of Stereo Building, Forget watts, concentrate on the frequency response and the dB loss (should be like +/- 3dB) which means that the response curve is relatively flat. Then look at the sensitivity, most mainstream is in the range of 86-89 dB, this is the loudness factor that your speakers are at 1 watt. All of the components in my system are in the range of 95-100 dB which means you need 10 watts to simply get to my level of loudness at 1 watt, or rather 1000 watts to get to my level when im pumping my max 100 watts.
Personally, my system only amounts to 500 watts. But the dB's are in the range of 140 at max volume from my Kenwood DDX8019.
Headunit Kenwood DDX8019
Equalizer/Signal Conditioner: Boss Audio AVA-1210
Front and Rear Speakers : Clif Designs QX6500C component systems, Rear Tweeters are mounted behind the C pillars
Subwoofer : 1 HiFonics Goliath XX2415 15 inch and 1 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 Inch
Both subs are hooked up in parallel on the amp
Capacitor: Lightning Audio 1/2 Farad
Amp: 3x Soundstorm F850M Mono amps, with right and left channels bridges in series for an 8 Ohm impedance and the subs hooked up in parallel for a 2 Ohm impedance
Wiring: All custom anodized copper, 0 Gauge ground wire from battery to chassis, 4 Gauge grounds from each amp to the frame. 8 Gauge wire from amps to Subs, 12 Gauge wire from amps to component systems from the cross over used flat wire from the crossover to the tweeters and 12 Gauge wire from the crossover to the mid-bass woofer.
From battery to cap 2 Gauge, from cap to amps, custom fuse block with 3 20A fuses and 3x 4 Gauge running from fuse block to amps
The 15 has custom mounted box around the driver side wheel well ( 4.8 Cu Ft) and the 12 is mounted on the Rear Baffle which has been reinforced with 1/2 inch cherry, and damped by weatherstripping along the rear window to reduce rattle.
My Amp setup is located in the spare tire area with a active cooling system based on temperature in the compartment
Total Cost: about 2000
Your using a 'bridged' mono amp? Funny thought the term mono meant ONE, Please explain how your bridging a single source.
The lineup - Only thing halfway decent is the HU at best.
a 12 and a 15 .. no comment.
Total cost: thats alot to waste.
Originally Posted by nismos14
Rear tweeters in the C-pillars ftw, 
Originally Posted by burnurass
ooh!!! if anyone wants that I have c pillars already cut for tweets they can have for free!!!!! Previous-previous owner of my car did that...lol...previous owner replace with new ones but kept them around.
Oh !! I so want that !
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
my box is secured down. If you're looking for an idea for your trunk, here's one:
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Those 6-inch long 2x4 blocks are screwed into the trunk floor, then the shelf is screwed to the blocks.
How deep did you penetrate the vahzin, I mean trunk floor?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by slickrick
Wow. I honestly think I can retire and becomes a millionaire with those ideas. Or, perhaps there is a SLIGHT rebuttable presumption on your part to prove HOW that BS made it out of your mouth and onto a screen with a straight face. Nevertheless, running different sized subs is about as smart as faking autism to compete in the special olympics, even if you win people still think you're retarded.
Yeah, well I'm not the guy that spends most of my day thinking of ways to rice out my maxima with clear altezza's and fart cannons.
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
Originally Posted by z0dE
Yeah, well I'm not the guy that spends most of my day thinking of ways to rice out my maxima with clear altezza's and fart cannons.
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
Also none of us would purchase bose equipment either, you think you're the only one that knows something?
A good percentage of us also don't run DLS or any other "fanboy" setups. We're also all entitled to our own opinions, if you feel like our opinions on your equipment are harsh thats fine, but thats no reason to attack all of us. We made our opinions made as you did and we're all entitled to them.
Most of us know about IB and THD, but what do we have to proove to you? Nothing.
Originally Posted by nismos14
First off you and none of us in here rice out our cars. None of us have fat cans and whatever gave you that idea is wrong.
Also none of us would purchase bose equipment either, you think you're the only one that knows something?
A good percentage of us also don't run DLS or any other "fanboy" setups. We're also all entitled to our own opinions, if you feel like our opinions on your equipment are harsh thats fine, but thats no reason to attack all of us. We made our opinions made as you did and we're all entitled to them.
Most of us know about IB and THD, but what do we have to proove to you? Nothing.
Also none of us would purchase bose equipment either, you think you're the only one that knows something?
A good percentage of us also don't run DLS or any other "fanboy" setups. We're also all entitled to our own opinions, if you feel like our opinions on your equipment are harsh thats fine, but thats no reason to attack all of us. We made our opinions made as you did and we're all entitled to them.
Most of us know about IB and THD, but what do we have to proove to you? Nothing.
TO THE OP:
Have you heard any DLS stuff? Most likely not. it's not the BEST stuff out there but I like it so that's what matters just like YOU like your setup. We're just curious on how it's going to sound/look with so many different things going on. Is that so bad?
Originally Posted by z0dE
Yeah, well I'm not the guy that spends most of my day thinking of ways to rice out my maxima with clear altezza's and fart cannons.
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
Both a 15 and a 12 can get the job done by themselves.
You speak of acoustics,imaging and such, yet you have rear speakers with tweets in the sails? Can we say imaging nightmare. Please tell me the last musical event you attended with the performers Behind you.
No name brands .. Boss Audio and Soundstorm are two of those, in which case you use both.
You want to test me, but cant answer my initial questions? Good try, I need to prove nothing to you about my place in this industry.
SPL meter doesnt measure your response, just your output. Again ..nice try. Although I do own and use an AudioControl SA-3055 which is an RTA and SPL meter, just in case that name was too 'fanboyed' for you.
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/pr...52&l1=5252&l2=
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/pr...52&l1=5252&l2=
Your attitude here is neither welcomed nor appreciated, take it down a notch if you actually want some help. Otherwise move along.
Originally Posted by THX
I'm always afraid of hitting something if I do that. How deep did you penetrate the vahzin, I mean trunk floor?
How deep did you penetrate the vahzin, I mean trunk floor?
Originally Posted by z0dE
Yeah, well I'm not the guy that spends most of my day thinking of ways to rice out my maxima with clear altezza's and fart cannons.
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
And the fact that i use a 15 and a 12. The 12 is good for impact noises and the 15 is good for sustained LFE.
Go waste your money on DLS 10000 watt sub's FTW or better yet, go waste more money on horrid equipment. You are the types of people who would go out and buy a Bose (read blows) system for their High end Sony TV (read overpriced). When the thing is RBH and Axiom Audio sound better and cost less... But you think those tiny little sattelites sounds soo good though. For good quality sound, you need space and there is no getting around that. When someone proves the laws of physics and acoustics wrong, come find me as i will personally fund your discovery. The thing is, most mobile audio is overpriced with the exception of the no-name brands, thats when you get good response curves and exceptional loudness, not distortion or bottoming out. If one person in this thread can explain to me what an IB is and how it works... And also what THD is and how this affects your amp and HU choice. I can't take any of you seriously as very few if any even own a SPL meter or something that would accurately measure soundstage.
Wow, no fanboys here...
edit: Additionally, my max is bone stock externally except tint...but I guarantee its faster than yours too without any odd bathroom sounding noises.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 536
ps. Having every speaker size would be ideal... but then its all messed up because you have to set the range the subs works in (frequency)
If you did **** loads of research on your equipment and on your stereo "tunning" I believe a 10 , 12 and 15 would produce the best range of beats for your ears.
If you did **** loads of research on your equipment and on your stereo "tunning" I believe a 10 , 12 and 15 would produce the best range of beats for your ears.