HOW TO: Run Amp Wires in your 4th Gen - Without Drilling
08-26-2008, 09:31 AM
#1
HOW TO: Run Amp Wires in your 4th Gen - Without Drilling
Ok.. i got tired of all the random "Where to run amp wires" Questions, so ima make this thread, and mods, if you wanna merge, then fine.. and anyone else who wants to asisst with other aspects of installing an Amp/Sub in a 4th gen please feel free to do so.
GIVE YOURSELF AT LEAST 2-3 HOURS IF A NEWBIE
Also while doing this, make sure you propery measure your amp wire. AND DONT LOCK YOUR DOORS AND LEAVE YOUR TRUNK OPEN!!!! TRUST ME!!!!!
There are no pics.. just instructions...
Things u will need... Screw driver ( both phillips and flathead), a knife, and your Car Jack/stand... trust me on this...and electric tape.
1).. Disconnect the battery.. just do it.. please...so u can properly hook up your amp wire without being fried. also while your in there, find a good place to mount your Fuse. make sure that its as close to the battery as possible and not on the battery...
2) on the same side as the battery, near where the strut tower/hood struts are should be a hole leading into the side finder of the car... remember that hole.
3).. On the inside of the drivers side of your car, remove the kick panel on the left side from under your fuse box/hood open level area... might be a bolt in there but its not hard to take out...then pull back your carpet.. follow the cable wire for the hood release and u will feel a rubber grommet. work at it a bit to remove it from the firewall.
4).... the step no one meantions. Located over top of the drivers side front wheel well is a panel to protect from rain, water, whatever. If u can see, its held in by screws (phillips) and your push pin "snap" holders (flathead..). The screws run along the outside of the wheel well.. the push pins more so on the inside... use your car jack the car up a few inches in order to fit your screw driver inbetween the wheel and the screw.. if you have a extremely short screwdriver you might not have to use the jack at all, or will have to jack up the car only a little bit... you do not have to have the wheel off the ground! if it makes u feel better, you can remove the wheel, but honestly its not nessary.
5) Once there is space between the wheel and the wheel well, remove the screws on the outside of the wheel well starting from the right.. the mud guard area all the way up to either 12'o clock on the wheel or 11 (put your screws in a safe place!!!) then using the flathead screw driver CAREFULLY remove the put pins by placing the flathead on top of the pop in/pop out part.. NOT the outer ring! the plastic is old and honestly will break..
6) once screws are removed, pull the panel down. you will THEN see 2 rubber grommets leaving into the cabin, and u will see the hole i was refering to in step 2 leading into your engine bay.
- If you are going to be using 10- to 8 gauge wire, Use the smaller grommet leading into the engine bay. anything bigger, use the larger one.
Remove the grommet from the hole, and using your knife, carefully cut into the grommet. if using the bigger one, u might not be able to remove it, but u still will have to cut into it. Run the wire thru the hole and pull it out thru the other side. IF YOU HAVE EVERYTHING PROPERLY MEASURED, reuse the grommet, wrap it around your amp wire and the hood release cable and tape it back up with the electrical tape. do the same on the other side within the finder with that grommet and make sure u tape up your amp wire in the area where it runs thru the hole of the engine bay in order to avoid chafting.
Now you have ran your amp wire!
Replace your Wheel Well panel, Replace screws, lower car... and now you can go on and run your other wires!
*Make sure all wires go UNDER the carpet and that there are NO pinch Points! Just remove plastic from bottom of the door, then slide your carpet out..*
Remote Turn on - Connect it to the same wire that controls your Antenna.. blue to blue baby..
Speaker Wire/Audio plugs.. Run it on the OPPOSITE side of the vehicle!
Ground - There are various points that you can run your ground. Seatbelt Bolt, Rear Strut Bolt, or even gettin a screw and bolt and using one of the random holes in the trunk in order to ground it.. but whatever you choose remeber to SAND DOWN THE PAINT! thats the only way u will get a good ground! your gonna need the contact of METAL on METAL... and Make sure you connect ALL of your wires BEFORE you reconnect your battery!
THINGS TO REMEBER!!!
1) Measure your amp wire! cause once you cut, thats it!
2)Use the electrical tape to one- Tape back up the area you cut into the grommet ...reuse the grommet, Tape it back together and tape up your amp wire in key areas, i.e. the hole leading into the engine bay and the hole....
3) dont lock your doors or close your trunk and leave all tools/materials OUTSIDE of the car! its no fun to keep rehooking back up stuff just to get the dang screwdriver out of the trunk...
4) keep track of everything that your doing- where your materials are, where you place tools and screws..
Feel Free to ask any questions.. and GOOD LUCK!
GIVE YOURSELF AT LEAST 2-3 HOURS IF A NEWBIE
Also while doing this, make sure you propery measure your amp wire. AND DONT LOCK YOUR DOORS AND LEAVE YOUR TRUNK OPEN!!!! TRUST ME!!!!!
There are no pics.. just instructions...
Things u will need... Screw driver ( both phillips and flathead), a knife, and your Car Jack/stand... trust me on this...and electric tape.
1).. Disconnect the battery.. just do it.. please...so u can properly hook up your amp wire without being fried. also while your in there, find a good place to mount your Fuse. make sure that its as close to the battery as possible and not on the battery...
2) on the same side as the battery, near where the strut tower/hood struts are should be a hole leading into the side finder of the car... remember that hole.
