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8" midbasses in a 4th gen?

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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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From: In a '99 SE-L, w/no sunroof
8" midbasses in a 4th gen?

Anyone try this? 8" midbasses in baffles in the front and rear speaker locations?
Old Apr 26, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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Its been done, and I am actually doing it now...

I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
Old Apr 26, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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From: In a '99 SE-L, w/no sunroof
Originally Posted by Fast1one
Its been done, and I am actually doing it now...

I wouldn't recommend it though unless you were doing dedicated midbass (300hz and under)....any 8 is going to have severe beaming issues, making it unusable so far off axis...You would have to run a stout tweeter that can run as low as 2-2.5khz and run active...
That blows. Maybe I will just run them in the rear locations then.

*EDIT* I remember back in the day though my dad had tons of speakers in the house that had just 8" woofers and tweeters. We even had a pair that had 10" woofers and tweeters, no mid. I dunno...

Last edited by skuccio's max; Apr 27, 2008 at 12:12 AM.
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by skuccio's max
That blows. Maybe I will just run them in the rear locations then.

*EDIT* I remember back in the day though my dad had tons of speakers in the house that had just 8" woofers and tweeters. We even had a pair that had 10" woofers and tweeters, no mid. I dunno...
Thats HOME though, think about it, when you are listening at home you are no more than 20-30 degrees of axis from each speaker, even less if the speakers are toed in...

In a car, with the mids mounted in the doors, the drivers side is as much as 60 degrees or MORE of axis to your ear, while the passenger side will be less...

What will happen is the left mid will have a poor response compared to the right mid, so you would have to run active to get the crossover low enough to avoid the poor response, and even run different slopes for each side...Additionally you would need the stout tweeter, which actually wouldn't cost THAT much (seas fabrics are around 70 shipped)...

There are exceptions that do play fairly well, high end treated cone drivers with phase plugs to combat the poor off axis response....can't beat physics though...

I would go against running any 8 inch drivers until you have more knowledge, and money to go active with quality drivers....

Hope that helps
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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From: In a '99 SE-L, w/no sunroof
Originally Posted by Fast1one
Thats HOME though, think about it, when you are listening at home you are no more than 20-30 degrees of axis from each speaker, even less if the speakers are toed in...

In a car, with the mids mounted in the doors, the drivers side is as much as 60 degrees or MORE of axis to your ear, while the passenger side will be less...

What will happen is the left mid will have a poor response compared to the right mid, so you would have to run active to get the crossover low enough to avoid the poor response, and even run different slopes for each side...Additionally you would need the stout tweeter, which actually wouldn't cost THAT much (seas fabrics are around 70 shipped)...

There are exceptions that do play fairly well, high end treated cone drivers with phase plugs to combat the poor off axis response....can't beat physics though...

I would go against running any 8 inch drivers until you have more knowledge, and money to go active with quality drivers....

Hope that helps
You make some very good & valid points.

Plus while it would be fun to do that build I don't even have the time+tools to make the baffles. I think some good 6.5"s will do me fine.

Do you know how the low end is on Dayton DC-160s?
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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The DC's won't do so well in the car. Try rs-180's instead.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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From: In a '99 SE-L, w/no sunroof
Originally Posted by nismos14
The DC's won't do so well in the car. Try rs-180's instead.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=48561867
What about for the rear? I would be running them as subs basically. Are those Tang Band subs good in IB?
Old Apr 27, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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If you're going to do them for sub duty, I would go 8's and do the necessary fabrication to bolt'em up. I say go for some IDv3's or some MTX 5500's or some Eclipse 08060.4(8)'s if you can find them. All three have favorable specs for IB use.
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