TWINTRBO

I just installed a Hornet 569T remote starter in my Max and Im having trouble with it. Its default set for voltage sensing, but it starts, then shuts it down and tries again this time hanging the starter while its running. I want to try the tach signal option but I cant seem to get the unit to "read" the signal and Im not sure I have the right wire. I think its the light green with black stripe according to the FSM, but it reads 14v when its running and I think thats high for the tach signal at the ECCS. Anyone? Bueller?

TWINTRBO

Update, I did have it wired wrong but it still does the same thing. I hooked up the second ignition output to the second starter wire by accident not reading thoroughly. I hooked it up using a relay instead to the other starter wire but it did the same thing (kind of wonder why the relay is necessary, why not just use a jumper? Unless it overloads the wiring....?) So I got annoyed with grinding the hell out of the starter and disconnected the second starter wire, it still starts and does the same thing, I thought it wont start without both being powered? Im hoping its something else Im missing and not just that the starter is not compatible.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

The relay is used to isolate both starter wires. One is a "cold start" wire, IIRC. I'm kinda curious as to why did you go to the ECCS for your tach sense? Why not go to the ECM? As for the wire color itself, I'm not sure off the top of my head.
Another question... are you reading your tach using the DC or AC voltage setting on your DMM? Cuz it sounds like you're using DC. No way you'll get any kind of an acurate reading like that.

TWINTRBO

Not sure what IIAC means but I still wonder what isolating them does, since they are pulsed at the same time and for the same duration, but I can accept that at some point it was deemed necessary to do so. As far as I know the ECM is the ECCS, just different names, its right on top of the console next to the gas pedal, right? And lastly, yet another error I made after reading the install manual, the reading Im looking for is AC not DC, so I wonder what I hooked it up to?! This is a huge lesson to myself, I was running against the clock rushing to get it in without properly figuring out what I was doing and made some huge errors on the way. I hope that tomorrow I can get the tach signal wire hooked up and this whole nightmare will go away. Where is Craig Brace when you need him? lol

whitemax89

Hello
I have the same problem when i dont start the car for couple of hours and the auto start it the car starts and the starter is still running or it would try to start then it would try to start again and when it does the starter is still running. I went to my electrician after replacing 2 starters one OEM and one aftermarket he connected another sensor and he says it should happen again. Then again in the morning i did auto start and its still there the starter is running while the car is on. I went to him he told me out of like million ppl i am the only one with this problem. I also heard a story happening to a brand new car and it was the alarm system it self which was defected. No clue i am thinking of donating my car and i am not sure if i want to take my alarm with auto start of because i dont want the same thing happening to my next car. by the way i have prestige alarm. So i learned how not to auto start and live with it. Its hard but i dont think i want to be spending 200 for starters and also my mechanic said i f uped my flywheel i have an auto matic and to replace it would be $400 labor plus auto flywheel or w.e. u call where the starter turn that thing. SO yea thats my story.

TWINTRBO

I can tell you its not your starter or the car, its the prestige alarm. Im not sure whats going on with mine yet but it seems it doesn't know the engine is running. It has a pit stop mode that lets the car run without the keys in it, but when I try to activate, it tries to start again. Obviously the brain isn't getting the right signal, unfortunately its snowing here so when that dries up I will attempt a tach wire tie-in, hopefully that sorts it out.

Tquick

You can use a fuel injector lead for the tach I believe, that is how my system was set up, and it worked fine.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Injector will work fine, look for the 'odd' wire.

TWINTRBO

Odd? Is that under the hood, or at the ECU? And what makes it different? Is it colored or different size, not being a jerk, but odd doesn't really help me too much.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

The color that is different from the other commons.

TWINTRBO

Ok, just looked at the FSM and it looks like the harness for the injectors is on the right side of the ecm looking from the drivers door, is that right?

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

dude wtf, just give up. Inexperienced people shouldnt even been attempting a remote start install. Go to the injectors directly under the hood.

TWINTRBO

I just changed what I wrote because I dont need to explain myself to you. I have it hooked up and the car does in fact start itself. Im asking someone to tell me the exact wire I need to hook up mainly because it was snowing out and I have limited time to play around since Im watching my one year old infant most of the day. Tell me which wire under the hood YOU used and I will look at the FSM and find it at the ECU in 3 seconds, hook it up and be done.

TWINTRBO

Oh I get what you mean, you threw me since AC voltage doesn't have a "common" its a "hot" and "neutral". Only DC has a positive and a negative or "common" as you called it. What youre saying is hook it up to the wire that is not Wh/R for cylinders 2,4,6 and not the W/BL or W/G for 1,3,5. Easy enough, thanks.