djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Hook it up to the remote/amp turn on wire coming out of your HU.

Spyguy

iTrader: (1)

It worked! Thank you.

KilJim

Hi guys, thanks for the guides.

Just fixed a Sony GT700HD in my 2000 I30 and have a couple of questions:
1) Am i supposed to connect both the amp ground and chasis ground to the ground cable from the radio? Using the Metra 7551

2) The radio sounds fine and plenty loud going through the Metra, but i noticed the subwoofer isn't working. Any thoughts as to why?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

1. Yes, grounding it that way should be fine.

2. Might be related to #1?

KilJim

I did it that way in the beginning, still didn't work
I'll mess around a little more, still trying to get those damn screws off the Bose HU for now

So the stock sub gets a signal from the L and R preamps/signals, and not a separate sub out right?

Btw my preamps are rated 2V, but they're plenty loud

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Correct, there's no separate sub out from the Bose HU.

Read the Bose screw thread. TIGHTEN till you hear the screw click, then loosen.

KilJim

Yeah i tried tightening, but didn't work

In the end i used a superglue method to glue a driver head to the screw which worked, on all except for 2 screws because i messed them up beforehand lol

Stagnet04

iTrader: (28)

Wait, one more question. I understand the connecting of the speakers, ground and power wires to the new amp, also the signal wires from the HU to the amp, BUT how do I/where do I actually hook up the new HU main harness? do I still need an adaptor and hook it up to the stock harness? does that make sense?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You need a standard wiring harness to get power from the OEM harness to the aftermarket HU. Metra 70-7550. Also, you need a radio antenna adapter to convert the plug shape of the OEM antenna to the standard shape which the aftermarket HU accepts.

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys. 02 max with Bose, kenwood Kdc-Hd545U HU (rated 2V), 70-7551 adapter. volume goes from 0-35; its silent up to 15; 20-30 sounds clear but not loud; 30-35 louder but very distorted with little bass. I read first few pages here but im still not sure which rout to take. I guess first I need to get the line driver. Anyone have a link of the one to go with? I seen some pac but they have different kinds and im not sure what would work best. Also do i need 2 of them (one for each chanel)? Finally is it possible that my ground is not in the best place and thats why it sounds like crap? I hooked the ground to the dash frame where some harness is screwed down on the left side behind the radio. Any help is appreciated. Greg.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Most people go with the line output converter, though a line driver would also work.

http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearc...converter.html

Likely not a ground issue since you're using an existing ground that's proven to work. 2v simply isn't enough juice.

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

I will give the Scosche SLC4 a try. Thanks, for quick response

Stagnet04

iTrader: (28)

Ahhh, ok cool. That was the last thing that was racking my brain.
Thanks....

Johnhulloway

What kind of amp/addons should I throw into my sound system for an awesome setup? I had to redo all of it(92 max), and for the front door speakers I have Polk Audio DB651 6.5-Inch Coax and for the rear deck I have Boss CH6930 6x9. For my headunit I have a Kenwood KDC-MP142
No amps as of yet, or subs obviously. Recommendations? I would love a good, loud, clear, full range setup.

KilJim

It turns out the sub wasn't working to begin with
Tried putting the Bose HU back in and checked....lol
It just sounded bassier with the Bose HU

Will try the soldering trick to see if that fixes the sub

**Soldering worked, sub is back to life and everything's great!

Didn't need a LOC though i already bought one...lol returning it to Walmart

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

Anyone know if the DLS OA8 sub can be mounted in the rear deck without mods?

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

Also how would a 4ohm speaker perform being powered by the stock bose amp? I'm looking specifically at these speakers :
Phoenix Gold RSd6
* Sensitivity: 88 dB
* RMS Power Range : 5-50 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 100 Watts
* Impedance: 4 Ohm
* Frequency response: 65-20000 Hz

Thanks

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

^^ Don't do it. Bose amp puts out at 2ohm.

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

OK thanks.

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

You think the Bose amp would be able to push these speakers or is it not powerful enough?

