12" IB install (plenty of pics)
Both of those pictures show the baffle board which is one piece. I routered out the portions where the back seat and c-pillar trim pieces contact. The original rear deck piece is only 1/8-3/16" masonite so I had to thin the baffle board down for those pieces to fit properly.
I don't fully understand.. Do you mean you shaved down the one piece of 3/4 baffle board in certain areas? I guess I'll see what you mean when I start mine. I had to order some more deadener to redo the trunk , Dynamat original is horrible. Ordered some Cascade vbmax from Don. I hoping by the end of this month I'll be all done with mine.
That ring painted gray with the grill cloth was done just a few days ago. It is for the new mids in my front stage. That will be the topic for another thread
I don't fully understand.. Do you mean you shaved down the one piece of 3/4 baffle board in certain areas? I guess I'll see what you mean when I start mine. I had to order some more deadener to redo the trunk , Dynamat original is horrible. Ordered some Cascade vbmax from Don. I hoping by the end of this month I'll be all done with mine.
That ring painted gray with the grill cloth was done just a few days ago. It is for the new mids in my front stage. That will be the topic for another thread
Here is a view of the backside.
Cloth is attached with spray adhesive
Grill is attached to rear deck with eight of these:
http://www.speakerworks.com/large_gr..._p/gtlarge.htm
Final result looks somewhat OEM
[/QUOTE]
Eng Do you have some type of foam padding on the underside of the grill cover? The gray area underside looks like a combo of gray paint and foam padding. The baffle board.. you said you thinned out some areas where the C pillars and trim pieces contact. Did you use a router to thin it out or jigsaw? It also looks like the grill cover have curved ends around the perimeter Im guessing router again to make those curves?
Cloth is attached with spray adhesive
Grill is attached to rear deck with eight of these:
http://www.speakerworks.com/large_gr..._p/gtlarge.htm
Final result looks somewhat OEM
[/QUOTE]Eng Do you have some type of foam padding on the underside of the grill cover? The gray area underside looks like a combo of gray paint and foam padding. The baffle board.. you said you thinned out some areas where the C pillars and trim pieces contact. Did you use a router to thin it out or jigsaw? It also looks like the grill cover have curved ends around the perimeter Im guessing router again to make those curves?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by maxprivate
Eng Do you have some type of foam padding on the underside of the grill cover? The gray area underside looks like a combo of gray paint and foam padding.
Originally Posted by maxprivate
The baffle board.. you said you thinned out some areas where the C pillars and trim pieces contact. Did you use a router to thin it out or jigsaw? It also looks like the grill cover have curved ends around the perimeter Im guessing router again to make those curves?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
The definition is very good since you are not listening to it "through the trunk"
I will definitely do it again in the next vehicle I own.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
nice, I'm sure the SQ is strong with this setup. You also mentioned before that you can feel the bass through the seats. You still feel this way? Not expecting trunk and rear license plate to go crazy but would be happy to know that you feel the bass, maybe even see rear view mirror shake a lil bit? I need to hear an IB setup in person
I had my 75 yo mother in the car a few months ago and I introduced her to the start of Pink Floyd - "Welcome to the Machine" at a fairly elevated volume. The look on her face was priceless.
She didn't know what was going on.My three young kids think it is awesome. They much rather ride in Daddy's car than Mummy's van.
nice, I'm sure the SQ is strong with this setup. You also mentioned before that you can feel the bass through the seats. You still feel this way? Not expecting trunk and rear license plate to go crazy but would be happy to know that you feel the bass, maybe even see rear view mirror shake a lil bit? I need to hear an IB setup in person
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Your other post was funny lol..
I went with the Esotar 1200 , I want to do this only once. I know performance in an IB setup will not be as good as in a sealed enclosure but Im sure I'll be happy with it.
I went with the Esotar 1200 , I want to do this only once. I know performance in an IB setup will not be as good as in a sealed enclosure but Im sure I'll be happy with it.
Last edited by maxprivate; Jun 9, 2009 at 08:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
I haven't received the sub yet still waiting for deadener to come in so I can pick everything up and finish that first. Then the fun begins. This will be my first time doing anything like this , that's why I have so many questions. And you've been a big help. I really appreciate that.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
If you look in this picture, the torsion bars are behind the sub
There is only about 1/2" clearance (horizontally) between the sub and the trunk torsion bars.
No problem. Make sure you do plenty of measuring before you start cutting.
The dimension of the bottom end are not typically given on the spec drawings. I emailed Alumapro to get that information before I ordered the sub. I made a cardboard template of the subs profile and then lay in the trunk to get the front to back and vertical positioning right.
If you look in this picture, the torsion bars are behind the sub
There is only about 1/2" clearance (horizontally) between the sub and the trunk torsion bars.
No problem. Make sure you do plenty of measuring before you start cutting.
If you look in this picture, the torsion bars are behind the sub
There is only about 1/2" clearance (horizontally) between the sub and the trunk torsion bars.
