I have looked through the whole FORUM, spending hours reading all the threads and replies. There is information to change almost everything. The only thing i haven't seen is how to change a BOSE fact 7 speaker on 2K se with an aftermarket stereo. I mean how is that possible. No one took pics of when they changed their stereo.....Come on ppl!!!! Someone somewhere must have pics,,,ideas,,,,diagrams of how to wire an amp with exxisting fact wires.....

This is how i am feeling right now:

HELP

 

Were you planing on replacing just the headunit and keeping allthe speakers? or what? what are you trying to do?

 

Ok long story short. I blew the darn bose-sub, now i don't want to spend 420 dollars on a new one. So i want to change the head unit with a kenwood kdc-9015, apline eq,,,change all 4 door speakers and put in an alping 5 channel amp and a free air sub, behing the rear seat. I don't want to do any crazy wiring. I just need a diagram or idead on how to wire this without having to run wire to the doors ect. so i would like to know which wires to tap into and where they are

Thanks for your help

 

I've got a 3rd gen maxima...and I know that our Bose systems were a PITA. They ran at a fractional ohrm level, so you couldn't interface the stock speakers with an aftermarket head unit. however...I know there was an interface you could buy that would let you use your aftermarket headunit /w bose speakers, about 40 bones.

I don't know anything about your maxima, but, I would advise...if you've got some electrical ability...to run new wire for all your speakers, that way, you'll have perfect wiring for your headunit/speakers/amps/subs. I ran new 12gauge wire for my rear 6x9s, foward components, and subwoofers. I don't know if this was of any help...maybe I can answer your other questions if you let me know what they are

 

Someone has a post that suggests taping in the wires by the rear sub(which has an amp under it) Apparently the 2k's bose has an amp under the sub. And all the speaker wires come into that amp. What i need is to know which wire is which,,,speaker power remote etc

Thanks

 

Well, To make things easy, you need to strip out the ENTIRE Bose system. HU, Amps, speakers. Then Start From Scratch. Run a new power wire from the battery to the trunk for the 5 channel amp, run 4 new speaker wires under the carpet to the doors, mount new speakers in the stock locations (they are 6.75") and mount a new 8" free-air sub. in all honesty, that is the simplest way to do so. It's always a PITA when dealing with the Bose.While there may be ways to keep some Bose items, and there are converters so you can use aftermarket Hu with the stock speakers, they can be problematic. Good luck!

 

Hey thanks for the information. I will definately take pics and send to the web site. So that ppl like me, who dont know a lot, can watch it.
Thanks again

 

Rip It all out!!! Then drop 50g's and you should be happy jk..anything is possible there's alot of people on here that have upgraded there stereo in alot of different ways.

Check my hompage if you like.

 

whats the address????????

 

Just go ahead and click the button that say's homepage. Under my name.
<---- Yeah thats it

 

hence the expression newbie

 

<---- Yeah thats it

uhhhh yeah awesome......ok how did u do the hide thing to your HU

 

hot damn dude you gotta have spend some seriuos cash on that system(audio i mean)

 

I riped the factory head unit apart ...and rebuilt it into a cover...cut out metel behind the real head unit to sit it back in a little. then the rebuilt face now a cover sits right on very strong just like factory. Since it's a six disk changer i don't have to take the face off...and the head unit is controlled by controls hidden elsewhere.

 

did u take pics when u did it??????

 

Compitition requires that you have pictures of everything you can't see including the building of everything so yes i have pics of everything in a 600 page photo album..but all the building pics are in there not on the computer.

I like the little fire dude you used...how did you do that ive never seen that before?

 

So are you gonna get em on your comp,,and then web-site? i think alot of ppl would like to see how you took off the HU and how you stripped it to do the hide away thing!!

Click on the "smilies GET MORE" and it shows you all of them!!!
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Now someone posted "Our trunks are not sealed anywhere near close to the reqs of the free air sub - go for a box unless you want to build a wall behind the rear seats",,,so y did bose put in a free air?? Will my idea of putting in a 12" behind the seat not work??? I don't want to shake the whole car, or the car next me me. I just want enough bass for me!! Also will i be better off if "Alot of people opt to run component speakers in the front since pillar mounted tweeter raises soundstage from your foot level to not quite your ears but at least close...?????

Hey thanks for your help

 

No i'm not gonna scan that many pictures...it takes way to long for my scanner to do it. And the building pics will never be on the web site. The factory face cover does seem to interest alot of people it's not that hard just time consuming.

NO the trunk in it's current condition is not good enough for a free air sub. Why did bose do it? To make money. It's effective just not as what a better sub would be with the right enviroment. The bose sub does it's job just like the rest of the bose system...not near as good as what the major after market has. If it was that good the car would cost 40g's not 25. If you want to do a single 12" sub free air it can be dun pretty simple. Just build a sub baffle in to the deck making sure that the front is sealed completly from the rear. Remove all panels in the trunk and seal everything up and mat everything so it's acosticly dead. Then get a better rubber seal for the trunk. That basically it. Other than making sure you have a sub that likes free air apps. To check for leaks use colord smoke drop it in the trunk and look for where it leaks out.

Componets are most deffinitly better than coaxials. The piller thing is subjective and depends on the car. I always recomend a 6.5 mid in the kick and a tweeter in the a piller. mid xover at around 60 and up tweet around 3k up and the sub around 80 and down with a 12 db x over on the componets and a 24 db on the sub with that configuation. Now if you opt to have both the tweet and mid together to go 24 db all around. Hope this helps get you going.