CADENCE TXC-6K

6.5" 2 Ohm Woofer
1" High Power ASV Voice Coil
Flush/Angle/Surface Mount Polymide Tweeter Featuring a Blue Laser Style LED
RMS Power: 90
Peak Power: 180
Frequency Response: 70Hz-22KHz
Sensitivity: 93db @ 1W/1M

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Good question. I'd guess that the Bose amp definitely does not put out that much power.

Not many people have really ever replaced the speakers alone, they usually go with a new amp and better speakers at the same time...so there isn't much information about what the Bose amp really does, except that it sucks

BeSeenWithGreen

iTrader: (4)

lol yeah i guess thats all we really need to know in the end

j-dawg

Hey y'all, total car audio noob here.

My sister just bought a '96 that came from the factory with Bose; now it hasn't got anything - speakers in the doors and deck are gone, dunno about the tweeters in the pillars. There's a single-DIN adapter in the dash so I assume an aftermarket system had been installed before we bought it.

My sister doesn't need hella bass or audiophile-quality sound. She likes the stock Bose in my '97. What are her options for a stereo system? I ask because I have to leave town for a few months on Sunday and she wants one by then. Can we just buy an HU and four 6.75" speakers and screw them into place? Do we need a separate amp for that? Most of all, how long does rewiring take, assuming I have to do it? I only have until Saturday evening, and I'll be restricted to what I can find in B&M stores. (I can get Metra harnesses at Frys.)

Sorry to bombard you fine folks with questions; thanks in advance

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Check Crutchfield to pick a deck and speakers based on price and requirements, then go to a local store to buy them.

If all you're doing is running new wire from the HU to each speaker, it'll probably take you a couple hours as all the door panels, rear deck, seat, and door jambs have to be removed.

j-dawg

That doesn't sound too bad.

How about this HU

and two pairs of these speakers

does that setup even make sense at all and would I need anything more besides the harness? (btw which harness should I use I guess I can do some more research and find that out on my own or does it matter if I'm rewiring)

I see the RMS wattage ratings match up; does that mean they'll play nice? Also, will 6.5" spkr fit into the 6.75" Bose speaker hole?

Thanks for all the help btw I have no clue what I'm doing here. I'm totally happy with my factory Bose, thank you very much.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

HU is fine for a budget. Doubt you'll have an issue.

Speaker link doesn't work.

The speaker opening for the Bose speakers is 6.5, not 6.75 - you're fine.

j-dawg

woops it's here

Thanks for all your help, you really cleared things up for me. I'll try and pick up the bits I need tomorrow and will post if I've got more silly newbie questions. Thanks again

DIAMONDS98SE

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced my bose head unit with the Sony WX-GT77UI. I had my friend install it, but he didnt use any bose integration harness, just wired it straight up. Sounds great, looks even better, and now i have a volume **** that actually works!!!

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

I have a question I have searched and searched and can't find the answer I'm looking for. I have a 2002 maxima that doesn't have a bose system so i was looking to upgrade I know the door speakers are 6.5 and I like having trunk space so I would like to place a sub in the rear deck lid where the bose sub would normally go.

How hard would it be?
What size will fit 12in or 10in?
speaker suggestion?
Any modding?


Thanks

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Not THAT difficult but since you don't have a Bose sub now, you'll have to figure something out for a grille in your rear deck.

10inch would be best. Speaker selection I'll defer to others. Modding - something for the grille and possibly some metal trimming of the rear deck depending on the speaker you pick.

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

Thanks

Indighost

Hey newbie here, but before I start I have to say that I've read this ENTIRE thread and djfretyl, you are the frickin' man! Your speedy, informative (and sometimes sarcastic) responses convinced me to join. Keep up the excellent work! Ok, now for my question....I've just purchased a '02 I35 w/bose system. I want to install my JVC NX7000 and put subs in the trunk. That's all, I want to keep the factory speakers. From what I've gathered from this thread I need the dash kit, metra 7551, antenna adapter, which have been purchased...then I get confused. Do I need an LOC or the PAC? Do I need them both? I like the gains on the PAC but I will only will get it if it gives me more volume. What do I need to keep the steering controls and trip/mpg/dte display? Do you know where I can find BOSE radio removal instructions for my vehicle. All of the ones I've found are for Maximas. Help Please. Thanks again to all who has intelligently contributed to this forum!!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Welcome to the forum!