No problem. Make sure you do plenty of measuring before you start cutting.
Im hoping it won't be a problem. My heart tells me it won't. I could always build up another 1/4 or so if I need to. I already ordered the Sub so I have to make it work.
^^^^Wow thats a huge amp!!!
Im about to work on my second IB install its fairly easy to do and the rear deck metal is very thin so cutting and drilling is a breeze. After I took the bose sub out I replaced with a DLS OA10 in on a 1/2" baffle board. Sq was very good but the output wasn't enough for me. So now looking for a sub that can take 500w easy and still survive in a IB scenerio Im leaning towards Fi's IB312...
Im about to work on my second IB install its fairly easy to do and the rear deck metal is very thin so cutting and drilling is a breeze. After I took the bose sub out I replaced with a DLS OA10 in on a 1/2" baffle board. Sq was very good but the output wasn't enough for me. So now looking for a sub that can take 500w easy and still survive in a IB scenerio Im leaning towards Fi's IB312...
^^^^Wow thats a huge amp!!!
Im about to work on my second IB install its fairly easy to do and the rear deck metal is very thin so cutting and drilling is a breeze. After I took the bose sub out I replaced with a DLS OA10 in on a 1/2" baffle board. Sq was very good but the output wasn't enough for me. So now looking for a sub that can take 500w easy and still survive in a IB scenerio Im leaning towards Fi's IB312...
Im about to work on my second IB install its fairly easy to do and the rear deck metal is very thin so cutting and drilling is a breeze. After I took the bose sub out I replaced with a DLS OA10 in on a 1/2" baffle board. Sq was very good but the output wasn't enough for me. So now looking for a sub that can take 500w easy and still survive in a IB scenerio Im leaning towards Fi's IB312...
Sorry that was a guestamation I really don't recall the measurements. But the sub sounded good but 1 wasn't enough and 2 would be a pain to fabricate. So looking for a nice beefy 12 any suggestions??
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Crap.. The Esotar 1200 is 260 mm in diameter so that's just shy of
10 1/4. Do you recall what the dimensions were for the Alumapro so I can compare? Its probably not going to clear since it looks like the Alumapro is really close to clearing and I think the Esotar is much larger in diameter.
10 1/4. Do you recall what the dimensions were for the Alumapro so I can compare? Its probably not going to clear since it looks like the Alumapro is really close to clearing and I think the Esotar is much larger in diameter.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Crap.. The Esotar 1200 is 260 mm in diameter so that's just shy of
10 1/4. Do you recall what the dimensions were for the Alumapro so I can compare? Its probably not going to clear since it looks like the Alumapro is really close to clearing and I think the Esotar is much larger in diameter.
10 1/4. Do you recall what the dimensions were for the Alumapro so I can compare? Its probably not going to clear since it looks like the Alumapro is really close to clearing and I think the Esotar is much larger in diameter.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
If it does not clear in the configuration that I am using, you can always:
1) Move the sub back and mount it from underneath
2) remove trunk torsion bars and install gas springs
1) Move the sub back and mount it from underneath
2) remove trunk torsion bars and install gas springs
it seems that 260 mm dimesion stays consistant to the bottom of the sub . If it doesn't clear then The gas springs are the way I would go. Installing it from underneath would have it protrude to far into the trunk and I wouldn't want to worry about someone else ( wifey ) throwing things in the trunk and damaging the sub.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
http://www.dynaudio.com/eng/pdf/Esotar2_1200.pdf
it seems that 260 mm dimesion stays consistant to the bottom of the sub ..
it seems that 260 mm dimesion stays consistant to the bottom of the sub ..
I will let you know the diameter of the Alumapro later tonight.
Thanks again for your input fellas .
wow maxprivate, you are getting an esotar 1200?! Thats an awesome and expensive sub. Wish I could afford it. I'm also doing an IB setup and HOPE to have it done before the end of the month. Don I need you
Anyone in jersey with an IB setup mind if I come by to take a listen? eng92, I'm happy to hear your feedback. I'm going to be rolling with an MW190 to save on space and weight. I hope it can produce somewhat similar output to yours. I already know maxprivates 1200 will spit on mine so I cant wait to hear that even if I get mine in first
Anyone in jersey with an IB setup mind if I come by to take a listen? eng92, I'm happy to hear your feedback. I'm going to be rolling with an MW190 to save on space and weight. I hope it can produce somewhat similar output to yours. I already know maxprivates 1200 will spit on mine so I cant wait to hear that even if I get mine in first
wow maxprivate, you are getting an esotar 1200?! Thats an awesome and expensive sub. Wish I could afford it. I'm also doing an IB setup and HOPE to have it done before the end of the month. Don I need you
Yeah I know it expensive but you only live once
Anyone in jersey with an IB setup mind if I come by to take a listen? eng92, I'm happy to hear your feedback. I'm going to be rolling with an MW190 to save on space and weight. I hope it can produce somewhat similar output to yours. I already know maxprivates 1200 will spit on mine so I cant wait to hear that even if I get mine in first
Yeah I know it expensive but you only live once
Anyone in jersey with an IB setup mind if I come by to take a listen? eng92, I'm happy to hear your feedback. I'm going to be rolling with an MW190 to save on space and weight. I hope it can produce somewhat similar output to yours. I already know maxprivates 1200 will spit on mine so I cant wait to hear that even if I get mine in first
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by maxprivate
If it doesn't clear then The gas springs are the way I would go. Installing it from underneath would have it protrude to far into the trunk and I wouldn't want to worry about someone else ( wifey ) throwing things in the trunk and damaging the sub.
