I am shopping for an amp.
#1
I am shopping for an amp.
and I need help deciding on what to purchase.
here's the requirments. I CANNOT run anymore than 600watts RMS due to the underdrive crank pulley that I have installed in my 1997.
I have polk audio rm6501 components up front rated at 10-100 watts rms with a max of like 300.
For the rears, I will be running polk audio rm651s 55 watts rms max. I have not picked the deck yet, but am really leaning towards the alpine w505 or the eclipse avn 6620. Both have strong points and are killer decks. I like the idea of the portable navi with the alpine, and the dual drives with the 6620. Full ipod video support with the 505.
I believe that I would like to purchase a 5 channel amp for the simplicity of the install. I don't have any sub(s) yet, but I will probably be adding something simple in the future. I am leaning toward the alpine pdx-5.
But, I like the fact that jlaudio rates their power from like 11.0 volts to 14.5. It's a true 75X4. they don't make a 5 channel that I am aware of. I go this way (jl audio slash series 300/4v2) and if I want to add a sub later, I will need to add another amp right?
Any suggestion or insight would be great.
thanks guys and girls.
here's the requirments. I CANNOT run anymore than 600watts RMS due to the underdrive crank pulley that I have installed in my 1997.
I have polk audio rm6501 components up front rated at 10-100 watts rms with a max of like 300.
For the rears, I will be running polk audio rm651s 55 watts rms max. I have not picked the deck yet, but am really leaning towards the alpine w505 or the eclipse avn 6620. Both have strong points and are killer decks. I like the idea of the portable navi with the alpine, and the dual drives with the 6620. Full ipod video support with the 505.
I believe that I would like to purchase a 5 channel amp for the simplicity of the install. I don't have any sub(s) yet, but I will probably be adding something simple in the future. I am leaning toward the alpine pdx-5.
But, I like the fact that jlaudio rates their power from like 11.0 volts to 14.5. It's a true 75X4. they don't make a 5 channel that I am aware of. I go this way (jl audio slash series 300/4v2) and if I want to add a sub later, I will need to add another amp right?
Any suggestion or insight would be great.
thanks guys and girls.
Last edited by JSMax; 04-21-2008 at 07:36 PM.
#9
If I do this, like you described, will I even be able to hear the rear channels? I mean 75 watts true RMS against what 18 for the rears. I understand that the rears are for fill, but I would like to be able to hear them for the soundstage.
how will this workout? Also, I think that I would like to wire it up only one time and not have to mess around with things later on if I decided to add the sub. So many decisions....
As for budget I'm thinking around 400 us for an amp. the jl is on fleabay right now here and the alpine is here . yeah.
Last edited by JSMax; 04-22-2008 at 08:14 PM.
#11
I have a Kicker KX550.2 for sale. Not sure if it will work, but let me know if interested.
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
#13
I have a Kicker KX550.2 for sale. Not sure if it will work, but let me know if interested.
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
#16
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
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Eclipse for the deck I assume gets your vote for headunit? Why that over the alpine? just looking for opinions.
If I do this, like you described, will I even be able to hear the rear channels? I mean 75 watts true RMS against what 18 for the rears. I understand that the rears are for fill, but I would like to be able to hear them for the soundstage.
how will this workout? Also, I think that I would like to wire it up only one time and not have to mess around with things later on if I decided to add the sub. So many decisions....
As for budget I'm thinking around 400 us for an amp. the jl is on fleabay right now here and the alpine is here . yeah.
If I do this, like you described, will I even be able to hear the rear channels? I mean 75 watts true RMS against what 18 for the rears. I understand that the rears are for fill, but I would like to be able to hear them for the soundstage.
how will this workout? Also, I think that I would like to wire it up only one time and not have to mess around with things later on if I decided to add the sub. So many decisions....
As for budget I'm thinking around 400 us for an amp. the jl is on fleabay right now here and the alpine is here . yeah.
Overall better nav, transport and DA converter.
#18
and then I found this one
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5653
what do you guys think?
I'm leaning toward the 5 channel amps due to size and simplicity of install.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5653
what do you guys think?
I'm leaning toward the 5 channel amps due to size and simplicity of install.
Last edited by JSMax; 04-23-2008 at 08:51 PM.
#19
#21
I have a Kicker KX550.2 for sale. Not sure if it will work, but let me know if interested.
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
Specs:
Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0, -1dB
Input Sensitivity: High Level 340mV-10V, Low Level 170mV-5V
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB
Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high
pass, low pass, or all pass; KX100.2 high or low fixed at 80Hz
KICKBASS Boost: Variable to +18dB, (KX100.2 variable to +12dB)
centered at 40Hz
Past Output RCAs
Kicker KX 550.2
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 275 x 2 W
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 550 W
Dimension A With EndKaps (cm) 57.2 cm
Remote Bass Control: Yes
Fan Cooling: Yes
#25
I would rather not blow the whole budget on an amp. That's why I didn't list them in my orginal post. I am familar with audison and hertz, rainbow and some of the other high end product, and although that product is fantastic, it's priced way out of my budget. But, hey, thanks for adding something to this thread and backing it up with an intelligent argument.
#26
I would rather not blow the whole budget on an amp. That's why I didn't list them in my orginal post. I am familar with audison and hertz, rainbow and some of the other high end product, and although that product is fantastic, it's priced way out of my budget. But, hey, thanks for adding something to this thread and backing it up with an intelligent argument.
anytime
#27
Hey MAn
PM White Shadow, He has a set of 403b Extant 3 channel amps brand new for a steal. I would talk to him first before you put out some cash for the PDX stuff. These are pretty good amps and for 300 bucks you cant beat it!
PM White Shadow, He has a set of 403b Extant 3 channel amps brand new for a steal. I would talk to him first before you put out some cash for the PDX stuff. These are pretty good amps and for 300 bucks you cant beat it!
#28
If you got an amp for just the front and rear speakers, and decided to add another amp for a sub, you should be able to relatively easily. The amp for the speakers should have RCA outputs which u can connect to the sub amp to send the signal. To get the power to it, just get a distribution block and u can wire it up without taking of trim pieces and pulling up carpet.
#30
If you got an amp for just the front and rear speakers, and decided to add another amp for a sub, you should be able to relatively easily. The amp for the speakers should have RCA outputs which u can connect to the sub amp to send the signal. To get the power to it, just get a distribution block and u can wire it up without taking of trim pieces and pulling up carpet.
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