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Battery Terminals, digital or not

Old Jan 14, 2008 | 10:02 AM
  #1  
Deckdout2's Avatar
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Battery Terminals, digital or not

Hey you audiophiles

I'm picking up a Yellow Top Optima D35 today and considering replacing my battery terminals and also the +/- cables as well. Do you recommend any specific terminals that are of good quality? I'm going to go with Stinger unless there's others out there that are just as good without the "Stinging" price.

Looking for of course a terminal with an extra 1/0 or 4 gauge spot so I can add a 1/0 or 4 gauge amp wire later on. Should I upgrade the stock cables to a particular gauge wire? If so, what would you go with?

Any good digital terminals out there? Would you recommend it?

Thanks for the info. Doing the research as we speak, but just want to see the opinions out there on this.

Last edited by Deckdout2; Jan 14, 2008 at 05:17 PM.
Old Jan 14, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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the digital stinger terminals seem to be the choice these days. Seen a few .org members using them. Id say its safe to go with them.
Old Jan 14, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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Has anyone upgraded the battery cables on both the +/- sides? I wonder if there's a how-to floating around somewhere that I can follow with the relay and extras on the positive side. Chime in if you'd done this or know an easy route.

I just ordered the Yellow Top D75/25, Stinger SHT301 and SHT302 Digital Battery Terminals. I just need to upgrade my cables now, probably to a 1/0 gauge.
Old Jan 14, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Deckdout2
Has anyone upgraded the battery cables on both the +/- sides? I wonder if there's a how-to floating around somewhere that I can follow with the relay and extras on the positive side. Chime in if you'd done this or know an easy route.

I just ordered the Yellow Top D75/25, Stinger SHT301 and SHT302 Digital Battery Terminals. I just need to upgrade my cables now, probably to a 1/0 gauge.
Digital terminals are just for show, but if want them you can get them. I recommend stinger digital or not. I used to have knukonceptz and they were horrible. Not only do they not grab tightly on to battery posts, but they also corrode pretty bad after a year or two. They picked up more corrosion than my factory terminals. There used to be a how to, but I don't see it on here. You just follow the factory cables and you can leave in the factory cables as well if you want. +Battery to alt, -battery to ground, ground to engine block. You can go an extra step and upgrade to ground for the alt as well.
Old Jan 14, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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Negative cable is very easy to do. Just trace and replace.

Positive requires more work because of the fusible links, which have to stay in line.
Just upgrade your big 3 and you're fine. No need to replace the existing positive wiring.
Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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Sounds good, thanks fellas. I'll tinker with the + side only if I have the time to.
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