3).. On the inside of the drivers side of your car, remove the kick panel on the left side from under your fuse box/hood open level area... might be a bolt in there but its not hard to take out...then pull back your carpet.. follow the cable wire for the hood release and u will feel a rubber grommet. work at it a bit to remove it from the firewall.
4).... the step no one meantions. Located over top of the drivers side front wheel well is a panel to protect from rain, water, whatever. If u can see, its held in by screws (phillips) and your push pin "snap" holders (flathead..). The screws run along the outside of the wheel well.. the push pins more so on the inside... use your car jack the car up a few inches in order to fit your screw driver inbetween the wheel and the screw.. if you have a extremely short screwdriver you might not have to use the jack at all, or will have to jack up the car only a little bit... you do not have to have the wheel off the ground! if it makes u feel better, you can remove the wheel, but honestly its not nessary.
5) Once there is space between the wheel and the wheel well, remove the screws on the outside of the wheel well starting from the right.. the mud guard area all the way up to either 12'o clock on the wheel or 11 (put your screws in a safe place!!!) then using the flathead screw driver CAREFULLY remove the put pins by placing the flathead on top of the pop in/pop out part.. NOT the outer ring! the plastic is old and honestly will break..
6) once screws are removed, pull the panel down. you will THEN see 2 rubber grommets leaving into the cabin, and u will see the hole i was refering to in step 2 leading into your engine bay.
- If you are going to be using 10- to 8 gauge wire, Use the smaller grommet leading into the engine bay. anything bigger, use the larger one.
Remove the grommet from the hole, and using your knife, carefully cut into the grommet. if using the bigger one, u might not be able to remove it, but u still will have to cut into it. Run the wire thru the hole and pull it out thru the other side. IF YOU HAVE EVERYTHING PROPERLY MEASURED, reuse the grommet, wrap it around your amp wire and the hood release cable and tape it back up with the electrical tape. do the same on the other side within the finder with that grommet and make sure u tape up your amp wire in the area where it runs thru the hole of the engine bay in order to avoid chafting.
Now you have ran your amp wire!
Replace your Wheel Well panel, Replace screws, lower car... and now you can go on and run your other wires!
*Make sure all wires go UNDER the carpet and that there are NO pinch Points! Just remove plastic from bottom of the door, then slide your carpet out..*
Remote Turn on - Connect it to the same wire that controls your Antenna.. blue to blue baby..
Speaker Wire/Audio plugs.. Run it on the OPPOSITE side of the vehicle!
Ground - There are various points that you can run your ground. Seatbelt Bolt, Rear Strut Bolt, or even gettin a screw and bolt and using one of the random holes in the trunk in order to ground it.. but whatever you choose remeber to SAND DOWN THE PAINT! thats the only way u will get a good ground! your gonna need the contact of METAL on METAL... and Make sure you connect ALL of your wires BEFORE you reconnect your battery!
THINGS TO REMEBER!!!
1) Measure your amp wire! cause once you cut, thats it!
2)Use the electrical tape to one- Tape back up the area you cut into the grommet ...reuse the grommet, Tape it back together and tape up your amp wire in key areas, i.e. the hole leading into the engine bay and the hole....
3) dont lock your doors or close your trunk and leave all tools/materials OUTSIDE of the car! its no fun to keep rehooking back up stuff just to get the dang screwdriver out of the trunk...
4) keep track of everything that your doing- where your materials are, where you place tools and screws..
Feel Free to ask any questions.. and GOOD LUCK!
Last edited by DomoMaxima98; 08-26-2008 at 11:40 AM.
08-26-2008, 11:36 AM
#4
08-26-2008, 11:44 AM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
Did you check out his sig?
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3042878
HEADUNIT 9311ts | KD NX5000
FRONT STAGE 2 RF P400-4 | 2 RSD 6.5s | 4 Selenium Super Tweeters| 8 PowerBass 6.5s
THE BASS 2 FI BTL 18's | PG 8V Line Driver | Clarion 7 Band EQ| 2 GP3000d's | Xquizite Konceptz(me) Wall @ 30hzELECTICAL Mechman 250amp alt | 4 Runs of Knu 1/0 | HC2000 under the hood | 4 DC LFB 2000's
"GET LOUD OR DIE TRYIN"
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3042878
HEADUNIT 9311ts | KD NX5000
FRONT STAGE 2 RF P400-4 | 2 RSD 6.5s | 4 Selenium Super Tweeters| 8 PowerBass 6.5s
THE BASS 2 FI BTL 18's | PG 8V Line Driver | Clarion 7 Band EQ| 2 GP3000d's | Xquizite Konceptz(me) Wall @ 30hzELECTICAL Mechman 250amp alt | 4 Runs of Knu 1/0 | HC2000 under the hood | 4 DC LFB 2000's
"GET LOUD OR DIE TRYIN"
Last edited by eng92; 08-26-2008 at 11:46 AM.
12-06-2011, 02:34 PM
#8
If your thinking about adding a sub and amp to your audio system then your best bet is to go with an aftermarket head unit that has numerous pre-outs and also has at least a 24bit processor. The aftermarket head unit will be better capable of powering aftermarket coaxial speakers(not so much components) if you decide to add those in as well. Swap out the stock head unit and the process of hooking up a sub and amp will go alot smoother than working with the stock HU/Amp. TRUST ME LOL. If you have any other question do not hesitate to ask. My mission is to insure everybody can enjoy car audio and not spend an entire pay check
12-06-2011, 03:47 PM
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
09-27-2015 09:53 PM
conansriver
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
13
09-03-2015 06:38 AM