Alpine sub hookup
07-30-2007, 10:17 PM
#1
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Alpine sub hookup
I was going to ask a question about how to best wire my alpine swr-1222d to my RF, but I guess the point is mute since I now want to have two of those subs. The problem is I need a sub I can run at 2 ohms in order to be able to power both of them with my RF.
In short, does anybody have an Alpine swr-1242d they'd be willing to trade for the 1222d version
In short, does anybody have an Alpine swr-1242d they'd be willing to trade for the 1222d version
07-31-2007, 05:49 AM
#2
I don't think anyone here runs Type-R's. You may have better luck over at www.caraudio.com
Indeed.
07-31-2007, 01:28 PM
#6
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Posts: 187
Originally Posted by rvaladez34
I was going to ask a question about how to best wire my alpine swr-1222d to my RF, but I guess the point is mute since I now want to have two of those subs. The problem is I need a sub I can run at 2 ohms in order to be able to power both of them with my RF.
In short, does anybody have an Alpine swr-1242d they'd be willing to trade for the 1222d version
In short, does anybody have an Alpine swr-1242d they'd be willing to trade for the 1222d version
07-31-2007, 05:58 PM
#11
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First things first. Seeing as how Robert saw fit to answer my question with an attempt to correct my grammar, I think it's only fit to offer a rebuttal. Mute (I'm pretty sure) comes from a Latin word that means dumb, and can still be used in that context, (see my first comment). Given the context, usage of the word is completely valid in how I used it. Furthermore, mute is not a button on your TV's remote control, the mute button is. Now, that "mute," usage has been settled, I'll try to get back to my issue.
jrpaytonAlpha- how old are the subs? any damage, superficial or internal?
I have a RF 750s. I don't have the certificate anymore, but if I remember correctly, the amp was rated at least 925+ Watts rms at 2 Ohms. I'm running the sub at 4 ohms right now, but that means I have to bridge the channels and set the gain low to get the best out of my sub without popping it.
I wanted two subs for the extra bump, and should be able to run two at 2 ohms. The type r's are not too expensive and can really bump. they're the best bang for the buck, literally. I'm also gonna look into porting my enclosure. I have a sealed enclosure that i made, but the one i made for my brother sounds a lot better
jrpaytonAlpha- how old are the subs? any damage, superficial or internal?
I have a RF 750s. I don't have the certificate anymore, but if I remember correctly, the amp was rated at least 925+ Watts rms at 2 Ohms. I'm running the sub at 4 ohms right now, but that means I have to bridge the channels and set the gain low to get the best out of my sub without popping it.
I wanted two subs for the extra bump, and should be able to run two at 2 ohms. The type r's are not too expensive and can really bump. they're the best bang for the buck, literally. I'm also gonna look into porting my enclosure. I have a sealed enclosure that i made, but the one i made for my brother sounds a lot better
07-31-2007, 06:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by rvaladez34
First things first. Seeing as how Robert saw fit to answer my question with an attempt to correct my grammar, I think it's only fit to offer a rebuttal. Mute (I'm pretty sure) comes from a Latin word that means dumb, and can still be used in that context, (see my first comment). Given the context, usage of the word is completely valid in how I used it. Furthermore, mute is not a button on your TV's remote control, the mute button is. Now, that "mute," usage has been settled, I'll try to get back to my issue.
jrpaytonAlpha- how old are the subs? any damage, superficial or internal?
I have a RF 750s. I don't have the certificate anymore, but if I remember correctly, the amp was rated at least 925+ Watts rms at 2 Ohms. I'm running the sub at 4 ohms right now, but that means I have to bridge the channels and set the gain low to get the best out of my sub without popping it.
I wanted two subs for the extra bump, and should be able to run two at 2 ohms. The type r's are not too expensive and can really bump. they're the best bang for the buck, literally. I'm also gonna look into porting my enclosure. I have a sealed enclosure that i made, but the one i made for my brother sounds a lot better
jrpaytonAlpha- how old are the subs? any damage, superficial or internal?
I have a RF 750s. I don't have the certificate anymore, but if I remember correctly, the amp was rated at least 925+ Watts rms at 2 Ohms. I'm running the sub at 4 ohms right now, but that means I have to bridge the channels and set the gain low to get the best out of my sub without popping it.
I wanted two subs for the extra bump, and should be able to run two at 2 ohms. The type r's are not too expensive and can really bump. they're the best bang for the buck, literally. I'm also gonna look into porting my enclosure. I have a sealed enclosure that i made, but the one i made for my brother sounds a lot better
08-01-2007, 06:19 AM
#14
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Posts: 187
Originally Posted by rvaladez34
jrpaytonAlpha- how old are the subs? any damage, superficial or internal?
I purchased them March of '06. I had them in my other car for about a month. I blew the first box I had made so I switched to one sub in the trunk sending 1000rms(responsibly) to it. I'm using the other R in a ghetto fashion as my home theater sub after my original sub failed. Sending ~350rms to it.
Even if you got another one from me, you would have to upgrade your amp though.
08-01-2007, 06:41 AM
#15
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Posts: 265
Originally Posted by rvaladez34
First things first. Seeing as how Robert saw fit to answer my question with an attempt to correct my grammar,.....
But you got a free bump and some answers.And if you are willing to look at internet only brands, then there are dozens of options for subs.
-Robert
08-01-2007, 06:57 PM
#16
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1000 watts rms? what sub is this? not the type r, you would have popped that easy. it's rated for 200-500 rms. even with the gain and bass low a spike would kill the sub. what do you mean by responsibly? I'm pretty sure my amp could drive the subs. i put in my brother's once, so i had two type rs, and even at 4 ohms i got a decent bump from them, so at 2 ohms it should be right around where it should be.
I may have to sell the sub and get two new ones. anyone interested?
also, when a volume is called out for an enclosure, is that with the sub in it, or is that for the volume of free air?
08-02-2007, 07:06 AM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
Originally Posted by rvaladez34
1000 watts rms? what sub is this? not the type r, you would have popped that easy. it's rated for 200-500 rms. even with the gain and bass low a spike would kill the sub. what do you mean by responsibly? I'm pretty sure my amp could drive the subs. i put in my brother's once, so i had two type rs, and even at 4 ohms i got a decent bump from them, so at 2 ohms it should be right around where it should be.
I may have to sell the sub and get two new ones. anyone interested?
also, when a volume is called out for an enclosure, is that with the sub in it, or is that for the volume of free air?
I knew someone that had a Orion 2500 D @ 1ohm on two Type R's, but that's a little excessive to me. However, you can drive those subs on 1000rms daily. Don't take my word for it, you can see for yourself.
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos.html
08-09-2007, 10:07 AM
#19
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I have 2 type r's 12' hooked up to a 1000bd RF amp, i get a good bump out of them with gain 66% up. I used to run Punch HX'2s they hit harder but the type r's overall are better sounding. i have them wired to 2 ohms.
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