Aftermarket HU & Sub w/ Factory Speakers
07-12-2008, 12:25 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Atlanta/Athens
Posts: 62
Aftermarket HU & Sub w/ Factory Speakers
Just to make sure I'm buying the right things..
I have a Pioneer DEH-P6600 from an older car that I want to put into my 2002 SE Maxima. I also have an amp and sub I'd like to install, while utilizing the factory Bose amp and speakers (I'll prob disconnect the Bose sub).
I read one of the threads in here that talk about using a Metra 70-7551 harness to use the pre-amp connections for the best signal to the Bose amp. The problem is that I want to use those pre-amps for my own aftermarket amp and sub.
Is this Scoshce OEA-4 the only thing I need to get things working correctly? Any other harnesses? It's been a while since I've installed a HU so I'm trying to remember if I need to get the harness that comes out of the back of the HU or not..
Only other thing I need is a power wire to run for the amp.. any suggestions as to gauge/type/length?
How about length of RCA and remote wire for the aftermarket amp? The one I have leftover is pretty long, but I'd rather find out if it's too short before it's run.
Thank you.
I have a Pioneer DEH-P6600 from an older car that I want to put into my 2002 SE Maxima. I also have an amp and sub I'd like to install, while utilizing the factory Bose amp and speakers (I'll prob disconnect the Bose sub).
I read one of the threads in here that talk about using a Metra 70-7551 harness to use the pre-amp connections for the best signal to the Bose amp. The problem is that I want to use those pre-amps for my own aftermarket amp and sub.
Is this Scoshce OEA-4 the only thing I need to get things working correctly? Any other harnesses? It's been a while since I've installed a HU so I'm trying to remember if I need to get the harness that comes out of the back of the HU or not..
Only other thing I need is a power wire to run for the amp.. any suggestions as to gauge/type/length?
How about length of RCA and remote wire for the aftermarket amp? The one I have leftover is pretty long, but I'd rather find out if it's too short before it's run.
Thank you.
Last edited by BCoon; 07-12-2008 at 12:33 PM.
07-12-2008, 12:27 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Atlanta/Athens
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Or, would the PAC ROEM-NIS2 be a better choice?
I'm not sure if it's make a difference, but one of the major reasons I want to do this is that I use Rhapsody to Go, and I would like to connect my mp3 to my HU (I already have the adapter for the Pioneer). Also, I read that aftermarket HU usually sound better on the factory speakers than the factory Bose HU...
I'm not sure if it's make a difference, but one of the major reasons I want to do this is that I use Rhapsody to Go, and I would like to connect my mp3 to my HU (I already have the adapter for the Pioneer). Also, I read that aftermarket HU usually sound better on the factory speakers than the factory Bose HU...
07-14-2008, 07:28 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
I did a little research on your HU and apparently it has 3 pairs of RCA preouts. 1 pair front, 1 pair rear, and 1 pair for subs. The 70-7551 would be the best bet because it only uses the front and rear pairs of rca preouts. The sub preouts arent used on that harness.
What you would need to do, as i have done and many others is run a seperate rca cable pair from the sub preouts to the amp in the trunk. If you are wiring up a subwoofer system and the amp is only for the subs there is no need to have the front and rear channels go to it let alone the amp wouldnt be able to handle it if it wasnt a 4 channel.
Make sure you get like 20 foot wires, remember, you can always take away, but adding wire that has been cut is a *****, especially with the larger gauges and isnt recommended. With RCA's you want to try and not add extension cables, get it right the first time.
For use to tell you what gauge wire would be best for you, we need to know how many watts your amp is and what not.
As for the remote wire, some people agree with me and others disagree with me on this but i think that its much better to put the remote wire on a switch that you can physically turn on and off. If you connect the REM wire to the hu wire and what not, you can't turn the amp off at will and will always turn on and off with the HU. IF you wire it to a seperate switch you can turn it on and off when you want. So for those days u want quiet, or those days you want to hear your friends without yelling or for those days you forget to turn your radio off, and when you go to start your car up the amp drains the batt to much and you can start your car cause your drained your battery (this happened to me and since that incident my REM wire has been on a switch and i havent had startup problems due to the amp draining power on startup).
please post back with more questions and specs if you got em
What you would need to do, as i have done and many others is run a seperate rca cable pair from the sub preouts to the amp in the trunk. If you are wiring up a subwoofer system and the amp is only for the subs there is no need to have the front and rear channels go to it let alone the amp wouldnt be able to handle it if it wasnt a 4 channel.
