Signal too low. Amp connected to stock radio.
Signal too low. Amp connected to stock radio.
Yeah, I've searched and found nothing but broken links in the stickies.
Hello, I have a problem where it seems that the input signal from the stock radio is too low. Can an equalizer be used to increase the signal that the amp receives? http://tinyurl.com/equalizer911
My setup is a 99 i30 with an 05 pathfinder Bose deck. The amplifier is an Alpine mrd-m300 (300w rms) and a kicker 10" compvt sub (400 rms).
I used the Fsm and tapped the RCA directly from the line to the rear speakers before the stock amp. I also used the red fat wire as a remote to turn on my alpine amp. That works well.
This amp use a digital screen to setup the amp. I have everything maxed so I can get decent base only certain music in the certain frequencies that I am able to boost.
Is it my amp that is broken or underpowering the subs? The song Beging by Madcon hits decent while I can't even tell that I have it installed with most rock songs.
Edit for those who have this issue. I did purchase a line driver and used the rear amp turn on signal to power it but it has insane engine noise in the rear speakers where the line driver is spliced. I ended up disconnecting the rear speakers. I use the fader function as a bass control now. It actually still sound good. The back speakers aren't really needed.
Hello, I have a problem where it seems that the input signal from the stock radio is too low. Can an equalizer be used to increase the signal that the amp receives? http://tinyurl.com/equalizer911
My setup is a 99 i30 with an 05 pathfinder Bose deck. The amplifier is an Alpine mrd-m300 (300w rms) and a kicker 10" compvt sub (400 rms).
I used the Fsm and tapped the RCA directly from the line to the rear speakers before the stock amp. I also used the red fat wire as a remote to turn on my alpine amp. That works well.
This amp use a digital screen to setup the amp. I have everything maxed so I can get decent base only certain music in the certain frequencies that I am able to boost.
Is it my amp that is broken or underpowering the subs? The song Beging by Madcon hits decent while I can't even tell that I have it installed with most rock songs.
yeah, I didn't know that line drivers existed. After further research on audio forums I found out about the pacs turbo1 line driver and purchased one. That actually caused another problem though but I haven't really have time to mess with it's gains so I'll see tomorrow.
It has lots of alternator noise. It's powered up by the remote turn on which is hooked to the rear stock amp power cable.
Thanks.
It has lots of alternator noise. It's powered up by the remote turn on which is hooked to the rear stock amp power cable.
Thanks.
Last edited by EsQueue; Sep 24, 2009 at 11:17 PM.
Did you try all this?
1) Safe Mode is on: Go to Step 9 (Mode 9 on the amp) and set to “OFF”, then cycle
2) Subsonic and LPF frequency selections overlap or are too close together:
3) If using RUX-4280 (RACC) remote subwoofer level is turned down
display mode (voltage or temperature) and adjust the level control.
4) Defective or broken RCA cables): Replace RCA connectors
5) Blown fuse: Replace Fuse with proper value
6) Remote trigger is not active: Check remote turn-on lead with a voltage meter
7) Bad ground or power connection: Check and replace ground connector
Typical causes for little or no output
1) Safe Mode is on: Go to Step 9 (Mode 9 on the amp) and set to “OFF”, then cycle
2) Subsonic and LPF frequency selections overlap or are too close together:
3) If using RUX-4280 (RACC) remote subwoofer level is turned down
display mode (voltage or temperature) and adjust the level control.
4) Defective or broken RCA cables): Replace RCA connectors
5) Blown fuse: Replace Fuse with proper value
6) Remote trigger is not active: Check remote turn-on lead with a voltage meter
7) Bad ground or power connection: Check and replace ground connector
Typical causes for little or no output
Did you try all this?
1) Safe Mode is on: Go to Step 9 (Mode 9 on the amp) and set to “OFF”, then cycle
2) Subsonic and LPF frequency selections overlap or are too close together:
3) If using RUX-4280 (RACC) remote subwoofer level is turned down
display mode (voltage or temperature) and adjust the level control.
4) Defective or broken RCA cables): Replace RCA connectors
5) Blown fuse: Replace Fuse with proper value
6) Remote trigger is not active: Check remote turn-on lead with a voltage meter
7) Bad ground or power connection: Check and replace ground connector
Typical causes for little or no output
1) Safe Mode is on: Go to Step 9 (Mode 9 on the amp) and set to “OFF”, then cycle
2) Subsonic and LPF frequency selections overlap or are too close together:
3) If using RUX-4280 (RACC) remote subwoofer level is turned down
display mode (voltage or temperature) and adjust the level control.
4) Defective or broken RCA cables): Replace RCA connectors
5) Blown fuse: Replace Fuse with proper value
6) Remote trigger is not active: Check remote turn-on lead with a voltage meter
7) Bad ground or power connection: Check and replace ground connector
Typical causes for little or no output
Thanks,
checked 1,2,4,5,and 7 and they are ok
3 is N/A but haven't checked 6 though, the amp turns on but I haven't checked it's voltage.
Most of the above are not applicable. If #6 was bad, then the amp would not turn on.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
Most of the above are not applicable. If #6 was bad, then the amp would not turn on.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
Which most of them do these days...
Most of the above are not applicable. If #6 was bad, then the amp would not turn on.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
You can look for a generic line driver like PACs Turbo1. An 'eq' in this case would yield little to no results. There would be only one band (if any) that could be boosted and it would still remain minimal.
It has lots of alternator noise. It's powered up by the remote turn on which is hooked to the rear stock amp power cable.
Thanks.
So if I read this correctly, you stated that you tapped the RCA's directly to the rear speakers, so I am assuming you don't have a line output converter. I'd recommend going to Best Buy and purchasing a line output converter by a company called Install Edge. The model is IEC AULOC, and it's roughly ~$25. You should be able to get it from the car audio department, and if not one of the guys will get the installer to bring it up from the install bay.
So if I read this correctly, you stated that you tapped the RCA's directly to the rear speakers, so I am assuming you don't have a line output converter. I'd recommend going to Best Buy and purchasing a line output converter by a company called Install Edge. The model is IEC AULOC, and it's roughly ~$25. You should be able to get it from the car audio department, and if not one of the guys will get the installer to bring it up from the install bay.
And yes, actually reading the thread correctly.
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