compustar 2wfm as
#1
compustar 2wfm as
I have this installed in my 4 gen about 4 years ago. today, i took a trip out of town when i got back the compustar did not response to my remote. i then tried to reprogram the compustar with the turning on/off and that didn't work. i have tried with the backup remote without the LCD display and that failed to work. what is the next step of troubleshooting? thanks.
#4
antenna on the windshield was checked when i tried to reprogram by turning on/off. the battery is full on my remote display. i have tried with my mini backup remote and that did not work. i have no problems in the past. it has been working well for about 4 years.
#6
the antenna is plugged.
i didn't have much daylight so i didn't take apart all the wires. i only looked at underneath. wires seem tightly tie with the zip tie and black tape. i guess i will need to test connections over the weekend. is it enough to test the 12-volt power wire and test the negative wire to determine if the brain is dead? if i have power to the brain that means the antenna is not working?
i didn't have much daylight so i didn't take apart all the wires. i only looked at underneath. wires seem tightly tie with the zip tie and black tape. i guess i will need to test connections over the weekend. is it enough to test the 12-volt power wire and test the negative wire to determine if the brain is dead? if i have power to the brain that means the antenna is not working?
#7
Does the main go into programming? (one click and one parking light flash followed by two clicks and two parking light flashes)
There are two 30 amp fuses for the main powers, red and red/white wires. The 10 amp fuse is for the + parking lights. Also check the ground, I've seen those build up resistance, ie rust and what not over the years. If all else fails unplug all the connectors from the brain, (CM3000?) and plug them back in after about 20 min.
You could also check continuity on the antenna cable. I've seen those wire pull out over time.
There are two 30 amp fuses for the main powers, red and red/white wires. The 10 amp fuse is for the + parking lights. Also check the ground, I've seen those build up resistance, ie rust and what not over the years. If all else fails unplug all the connectors from the brain, (CM3000?) and plug them back in after about 20 min.
You could also check continuity on the antenna cable. I've seen those wire pull out over time.
Last edited by robrie; 07-21-2008 at 08:18 PM.
#8
i have probed with a DMM on the CM300 red(+), red/white and black(-) wires. all 3 wires show connectivity. i pulled out the hardness and plug it back after the probing but i did not probe from the hardness. should i have probe from the hardness? because there is no respond from the alarm i did not probe anywhere else. i don't know how to probe the antenna. does anyone know how? i have already pulled out the antenna hardness and replug it back-in in both sides.
i have pulled out the 2 fuses. both seems to be intact. both fuses don't have fuse number on it but it is 1 red and 1 green.
i have pulled out the 2 fuses. both seems to be intact. both fuses don't have fuse number on it but it is 1 red and 1 green.
#9
Checking the continuity between both blue plugs on the antenna cable would be what youre looking for. I would recommend testing for DC V on the red and red/white wires. Test at both the brain and at the connection on the ignition harness.
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