Make sure you get like 20 foot wires, remember, you can always take away, but adding wire that has been cut is a *****, especially with the larger gauges and isnt recommended. With RCA's you want to try and not add extension cables, get it right the first time.
For use to tell you what gauge wire would be best for you, we need to know how many watts your amp is and what not.
As for the remote wire, some people agree with me and others disagree with me on this but i think that its much better to put the remote wire on a switch that you can physically turn on and off. If you connect the REM wire to the hu wire and what not, you can't turn the amp off at will and will always turn on and off with the HU. IF you wire it to a seperate switch you can turn it on and off when you want. So for those days u want quiet, or those days you want to hear your friends without yelling or for those days you forget to turn your radio off, and when you go to start your car up the amp drains the batt to much and you can start your car cause your drained your battery (this happened to me and since that incident my REM wire has been on a switch and i havent had startup problems due to the amp draining power on startup).
please post back with more questions and specs if you got em
07-14-2008, 05:23 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Atlanta/Athens
Posts: 62
I did a little research on your HU and apparently it has 3 pairs of RCA preouts. 1 pair front, 1 pair rear, and 1 pair for subs. The 70-7551 would be the best bet because it only uses the front and rear pairs of rca preouts. The sub preouts arent used on that harness.
What you would need to do, as i have done and many others is run a seperate rca cable pair from the sub preouts to the amp in the trunk. If you are wiring up a subwoofer system and the amp is only for the subs there is no need to have the front and rear channels go to it let alone the amp wouldnt be able to handle it if it wasnt a 4 channel.
Make sure you get like 20 foot wires, remember, you can always take away, but adding wire that has been cut is a *****, especially with the larger gauges and isnt recommended. With RCA's you want to try and not add extension cables, get it right the first time.
For use to tell you what gauge wire would be best for you, we need to know how many watts your amp is and what not.
As for the remote wire, some people agree with me and others disagree with me on this but i think that its much better to put the remote wire on a switch that you can physically turn on and off. If you connect the REM wire to the hu wire and what not, you can't turn the amp off at will and will always turn on and off with the HU. IF you wire it to a seperate switch you can turn it on and off when you want. So for those days u want quiet, or those days you want to hear your friends without yelling or for those days you forget to turn your radio off, and when you go to start your car up the amp drains the batt to much and you can start your car cause your drained your battery (this happened to me and since that incident my REM wire has been on a switch and i havent had startup problems due to the amp draining power on startup).
please post back with more questions and specs if you got em
What you would need to do, as i have done and many others is run a seperate rca cable pair from the sub preouts to the amp in the trunk. If you are wiring up a subwoofer system and the amp is only for the subs there is no need to have the front and rear channels go to it let alone the amp wouldnt be able to handle it if it wasnt a 4 channel.
Make sure you get like 20 foot wires, remember, you can always take away, but adding wire that has been cut is a *****, especially with the larger gauges and isnt recommended. With RCA's you want to try and not add extension cables, get it right the first time.
For use to tell you what gauge wire would be best for you, we need to know how many watts your amp is and what not.
As for the remote wire, some people agree with me and others disagree with me on this but i think that its much better to put the remote wire on a switch that you can physically turn on and off. If you connect the REM wire to the hu wire and what not, you can't turn the amp off at will and will always turn on and off with the HU. IF you wire it to a seperate switch you can turn it on and off when you want. So for those days u want quiet, or those days you want to hear your friends without yelling or for those days you forget to turn your radio off, and when you go to start your car up the amp drains the batt to much and you can start your car cause your drained your battery (this happened to me and since that incident my REM wire has been on a switch and i havent had startup problems due to the amp draining power on startup).
please post back with more questions and specs if you got em
I posted a little extra in the another thread in this forum (post 182). Anyway, I mentioned there that the preouts are only 2V, and I don't know if that will cause volume issues since I read on here that 2.5V should be minimum or there will be a volume issue.
I plan on using the aftermarket amp for my sub only, and use the Bose amp for the speakers - hence my question about which harness to use.
Also, I can turn my subs/amp off from my HU.. do you think that actually turns the amp off or just cuts the signal from the sub preouts?
