Did some deadening and added a temporary amp.....
#1
Did some deadening and added a temporary amp.....
Well these pictures aren't all from the same day, but now that most of the work is done, I thought I would share. Last year I bought some Hertz speakers from Don along with a 12" DIYMA sub. During the process I a lot of deadening with E-Dead and this stuff called Duct King Insulation. I used the insulation over the E-Dead in some places but also used it alone around the shifter to quiet exhaust noise and in the footwells of the car to quiet road noise. I noticed a huge improvement from the shifter part, not so much from the footwells.
Thankfully, I had Patrick (PHenry) to help me with all of this. He sold me an old Sony amp for $25 to tide me over until I figure out what I want to do. The Sony is powering my sub while my RF 500x is powering my fronts. We figured out one of the channels on the RF is dead, so instead of bridging the front we just didn't hook up the channel that's bad. Patrick also did my big-3 wiring upgrade, which gives me peace of mind, since we decided to remove my capacitor.
Part 1 (E-Dead)
Part 2 (More E-Dead and insulation)
Insulation on inside of front doors to hopefully make a tighter "seal".
E-Dead on the rear deck
Insulation in foot well
Thankfully, I had Patrick (PHenry) to help me with all of this. He sold me an old Sony amp for $25 to tide me over until I figure out what I want to do. The Sony is powering my sub while my RF 500x is powering my fronts. We figured out one of the channels on the RF is dead, so instead of bridging the front we just didn't hook up the channel that's bad. Patrick also did my big-3 wiring upgrade, which gives me peace of mind, since we decided to remove my capacitor.
Part 1 (E-Dead)
Part 2 (More E-Dead and insulation)
Insulation on inside of front doors to hopefully make a tighter "seal".
E-Dead on the rear deck
Insulation in foot well
#5
I DO have one noteworthy thing to mention...while Nick has in the past been somewhat clueless on how to mod a part of his car , he really has stepped it up. He may give me a lot of credit, and I do give him technical advice, but he did do a LOT of the work on this- removal, install, reassembly, etc. He did a lot more hands-on stuff than any time in the past. I think that I really could have pointed and directed and he could have executed the install as well as I did. Hats off, Nick...
#6
I use aluminized HVAC tape to adhere the edges, and I had great luck with it holding up in my Spec.
#7
I was trying despirately to noodle some way to cover in that hole. Leave it to you to figure out what I could not.
I DO have one noteworthy thing to mention...while Nick has in the past been somewhat clueless on how to mod a part of his car , he really has stepped it up. He may give me a lot of credit, and I do give him technical advice, but he did do a LOT of the work on this- removal, install, reassembly, etc. He did a lot more hands-on stuff than any time in the past. I think that I really could have pointed and directed and he could have executed the install as well as I did. Hats off, Nick...
I DO have one noteworthy thing to mention...while Nick has in the past been somewhat clueless on how to mod a part of his car , he really has stepped it up. He may give me a lot of credit, and I do give him technical advice, but he did do a LOT of the work on this- removal, install, reassembly, etc. He did a lot more hands-on stuff than any time in the past. I think that I really could have pointed and directed and he could have executed the install as well as I did. Hats off, Nick...
So...it turns out my drivers door has a hard time getting the lock mechanism to lock properly. Feels like there's some obstruction
#8
As a barrier membrane, it is hard to beat. I blocks and absorbs sounds...it does not deaden them like mass-loading does. It is good becase it is cheap and you can run to Lowes or HD if you run short on it mid-install.
I use aluminized HVAC tape to adhere the edges, and I had great luck with it holding up in my Spec.
I use aluminized HVAC tape to adhere the edges, and I had great luck with it holding up in my Spec.
#9
#10
^ Heh, I'm not too up-to-date on sound deadening materials, effectivess, and purposes if you can't tell. I'm hoping to stick a free-air sub (Image Dynamics probably) in place of the Bose 8" and probably deaden the rear deck while I'm at it.
#11
#12
sorry im a deadening retard...but you have my attention
#13
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,674
prevents sound? So you are saying this will keep volume and reduce vibration compared to multi layer deadening that reduces sound as well? Where are the ideal places to use this? And are you saying this works better for sound deadening than things such as cascade, dynamat, edead, etc? or more or less work better if you are planning to put multiple layers?
sorry im a deadening retard...but you have my attention
sorry im a deadening retard...but you have my attention
Now read ... www.cascadeaudio.com
#14
Looks good. Between the E-Dead and duct insulation, which do you think is more effective? Where did you find the E-Dead? I'm assuming it is similar to Dynamat and such (a heavy "tar" type sound dampener).
Interesting that insulating under your shifter was more effective than doing the footwells.
Dave
Interesting that insulating under your shifter was more effective than doing the footwells.
Dave
#15
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,674
Quite common as that is the tranny tunnel and a major culprit of more than just road noise.
#16
Yeah, I had removed my heat shield so it was a straight shot to the ground/exhaust. It's probably different if you have an auto though.
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