VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've got my speakers (Rainbow Profi kicks) and an amp (the Audison LRx 4.5) which will be showing up shortly after the holidays (thanks Don!) and I want to get to slapping that stuff in my car as soon as I get back from the holidays and all I need is an amp kit. I'll need some speaker wire too, but I'm having a shop do the install for me and I reckon they'll have plenty laying around (what gauge do you suppose I should ask for?) So.....any recommendations on amp kits?

Stinger seems to be the popular way to go, but which one? 4 gauge, 0 gauge?

Thanks for your inputs.

BigPete

iTrader: (2)

I use a JL Audio 4gauge kit and I love it. I have used Tsunami (circuit city) and Rockford (bestbuy) kits before. Both were good quality kits. With a 4 channel setup I would say 4gauge is more then enough. If you add a sub later on get a nice distro block and a cap.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

i think you kind of have it backwards, the signal wires (speaker, rca) are the ones you should really be focusing on. the shop doing the install will have power wire too, and out of the 2 the signal wires are more important.

i like knukonceptz.com for all your wiring needs.

as far as guage, you can figure it out using the reccomendations in the users manual here:

http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/p...nual_IT_EN.pdf

it will depend on how you are using it (4/3 channel) for power and speaker wire recommendations.

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

True, true, but the install shops that I've been inquiring with are charging an arm and a leg for the kits. I'd prefer to bring in my own kit and save a few clams.

As far as how I will be amping it up, I'll be bridging the 4 channel into 2 giving my speakers 260 x 2.

and thanks for the recommendations and the link. preciate!

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

with 520 watts you could probably get away with less, but i would run a 4 gauge in case of expansion.

amp kit:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

speaker wire:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KAR12SS

these would be my choice for simple/quality.

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again

burnurass

iTrader: (21)

Don didn't sell you an amp kit? what a HORRIBLE SALESMAN!!
But don should be able to hook itup.

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

That's what I like about Don, he doesn't push his wares on you. He listens, tosses his unbiased wisdom on you, waits patiently then hooks it up hard when you're ready. Good stuff. Anyway.....

So....the Knukonceptz stuff looks solid, how bout these Stinger lines?

SWKH0 HPM kit: a zero gauge kit with a 250 amp fuse

SWKH4 HPM: a 4 gauge kit with a 150 amp fuse.

Curious, what kind of benefit will I get from a higher amped fuse and a thicker gauge power wire?

Any discernible difference between the KH0 vs. the KH4 other than price?

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

the fuse should be selected to match your amp. thicker guage wire is going to allow your amp to get the juice it needs.

like i said, you could probably get away with less than 4, but if you run 4 now you will most likely be ok if you expand your system (short of a high power sub). so instead of having to run new wire you could just throw in a disribution block.

i'm wondering why you are wanting to bridge into 2 channels instead of going active, but that may be down the road for you.

i don't think i've ever used stinger, but plenty of people have. the thing is, power wire is power wire (to an extent). fuses are fuses. the place where you want to pay attention is the signal wires and the install. either way stinger should be fine.

links on the stinger kits? i'm lazy and don't feel like searching.

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

Going active sounds quite appealing, especially since it gives me greater tuning ability, and from what I gather, plainly sounds better, but having limited knowledge on the intricacies of it (and having to find someone who knows how to install such a system) has me thinking that this may be a down the road thing for me. I haven't completely ruled out the possibility, but I need to get a little more knowledgeable on the subject first.

Curious though, what exactly do I need to go active? Do I need to ditch the crossovers that came with the Rainbows and get some other, more suitable external crossovers (digital) or will the crossovers in my amp be sufficient enough? (think they'll go high or low enough to go active?) As a side note: I have the Eclipse CD7000 which has a 3 way crossover, so I don't think I'll need another h/u because I'm pretty sure it can do the processing.

Also, knowing that each speaker needs a dedicated channel, do you think that my current amp choice (LRx 4.5 which is rated for 4 x 75) has enough power to run my Profi kicks well enough in active mode or will I want something with a little more juice. Say something more in the 130 x 4 range?

And if I may, (and slaughter me if you like) if I go active, can I still run my rear speakers off the h/u or even amp them with another amp for some rear fill? A no-no for you true enthusiasts about rear fill I know, but I'm thinking solely about the poor bastards who sit in the back of my car. Previous to thoughts of going active, I was going to add a second amp (a 3 channel Xtant) to amp my rears with a modest 25 or 50w and get my sub into the game too. Can I run an active setup in the front, and a passive one in the rear?


Well, sorry for all the questions, but I've become wildly curious about this active business and am trying to get my head around it all.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

i'm not an expert, but i will tell you what i do know:

some head units, some amplifiers, or a sound processor can be used. basically as long as you can high and low pass the signal to each speaker.

75w x 4 should be plenty, with rear fill off the hu. a lot of people say no rear fill or whatever, but it all depends on what you want. i wouldn't bother with more than some quality coax's off the hu in the rear.

i'm actually working on a 5.1 system, but i'll admit it's more for wow factor than anything else. i wouldn't rush into anything, you can go active at any time so take some time and do some research.

VTonmymind

iTrader: (1)

Aye. That's exactly what I'll do, take my time. Start passive giving the front stage 260 x 2, see how that sounds, and go from there when I'm ready. (which was my initial intention)

Thanks for your insights and input again.