I believe the amp is a 2 channel 300w.. that is totally from memory and I haven't seen it for about a year now. It's stored up in my house. I'll be back there in two days and can give more details, but I know it's not more than 400. I had it bridged for the sub. The sub is nothing special - 10" bazooka tube (the higher end one) but it sounds nice and I got it almost for free so I'm not complaining!
Feel free to response here or there..
Thanks again.
07-14-2008, 06:27 PM
#6
Looks like you have been doing your research. Yeah, anything below 2.5V will have volume issues. It is possible to use another harness in which you use and control the level of the speaker outputs from the head unit to the Bose amps. I am not sure how long the Bose amps will last due to the high-level output you are feeding to the amps.
I wonder if you could use the 70-7751 in combination with a level converter to adjust the levels to the Bose amps? This MIGHT help the low volume levels. I don't know, maybe someone else has already tried.
The other alternative would be to either upgrade the head unit with higher voltages of pre-outs, or just replace the Bose speakers. Good luck!
I wonder if you could use the 70-7751 in combination with a level converter to adjust the levels to the Bose amps? This MIGHT help the low volume levels. I don't know, maybe someone else has already tried.
The other alternative would be to either upgrade the head unit with higher voltages of pre-outs, or just replace the Bose speakers. Good luck!
07-14-2008, 07:01 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Atlanta/Athens
Posts: 62
Looks like you have been doing your research. Yeah, anything below 2.5V will have volume issues. It is possible to use another harness in which you use and control the level of the speaker outputs from the head unit to the Bose amps. I am not sure how long the Bose amps will last due to the high-level output you are feeding to the amps.
I wonder if you could use the 70-7751 in combination with a level converter to adjust the levels to the Bose amps? This MIGHT help the low volume levels. I don't know, maybe someone else has already tried.
The other alternative would be to either upgrade the head unit with higher voltages of pre-outs, or just replace the Bose speakers. Good luck!
I wonder if you could use the 70-7751 in combination with a level converter to adjust the levels to the Bose amps? This MIGHT help the low volume levels. I don't know, maybe someone else has already tried.
The other alternative would be to either upgrade the head unit with higher voltages of pre-outs, or just replace the Bose speakers. Good luck!
Somebody said somewhere in this forum that the Metra 70-7551 has a better quality signal since the RCA preouts are already low level and made for amps.. but I wonder if that would still be the case in comparison to the PAC ROEM-NIS2 since the preouts are 2V..
Last edited by BCoon; 07-14-2008 at 07:05 PM.
07-15-2008, 12:19 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
Currently, i have an alpine HU with 2v pre outs and i do have a volume issue. My system can go louder than it is currently going but it is still really loud. You can buy a line drivers to fix this issue. It converts the 2v signal to up to an 7-8v signal. This is based on somemodels. You can find models that do a whole range of voltage boosts.
As for your Hu turning the sub off, i dont think it will turn the amp off, just cut the signal. I dont think that HU has a seperate remote turn on? i wouldnt tap off that anyways, thats for the antenna. Its best to put it to a switch if you so feel mechanicaly inclined to do so.
You can use an 8 gauge wire for that amp, if you can fit a 4 gauge i would, just incase i ever upgrade.
You can use the line output converterif you want to, but meh, its as expensive as a line driver sometimes depending on how good it is.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ld+TLD66.html#
thats the line driver that i am ordering when i get back to az. Nismos said it was ok, and produced some noise in the lines, but i will see for myself, it may work for me just fine plus ihave 2 ground loop isolators.
ANother good line driver tried and true by nismos is the tru technology one, but thats over 300 bux
As for your Hu turning the sub off, i dont think it will turn the amp off, just cut the signal. I dont think that HU has a seperate remote turn on? i wouldnt tap off that anyways, thats for the antenna. Its best to put it to a switch if you so feel mechanicaly inclined to do so.
You can use an 8 gauge wire for that amp, if you can fit a 4 gauge i would, just incase i ever upgrade.
You can use the line output converterif you want to, but meh, its as expensive as a line driver sometimes depending on how good it is.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ld+TLD66.html#
thats the line driver that i am ordering when i get back to az. Nismos said it was ok, and produced some noise in the lines, but i will see for myself, it may work for me just fine plus ihave 2 ground loop isolators.
ANother good line driver tried and true by nismos is the tru technology one, but thats over 300 bux
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