I'm trying pick a sealed box for my JL 12w6v2 sub.

JL's site lists these sealed box specs:
1.25 cu. ft. / 18 in. x 14 in. x 12.75 in.

Does that mean the box has 1.25 cu. ft. empty? (BEFORE the sub is installed?)

I'm looking at a pre built (3/4" MDF) scosche se12 enclosure. Volume is listed at 1.25 cu. ft. I was going to build my own but I like this enclosure for its angled back so it sits against the back seat. It has good reviews what do you think? Same volume so it'll sound the same right?

 

I switched to a ported box and the difference is night and day. The bass is so much better, if i were you I would go ported. I was one that said that I wanted a seal box but now I'm glad I went ported. TRUST ME......

 

1.25 after displacement.

 

sealed=best and clearest sound; ported=good sound/little more bass; bandpass=muffled sound quality, TONS of bass!

box design is more important than most people realize and there's tons to be researched on the topic. it's all in what you want. the way my box is designed my 10" sub sounds amazing inside the vehicle but you don't hear it much outside of the car. that's all i need.

if it's just for YOUR listening pleasure, sealed with recomended air space. if you NEED everyone else to hear your stuff (which i personally find annoying and hate), ported or bandpass. should also mention, if space is an issue, you're going to get the most compact enclosures in a sealed format.

 

all bandpasses arent completely muffled though, i've heard a few bandpasses that were done right...and actually sounded pretty decent.

 

you're right of course. however, this is all about sound waves and different sub sizes give you a slightly different sound. an 8" is crisper as it can move more quickly (most OEM systems w/ sub have ~6"); a 12" on the other hand is better for those deeper lows as it moves more air with each cycle. i find a 10" to be a pleasant compromise, but that's just me.

a properly tuned bandpass designed for a 12", for example, can sound just as good as a 12" in a sealed box, because at this point you're into big bass and are just moving a lot of air.

10" and smaller are more for sound, giving you more of that extra little oomph, than straight-up heart-stopping goodness.

 

an 8 won't necessarily sound crisper than a 12. the sub's size doesn't really affect its cone speed. most subs today are designed with very strong motors, so the size of the cone is almost negligible.

but yes you're right about the larger cone is able to accentuate the lower freq better than smaller drivers.

 

I would just build one based on the JL specs and you will get the best results. Remember when building to calculate the thickness of the 3/4 inch mdf. The measurements are the outside of the box and the volume is without the sub (JL always measures their enclosures in gross amount (before sub installation)).
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lp4SSUa..._building.html
here is a good tutorial.
You can save a good amount of money. You can also play around with the dimensions and keep the volume the same but make it wider and shallower (just make sure you maintain a good mounting depth). Best of luck. I recommend sealed too. It is a lot cleaner sounding and saves a good amount of space. This may just be my opinion by i think sealed subs last longer because they are not battling against the air pressure.

 

actually it's "battling" quite a bit of pressure inside a sealed box.

sealed boxes are a little more forgiving on power handling though, which can definately affect the longevity of the sub.

 

Sup ascendant, long time no "see"


you can build a quality ported enclosure that will be more efficient on power handling, provide higher output, as well as be able to play as low as you desire (Although you will more than likely give up a little VOLUME to tune lower.


What types of music do you listen to, how much space do you want to give up, how much power do you have on hand? THose are the most important questions.

If your lookin for a decent amount of output without giving up the entire trunk then stick with what you have. If you feel that the sub in that enclosure needs a little bit more room, you can always just stuff the box with polyfill.

 

and holy crap dude, it's been a long time! how ya been?

 

Argh. I'm conflicted.
My setup:
Pioneer 780mp head unit
DLS UP6 Comps up front amp'd by alpine pdx 2.150
Stock rears
Alpine MRD M501 digital sub amp. (550 watt rms)

The 12w6v2 is currently in a ported box. I bought it that way off an auction site. I tried measuring and it looks a little smaller than JL's spec ported box. I think I'll just go ahead and build the sealed box to spec and see how it sounds. What I'm looking for:
-'Tighter' bass. More 'punch'. Smoother mid bass transition. Not too concerned about loud i just want it to blend better, ALL about sq not spl. I have 55o RMS so I think I'm good for the sealed. The ported box looks beautiful, slot port and 'close' to spec BUT I'm itching to hear it sealed. Just sucks that I'll most likely toss the ported box, not really worth anything right?

 

Do you guys recommend the JL spec 1.25 cu. ft. for 'Punch' and smooth mid bass transition? I'll most likely have it built in a week or 2 then report results. I used to love 'loud'. Must be getting old because now I want 'accurate'.

I listen mostly to alternative and rock. I'll listen to stuff like black eyed peas and other hip hop/rap but not as often.

 

yep, i would go ahead and do a sealed box then if you're not too concerned with output.

 

go with sealed then like ascendant mentioned.