So I've had my components since the beginning of this year, thanks to Don. I haven't had the time to tackle my own car from work and everyone else's installs getting in my way. I finally set aside the time and started working on the rest of my setup (trunk). It's coming along nicely and I'm not quite finished with it yet. I was going to wait till it was all completed before I posted anything up, but I'm not so sure when that's going to happen. Hopefully soon in the next few weeks, but it has started getting too cold to do much, so I have to wait for warm days and do a little at a time. So far, I've spent about 3 weeks off and on with the trunk and it's starting to look like a trunk again......kinda.

I'm not going to take up server space with all my pics, but you're welcome to go to my site and check them out. Here's the direct link and a teaser pic. Enjoy!

StreetImageSound.com

-p

 

Nice work. Can't wait to see the final product.

 

No chance I am going to click on all those pics. I am sure it looks nice though.

 

hm

 

 

 

Bout time you got started focker !!

 

Looking good, now hurry about a get a space heater and finish it up!
You'll need to add the custom a/v input panel to your list of pics.

 

I'm meeting up with Russ tomorrow, and we're putting on my Wilwood BBK, H&R Spacers, and Tein SS Coilovers. I'll get it from him then. It's-a gonna be sweet!

 

Who you be tellin?

 

so where do you put your spare?

 

Under the workbench in my garage. I haven't ran with a spare since I've bought the car. With the 19's on and as much of a drop as I have, and will soon have, the measly bicycle spare is of no use to me.

 

same here

install looks liek it's coming along great! can't wait to see the finished product!

 

wow nice install, I have the same cold cathodes sitting in my garage(yet to be installed), nice clean work on the battery terminals and wiring, how thick is your false floor? that setup looks good, is that Kicker hyper flex wire? how are the fuse holders "attached" to the side of the battery? How are the other oe wires added to the battery in the wiring?(I don't see them, slick install on concealing them) did you etch(sand, the sides of the plexi, for the cold cathodes to glow all around it? I see a lot of hard word applying the sound deadening to the trunk floor(took me 6 hours to do mine), and more great attention to detail on the holes drills for the rcas and wire runs along with the small tyraps to hold the wire down.....great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks man! Aesthetically clean is my goal, and unfortunately it takes a little longer andmore attention to detail when aiming for that, when all I want is for it to be done so I can enjoy it. It'll be worth all the time in the end hopefully. I also really have no other choice but to create my setup like this since it's my demo car to be used to promote my installs. I'm not as big as Don, and most all of my installs are local. I rely mainly on word of mouth and my work.

The floor is 3/4" particle board. I wanted something lighter but that meant thinner, and I already started the project with this. The wiring is 0 gauge Stinger Expert Oval Wire which provides the most flexibility. The rest of the wiring throughout the car is Stinger HPM, and the RCA's are Expert as well. I chose to go with the best despite cost since I'm only doing this once, and trying to do it right. The fuse holders are attached via 3M red backing heavy duty tape to prevent coming off unlike other adhesives. One of the power wires run directly to the OEM + terminal and is connected via a 0 gauge power ring with massive amounts of electrical tape wrapping the old terminal. That is all tucked away under the battery. I did not replace the OEM terminal completely in order to retain the fuse that was already attached to it. The 2nd + wire routes directly to the alternator as a extra additive. Overkill? yes, but that's what I chose to do.

For the Plexiglas, I had the logos cut out on a thin sheet of rubber-like adhesive paper and mounted to the glass and then it was sandblasted lightly. The edges of the glass were then polished to a clear so that light can pass through it (cold cathodes). I'm hoping that it turns out amazing when it's all said and done.

The wiring in the front was clean, so of course I wanted to do the same for the amp base in the trunk. This was the cleanest solution that I came to and liked the best. Hopefully, this project will be over with soon, and I can move on to something else. It's been a long time coming so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Another goal is to have a usable trunk and to keep the weight down as much as possible. My sub box is made mainly of fiberglass and paint matched to the car. It's a small box to conserve space and have tighter lows. All the components were chosen carefully to fit my allotted budget to offer the most clarity at any level of volume. Stay tuned for the finished product.

 

Well stop typing and get back to work !!

I also may have a few ideas for ya, gimme a call when your free.


Oh and going with the Best? Stinger? Step up with the big boys my friend ...

http://www.stealthaudiocables.com/products/ai.htm

 

wow holy price tag Batman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

those cables are NICE

 

ok ok, let me rephrase. I went with the best that Stinger had to offer. I will call you this week.

 

holy rip off batman. there is no way those are worth the price they are asking.

i used to be friends with an audio engineer. he told me this story about in the mid 90s they had all these 'experts' in the industry at their lab. they then proceeded to play a piece of music 7 times over only changing the interconnects. each time the 'experts' were asked to talk amongst themselves and to write down what they thought about how the music sounded. each time they played the music a different type of interconnect was being used. from lamp wire, no joke lamp wire, to this crazy conductor that had to be submerged in nitrogen because it wasn't stable at room temperatures while operating. the test goes on and all the experts say this or that about how the music changed and what they liked/disliked about each different interconnect. At the end they ask them all what they thought and they all voiced their final opinions. The guys who were putting on this 'experiment' then proceeded to explain to them that the entire time it was lamp wire and nothing had been changed once. He told me the look on their faces was priceless as they made it all up in their minds that the music had changed when honestly it was the same each time.

not to say that you shouldn't use 'good' RCAs but the difference in sound from 'good' RCAs to these uber expensive carbon nanotube cables is extremely small. yes can you prove in a lab that it transfers the signal 'slightly' more accurately? probably. but can you hear the difference? probably not. the difference from crap to 'good' rcas is MUCH larger, but again if you're not getting interference it'll sound pretty damn similar.

also a balanced line input doesn't need a 'super duper cable'. If you understand how they work, buying super expensive ones is a COMPLETE joke. http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/ampin...d/balanced.htm <--for more reading if you're interested.

sorry don but i hate people believing just because it costs the most it's the best. i know you wern't doing that, just simply showing what was out there for high end cables.

 

Then Im sorry too that one would subscribe to me thinking that way.

 

you're friends story sure does sound a lot like this article from earlier this year:

http://www.engadget.com/2008/03/03/a...ter-cable-and/

i think an important consideration is the environment. testing something in a lab is a lot different than a car application where emi becomes a huge issue. try running the lamp wire/coat hanger test in a car and i bet it will be painfully obvious. to me the name of the game is shielding.

ohhh... and $6k for ~3 feet is ridiculous.

 

I cant argue there, to make matters worse look at the speaker cable. However try convincing home audiophiles otherwise.

 

wow... that's insane, but honestly... if i had the money... i'd be the kind of guy who would buy them. if i could even consider spending $10k on speaker wire all it would take is "this is .001% better" to convince me.

on a realistic level you have to consider cost vs. gain, but that stuff is definitely not marketed to people who live in my reality.

if you got it to spend and the goal is perfection, why not?

 

The best thing about it is, that company is surely doing well and profiting.