I did a direct swap on my 2k2 SE on the front door speakers. I removed the stock speakers, spliced the wire, connected up to the crossover then ran wire to my mid and tweet. It sounded great, then one day I thought it did not sound right and faded...balanced and realized my front left was barely working. The front right is ok, but does not sound 100%. I checked my wires and they are fine. The stock upgraded bose HU runs 2 ohms to the front mids, I think. If so, what the He#@ happened?

Anyone?

NOTE - I just purchased an Alpine 4x90w to power the doors (not installed yet). I just hope I did not ruin my MB's with the factory HU/amp.

 

I'm not sure exactly what you did here. Were you using the amp when the speaker went bad?

The Bose system is a complicated, integrated system. You can't just replace the speakers with their own b/c the speakers, from what I hear, are anywhere from 1/2 ohm to 2 ohms. If this is true, from what I've heard, you are not the only one to fry a speaker by trying this. If you were using the alpine amp...well, I'm not sure what happened, b/c I don't know how you went about hooking it up.

Tony

 

I don't know how the 2k2 Bose system works, but previous generations of Maxima had a 1-ohm Bose system. If you try to power aftermarket 4-ohm speakers with the Bose amps, you will not fry the speaker (except maybe with distortion) because the amp will be putting out only about ¼ of its normal power, compared to running the Bose speakers. Tell us if you were using the Bose amps or the Alpine amp. The Alpine amp will work well with the MB Quarts, so if you were using the Alpine amp when the problem occured, there is some other problem.

 

I remember reading on another thread not to long ago about someone else that fried their after-market 4-ohm speakers when they swapped them with the Bose speakers. It doesn't make a lot of sense and I totally agree with what you just said about the amp running 1/4 of the power....but it seems like too much of a coincidence. Weird.

Tony

 

I know from his other posts that EHUGHES simply did a driver swap. He did not replace the OEM Bose amp. I don't understand why this would burn out his drivers unless the amp was "EXTREMELY" noisy to the extent that the V/C was damaged.

EHUGHES, try doing a test by wiring up the the Bose mid/woofer in that door and see what happens. Then you'll know if it's the driver or the amp. My guess is that the amp burnt out but I'm not too sure why.

If it was the amp, and you want to keep the stock head, you will need to use a special adapter. I am only aware of three converters that might work properly with the signal direct from the head unit, check out these links:

LOCB Converter http://www.soundgate.com/adj-loc.html

or

MFI-55 http://www.pie.net/sec12sb4.htm

or

http://www.linkmeup.com/pd4.html

I don't know which one is best, but let us know which one you choose and how it works for you when you wire up the new AMP. Good luck!

 

Thanks ABS...


Yes I did a direct swap. As you all have alluded to, it seems that the ohm difference would have only resulted in a lower amp output from the factory amp. The sound was very clear, even at full volume. I will probably check the stock speaker tonight. I was so frustrated, that I just bought a new amp, and another set of MB's for the rear ! I started the install this weekend...running new wire sucks ! But that is done. I just have to mount my amp! I already have a PD-4 supplying the signal to a sub amp. I will use this for the signal to my new Alpine.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will let you know what went wrong.