So far, the 3 items you purchased are correct.

Ok, first a quick lesson on what LOC/PAC is. An LOC (line output converter) converts a high level amplified speaker wire to a low level un-amplified RCA connection. You use this when you're tapping an already amplified signal, like at a speaker, to use to convert to RCA, to provide a signal for an aftermarket amplifier.

PAC is a company that makes various installation accessories. They make LOC's and other interfaces, like the steering wheel control module you need, which I'll speak about in a moment.

You actually don't need an LOC. Here's why.

Your JVC head unit is going to have 3 pairs of RCA cables coming out of it (Front, Rear, Sub). They are pre-amplified signals. You will connect the front and rear RCA cables to the 70-7551. This will provide the signal needed for the Bose system for your interior speakers.

Then, you take the subwoofer output RCA's from the JVC, hook them up to an RCA cable, and run them directly to your aftermarket amplifier, which will then power whatever aftermarket subwoofer you choose. Don't forget, you'll need a 4gauge amp install kit which will include a remote turn on wire, power wire, and RCA's for the aftermarket amp.

For your steering wheel controls, you need a PAC SWI-JACK. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SWI-JACK-S.../dp/B000AXU764.

The radio removal is pretty much the same. pop the vents, pop the shifter trim, and go from there.

I'm curious, where are you located?

And if you have any specific questions just respond in this thread or PM me.

Good luck!

Indighost

Dancing Dismantled Dashkits Batman!! djfrestyl has done it again! Thank you man for reals! Just ordered the PAC-SWI, but it has a ton of wires! Do you know if it just plugs into a harness or if there is going to be some tapping involved?....just wondering. Also I did notice in some of the earlier threads that some people had issues with speaker pop/low volume when using the RCA's, I won't have this issue will I? I think some people needed to ground a certain wire to the chassis or something....idk. I live in GA, but believe me, if I were in NJ, I would've payed you a visit! Thanks again for all of your help!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Not all the wires get used in the PAC. In fact usually only a couple of them get used. There are many wires because the kit can be used for multiple different head units. Yes, you'll be tapping/splicing - and using resistors!

The speaker pop is a nuance. It has something to do with the way the HU sends a signal to turn on the amp. Very hard to tell if you'll experience this.

Indighost

resistors?... I guess. Let me pick your brain one more time djfrestyl. I've went back and looked the reviews for the PAC-SWI and everyone has said that it works great, except that there is a irratating delay between the steering wheel and the response from the radio. Sooo I'm kinda reconsidering. Now, my question is, if I don't get the PAC-SWI, I understand that I will lose my volume controls and stuff but will I lose my trip/mpg/dte display as well? I don't wanna lose those in the process. I think that there is a "trick" to doing this by grounding the brown/white wire of the smallest harness but i'm not sure. Any suggestions or insight that I may not be aware of? Thanks again man. Hope I'm not making you repeat yourself.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You're fine, I'm not repeating myself just yet.

Correct, you're going to have to ground a wire in order to retain your trip controls. This is independent of if you want to use your steering controls. If you're ok without the steering wheel controls because you're concerned about the delay, that's fine (its not TERRIBLE, but it definitely ever so slightly present) - but make sure you ground that wire so your other controls retain.

Also just to add, in the Maxima the wire color is brown/yellow. It MIGHT be a different color in your I35.

Indighost

Ok..ok, I'll get the SWI. Besides, it'll preserve the "sexy" of my vehicle. lol. Once again, Thank you.

Switch

I have an 04 Max with the factory Bose. I just had 2 10" Pioneer Premier shallow-mount subs installed in a ProBox box running on my Premier Class D mono 1200 watt amp and it sounds like trash. I can hear the trunk rattling over the bass which is weird. Did the guy tap into the wrong source for the LOC or do I need an aftermarket HU? It sounds better with the seats down but nothing like how it sounded in my 05 crewcab superduty. Im at a loss. Please help me out if possible.

Thanks guys

JB

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Does it sound like 'trash' because of the trunk rattling, or is it actually a poor quality sound? Sounds like the former rather than the latter. Maximas are known for trunk rattle. Try using some deadening on the problem areas then go from there.