It would only hang down an extra ~5/16" then (flange thickness) It would be even less if you made the bottom board thicker.
Since you would be mounting from underneath, the extra material thickness on top of the rear deck does not matter. You no longer have to worry about clearance to the back window to install the sub.
It does not have to hang any lower if you mount it from underneath. If you go with a double thickness baffle board, you can flush it to the bottom surface of the top board (ie. the sheet metal deck and bottom board have holes large enough to clear the mounting flange)
It would only hang down an extra ~5/16" then (flange thickness) It would be even less if you made the bottom board thicker.
Since you would be mounting from underneath, the extra material thickness on top of the rear deck does not matter. You no longer have to worry about clearance to the back window to install the sub.
It would only hang down an extra ~5/16" then (flange thickness) It would be even less if you made the bottom board thicker.
Since you would be mounting from underneath, the extra material thickness on top of the rear deck does not matter. You no longer have to worry about clearance to the back window to install the sub.
All I should need is a 3/4 piece of baffle board to mount the Sub on. So If I mount it underneath, all I have to do like you said.. cut the rear deck sheet metal opening large enough to clear the mounting flange so I can screw the sub to the bottom of the baffle board.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by maxprivate
yeah that makes a lot of sense and is another alternative I can take. What do you mean by double thickeness baffle board?
All I should need is a 3/4 piece of baffle board to mount the Sub on. So If I mount it underneath, all I have to do like you said.. cut the rear deck sheet metal opening large enough to clear the mounting flange so I can screw the sub to the bottom of the baffle board.
All I should need is a 3/4 piece of baffle board to mount the Sub on. So If I mount it underneath, all I have to do like you said.. cut the rear deck sheet metal opening large enough to clear the mounting flange so I can screw the sub to the bottom of the baffle board.
If you simply mount it to the bottom of the baffle board, you will be a little over an inch (3/4" + flange thickness) lower than if you mounted it from the top side like I did.
The suggestion of a double thickness board would reduce this from ~1" to ~1/4"-5/16",
It all depends on how low you are comfortable with the magnet "hanging" in your trunk.
If you simply mount it to the bottom of the baffle board, you will be a little over an inch (3/4" + flange thickness) lower than if you mounted it from the top side like I did.
The suggestion of a double thickness board would reduce this from ~1" to ~1/4"-5/16",
It all depends on how low you are comfortable with the magnet "hanging" in your trunk.
The suggestion of a double thickness board would reduce this from ~1" to ~1/4"-5/16",
It all depends on how low you are comfortable with the magnet "hanging" in your trunk.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
I still don't understand how I would reduce how low the sub hangs using a double thickness board. You mean two pieces of wood? One piece of wood with the hole big enough for the sub to clear the flanges and the other piece on top of that to screw the sub to. Am I right?
The best would be some 1-1/2" thick material and then you could router a step into it for the flange to recess into. However, I would think that material would be hard to get, expensive and you would only use a partial sheet.
You can laminate a couple of sheets of plywood together. Just make sure you lie them on a nice flat surface with lots of weight uniformly distributed until the adhesive is fully cured.
That is correct.
The best would be some 1-1/2" thick material and then you could router a step into it for the flange to recess into. However, I would think that material would be hard to get, expensive and you would only use a partial sheet.
You can laminate a couple of sheets of plywood together. Just make sure you lie them on a nice flat surface with lots of weight uniformly distributed until the adhesive is fully cured.
The best would be some 1-1/2" thick material and then you could router a step into it for the flange to recess into. However, I would think that material would be hard to get, expensive and you would only use a partial sheet.
You can laminate a couple of sheets of plywood together. Just make sure you lie them on a nice flat surface with lots of weight uniformly distributed until the adhesive is fully cured.
What's nice about the Esotar was that I used the foam packing that the sub comes with as a template and for measuring purposes and it worked out beautiful. I just had the sub sitting on top of the rear deck for test fitments and it clears with room to build up at least 1" if I wanted total. Now on to making the baffle board and deadening the rear deck.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,199
From: Ontario, Canada
That sounds pretty encouraging.
Just make sure the sub clears the rear glass for install and removal with the added thickness of the baffle board in place.
Also, make sure you actually have room to tighten all the screws.
Just make sure the sub clears the rear glass for install and removal with the added thickness of the baffle board in place.
Also, make sure you actually have room to tighten all the screws.