8" midbasses in a 4th gen?
04-26-2008, 03:38 PM
#2
Its been done, and I am actually doing it now...
I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
04-26-2008, 11:38 PM
#3
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Its been done, and I am actually doing it now...
I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
*EDIT* I remember back in the day though my dad had tons of speakers in the house that had just 8" woofers and tweeters. We even had a pair that had 10" woofers and tweeters, no mid. I dunno...
Last edited by skuccio's max; 04-27-2008 at 12:12 AM.
04-27-2008, 10:22 AM
#4
In a car, with the mids mounted in the doors, the drivers side is as much as 60 degrees or MORE of axis to your ear, while the passenger side will be less...
What will happen is the left mid will have a poor response compared to the right mid, so you would have to run active to get the crossover low enough to avoid the poor response, and even run different slopes for each side...Additionally you would need the stout tweeter, which actually wouldn't cost THAT much (seas fabrics are around 70 shipped)...
There are exceptions that do play fairly well, high end treated cone drivers with phase plugs to combat the poor off axis response....can't beat physics though...
I would go against running any 8 inch drivers until you have more knowledge, and money to go active with quality drivers....
Hope that helps
04-27-2008, 03:23 PM
#5
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Thats HOME though, think about it, when you are listening at home you are no more than 20-30 degrees of axis from each speaker, even less if the speakers are toed in...
In a car, with the mids mounted in the doors, the drivers side is as much as 60 degrees or MORE of axis to your ear, while the passenger side will be less...
What will happen is the left mid will have a poor response compared to the right mid, so you would have to run active to get the crossover low enough to avoid the poor response, and even run different slopes for each side...Additionally you would need the stout tweeter, which actually wouldn't cost THAT much (seas fabrics are around 70 shipped)...
There are exceptions that do play fairly well, high end treated cone drivers with phase plugs to combat the poor off axis response....can't beat physics though...
I would go against running any 8 inch drivers until you have more knowledge, and money to go active with quality drivers....
Hope that helps
In a car, with the mids mounted in the doors, the drivers side is as much as 60 degrees or MORE of axis to your ear, while the passenger side will be less...
What will happen is the left mid will have a poor response compared to the right mid, so you would have to run active to get the crossover low enough to avoid the poor response, and even run different slopes for each side...Additionally you would need the stout tweeter, which actually wouldn't cost THAT much (seas fabrics are around 70 shipped)...
There are exceptions that do play fairly well, high end treated cone drivers with phase plugs to combat the poor off axis response....can't beat physics though...
I would go against running any 8 inch drivers until you have more knowledge, and money to go active with quality drivers....
Hope that helps
Plus while it would be fun to do that build I don't even have the time+tools to make the baffles. I think some good 6.5"s will do me fine.
Do you know how the low end is on Dayton DC-160s?
04-27-2008, 05:09 PM
#6
The DC's won't do so well in the car. Try rs-180's instead.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
04-27-2008, 05:16 PM
#7
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The DC's won't do so well in the car. Try rs-180's instead.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
04-27-2008, 05:22 PM
#8
If you're going to do them for sub duty, I would go 8's and do the necessary fabrication to bolt'em up. I say go for some IDv3's or some MTX 5500's or some Eclipse 08060.4(8)'s if you can find them. All three have favorable specs for IB use.
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