I currently have 2 Alpine type E 10's being pushed by an alpine mono 400w amp (dont quote me, cant remember amp specs). I blew one of the 10's up big time and was going to bring it back for the bestbuy break anything warentee to get it replaced. But 10's just are not enough for me anymore.

When i was 16 i was running 2 JL WO's on a Rockford 360a2 which was really loud in the car i had. What i am looking for is something that would be as loud or louder than that setup was. You know when you can turn a speaker up so loud that when it hits it makes that weird noise inside your ear? I want to be able to do that again. I have a bass **** under the steering wheel so i would usually have it adjusted down, but i'm looking for the capability.

Anyone know whats the cheapest way i would get something like this? I was told to just get 2 more 0's and run the 4 of them off of the 400w amp, but that doesnt seem like it would work, and thats alot of wasted trunk space. I was also thinking of changing the E's to 12" type R's but i dont know how much of a difference there would be if i used the same amp. Wouldnt the same power make the same noise? Or would the type R's hit alot harder with the same power?

Any help appreciated!

 

Stop shopping at Best Buy! For the money you're spending you could be getting better equipment.

I am of the mindset that anything (within reason) can be done with 1 sub. A 15" (or 10",12", etc. for that matter) with ~1000w will take care of the lows and it can be done on a budget. A decent set of comps up front on an appropriately powered amp up front. For affordable quality i find the soundsolutionsaudio.com family to be a big winner.

Just getting loud is easy, but eventually you're going to open up the SQ can of worms. Thats when you holler at our own Don and blow the bank.

 

I called BB and they said that i could upgrade the speaker by just paying the difference when i trade them in. So, upgrading to the 2 12" type r's?

I know you said stop going to BB, but hey, if their going to let me trade in the 10's i dont see why i should fork over extra money buying a whole new setup with a chance of being able to sell the 10's

 

lookin at bb's website ugrading from 2 type e 10"s to type r 12"s is going to cost you $200.

you can buy something like an fi q or ssa icon for just a couple bucks more (plus you have the 10s to sell).

either way you need more power to get more sound generally speaking. so factor in that cost as well. you also need to consider that you shouldn't add a ton off bass to the trunk without upgrading your front stage as well.

i would say get out of the bb trap while you can. scenario:

you: "i'd like to trade these in for type r's"
bb: "np" (if you're lucky, $200)
bb: "you're going to need a bigger amp for that"
you: "what you got?"
bb: "this is our most powerful amp (points to alpine 1000w)"
you: "ok" ($400)

part 2: realizing you don't have enough highs/mids... coming soon.

so that incredible savings just cost you $600 and all you got was some ok gear. did you win?

 

ok, i took your advice and got out of the BB trap....but i also decided to stop being cheap. I went to a local shop and order 2 10" type R's with 1000W alpine amp. That should fix my 'its not loud enough' problem.

 

you should compare prices here first but atleast you are moving up from that BB gabbage. Im sure Don can give you a better deal...or atleast try to.

 

the point was to get better equipment, not get the same equipment somewhere else. oh well, hopefully you saved some money.

 

The people i talked to swear by type R's, i've also never heard anything bad about them. I was thinking of going with JL W3's but i'm not sure what the difference would be.

 

you're talkin to the wrong ppl then.

not to say they suck but theres better out there.

 

Do you think the w3's would be a better choice?

 

jl w3 vs alpine type r? The real question is how much are you spending. For the price, I'm sure we can give a better recommendation.

 

Subs, amp, install are all around $900. Subs are a little under 200 ea, amp is ~399, install consists of taking out the 8g power wire and replacing it with 4g, putting the subs in the box, creating a mount for the amp since i want it out of the way to not use trunk space, and wiring everything.

I would like to keep my business at the same place since i always go there to ask them questions but never actually spend anything. i told the guy the other day if i went in asking questions and using their time without spending anything, i would tell me to take a hike. If going somewhere else is only going to save me 100 bucks then i dont really care.

 

do you know what lines they carry? its cool if you want to give them your business but don't let loyalty get you the short end of the stick.

there are a lot of shops that have the same mentality as the chains; push the brand names with little regard to product quality/value.

do some research on whats hot in the audio world right now. caraudio.com is probably your best bet since theres ppl of all experiance levels and varrying interests. since you seem to be stuck on alpine and jl i would say look for names you've never heard of and read.

 

I called them to tell them that i was not married to the alpine brand, based on what they offer, what i am looking for, and the price range i am in they are the best choice. I could go somewhere else and save some money, but like i said i would rather stay loyal. He also said that JL's would be a definate upgrade but to match the power i am trying to push i would need w6's which are alot more expensive than the type R's.

 

ask if they carry any less mainstream brands and report back. 1 of 2 things will happen; either they will say some doo doo brands or you will have a list of better quality gear.

 

You my friend need a single 12 or 15 Brahma if u can find one (Adire is out of business)

As far as the W3's if there W3v2's youll like them alot, however as others have said u pay for the name JL to be on the sub... Also they have like dual 3 ohm VC's so your amp never makes that u think as almost all amps rate at 1,2,4 ohm and not 3/6.

On top of that every amp at best buy is either specing the peak power at worst and at best at 14.4 V (read RF amps) those giving you a false impression of what you will get...

If you tell me a budget ill tell u the best thing to get :-D

 

Alp, JL, Pioneer (never), Eclipse, and MB Quartz are what they advert on their website. From what everyone I have talked to, except this thread, the type r's are a good choice. 12's and 15's not really an option since I listen to alot of heavy metal and they take longer to rebound.

 

i don't understand why people ask questions if they are just gonna do what they wanna do anyway.

go ahead and get the type r, theres obviously no point in trying to tell you otherwise.

awesome!

 

type aarrghhhs. cheap, and they can take a beating and get loud as ****.
a single 12 a guy hit 151 i believe...course that was a burp but for 100 bucks how can you go wrong?

 

the size of the cone has nothing to do with responsiveness of the sub. please stop spreading misinformation. whoever told you that is an idiot and knows nothing about speakers.

and finding a Brahma is just about impossible. also it will be beat and there are better subs out there for the money new then you would pay for a Brahma used.

 

Most of the information i have to work with if from when i was 16. Everything anybody told me back then i figured it was 100% truth. It seems now that everyone always says everyone else if full of S&*^. Anyone who i have talked to in person, weather they had owned them or just heard them, says that the R's are awsome (not people in the shop). I am looking for something thats just going to pound when i want it to pound, not take a constand pounding, and from the people i talked to this speaker will do it. I understand that i can get a better deal, and find better speakers, but good enough.

Doesnt basic physics tell you that a 10 would rebound faster than a 12? Or at least the 10 is not going to hit as deep as a 12, which isnt something you want with metal.

 

To be fair, the mms (moving mass of the driver) can effect response time, but you can make 15's that "hit" as fast as a 10. Like mine :-D, I have never had anyone get in my car and think there was a 15 it was always a few 10's or 12's.

Furthermore, how deep a sub can go has nothing to do with the size itself, yes all things being equal a 15 should play louder then a 10, but it depends on the sub and the install.

I've had friends with and doen installs with r types both the new ones and the old ones. They can get loud and then can sound good.

Finally, i see you are looking for the cheapest way to get louder essentially. The CHEAPEST way to do it is to build a ported box, tuned low to like 30-33Hz, that should give you a 3-6dB gain across a bunch of the useable range of the drivers. Total cost is like 50 bucks. and that would be the same as adding 2 more E types. So I say do that, only costs you 50 and if you still want more, drop on the r types and put them in that ported box...