So i installed Polk DB6500's and DB650's (rear) today, managed to snap a few pics
So here it goes

INSTALLING REARS; THE EASY

1. Start by taking of the doors.




2. Rear bose speaker is a 5.25 attached to a protective plastic piece. unscrew speaker and disconnect



--- you will have this left, now remove the white piece, its held by three screws

 

3. The new 6.5" polk met some resitance from white piece, the trim on top did not alow the speaker to fully submerge so a trimming had to be made


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4. Attach the new speaker, if it comes with the foam padding, place it between speaker and the white piece



5. Easy as cake, make sure evrything works and remember to put all plugs back in their respective places, put door back on and your ready to get crackin with the fronts

 

THE FRONTS

1. Refer to step 1 in rear doors and remove front door panel.
2. Remove the A-Pillar, its help by to clips





Here we see the pathetic stock tweeter...i had to put on my grandmothers glasses to see that it was a tweeter and not a glued on dime

 

Comparrison of OLD and NEW Polks



and the Tweeters



NOTE; be carefull not to damage the tweeter in removing the grill, i got into a liitle rush and ended up poking the tweeter, thank godness no performance damage

 

3. Installing new tweeters; since their is no way to use the stock mount for the new tweeter i had to improvise with some industrial velcro. Yes, its ghetto; how well it will hold up i will have to wait and see. After install i took it out for a drive and did not notice any rattles coming from either side.

The cable I ran the new cable throught the weather stripping. peel it back, insert new wire, put it back.





I tried to see if i could run the wire through the rubber protector that runs all the stock wire from cabin to door, however i found that their is not 1 cm of space for the new wire. I ended up using rubber heat shrink to cover the exposed wire between the weather stripping and the part were it enters the door



4. You CAN however, feed the tweeter wire through the door side of the rubber protector and fish it out of the other side
NOTE: carefull not to allow the wire to interfere with teh operartion of the window rail.

I forgot to take some pics but you can get the idea of were the wire should run to. Also note the location of the Crossover. It is securely ziptied and did nt seem to make any noise during install or during the test drive, hopefully it will hold up and wont need to be relocated. Their were no fitment problems during re-installation of the door panel

 

5. Here is another view of were the new wires go through.



6. Woofer install

The stock fronts seem to be 6.75" because i had to use the brackets supplied from crutchfield. Attaching brackets to the white bezel is straight froward. I used the foam spacer between the bracket and the speaker

 

7. Again make sure everything works before re- instaling everything.

Additional Notes;

I. The stock signal goinng to the woofers was used for the cross-over.
II. Time to complete both front and rears was about 5 hours, includes taking pictures and figuring out best way to run all the wires. I had the most trouble finding a way to route the new tweeter wire. After figuring out one side, the other one was a piece of cake.

Constructive critisism is welcome

Anyways, i hope this helps someone

Have a good night everyone

 

Nice write up!!! I needed that about a year ago. This should help many to come.

 

Wow. This is actually why I joined this site. Had a strange thing happen, all speakers blew or stopped responding, except the tweaters in the whindshield thing. So decided I'd do it myself.


With this guide I have all the confidence to do so now thanks man

 

Looks good, nice writeup.

 

NVM... job's done. Hello Alpine components! w00t w00t

thanx for the write-up 415

 

decent job.

It is possible to run the wires through the molex plug, however you have to drill holes.

the stock tweeter location in the 5th gens isn't the best for proper imaging, they'd be better off flushmounted in the doors like the 4th gen.

making some MDF rings for the 6.5s would be better than the stock plastic rings, and while you're in there, you might as well deaden the doors... do it right the first time!

great job, keep it up

 

Wow. Motion for immediate sticky. This is the biggest contribution I've seen in a long time to this forum. Excellent job

 

Question. When ordering from Crutchfield, they state " speaker adapter bracket is required, and it's included free with your speaker purchase." is that the white piece you had to shave down?

I'm pretty new to the do it yourself audio stuff, sorry if it's a newb question

 

My 4th g tweets were in the A's

 

why? why not just put them where the stock location was?

 

That was the stock location.

 

in a 4th gen?

that sucks.

 

Yep. Wasn't so bad, good off axis response on the tweets I used.

 

Today I notice that when I roll the driver side window down all the way there's a thumping noise and then all the speakers go silent.

When I was doing the installation I had a problem with the magnet of the woofer sticking to the door and causing the same problem. I fixed that issue by the way I secured it, but why would it re-surface when the window is rolled down? Anyone had this issue and how did you fix it?

 

I just bought a 01 SE, witout bose. I have 2 sets of Boston Pro components I want to install. You said you got brackets from Crutchfield with your speakers. Has anyone done this install with the nonbose stereo, and with speakers that didnt come with brackets? Thanks

 

Kudos on searching, and not digging up a thread that was 5 years old.

In the 5th gen, it doesn't matter if you have Bose or non-Bose. The installation procedure is the same, the speaker sizes are the same. If you don't get spacer brackets from Crutchfield (which have to be purchased btw, they don't just come with the speakers), then just make 3/4" thick MDF rings as your spacers.

 

thanks for your help

 

3/4" thick? wow..thats pretty beefy. I have to do the same to my car soon. I'll let you know how it works out

 

3/4" is pretty standard actually.

 

Great writeup and great timing, I'm going to be doing the same as you in a couple weeks. Good to know in advance I may need to do some trimming in the back since I got 6.5" for both front and rear.

 

Very nice write up.

 

Nice job!

 

Question: how do you get the A pillar off?

 

Get your fingers under it (at the top where it meets the headliner) and pull firmly. It's only held in by clips, then can be lifted out on the bottom.

 

So from the headliner, do I pull straight back or sorta up and back? Just being curious cause I don't want to break any clips or whatnot.

 

Straight back, pop the clips outward, then lift it out to get the bottom out of the dashboard.

 

I have. Go down to the dealership and purchase the bose speaker brackets for about $15 each. Then your speakers will easily mount on those without the need for spacers. Made the install cake.

 

I'm guessing he's probably already had them installed since he posted that 2 years ago.

 

I stumbled across this thread while doing some searching...
I just recently acquired an '02 Maxima (non-Bose), looking to definitely upgrade the audio and the pics here helped out greatly.

My question is, the factory wires for the factory tweeter, they eventually meet back up with the overall wire harness, but where? Is it far under the dash that you can't get to it or is it close by the radio connector end of the harness?

The reason I ask is that I would like to avoid having to run additional wires up to the tweeter area and just piggy back onto the factory wires.

Thanks for any insight anyone can shed.

 

Run the extra wire. It's REALLY easy to slip them right under the rubber door trim down to the kick panel area.

 

I will try this, thanks!

 

Waste of time and money. Make rings out of MDF. Cheaper and better sound quality. Also, more versatile.

 

Finally had some free time to actually start to do an install...
In any event I did a slightly different approach...
I replaced the tweeters similar to what is shown in the pics although I had to use double-sided 3m squares. I ran the tweeter speaker wire down through the opening over to where the headunit, main wire harness is...I placed the crossover over in some empty area behind the headunit, used the existing wire harness (which runs to the woofer in the door) to run the "low" out of the crossover and then used the new wires from the tweeter into the "high" of the crossover. This way I didn't have to store the crossover in the door and I didn't have to try and snake the tweeter wire into the door.

Just an alternative I'd thought I'd share.

 

so it IS possible to replace the tweeter and maintain stock appearance...awesome