I've seen a few popping up on ebay for pretty cheap:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Maxim...item53e94bd498
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Maxim...item415e50192c
Any thoughts on these? Worth a try?

 

If it seems too good to be true....

 

Well the sellers have pretty good ratings; that tells me it's legit so some extend. I wouldn't be too sure about the actual output of them though

 

ya...I need to replace my alternator and Nate at excessive told me it's $170 just to fix it (it's 180A) And he said if I wanted to have him build it up towards 200A, it will be $270...these seem like a cheap alternative, so I might buy one.

 

I can almost guarantee that they don't do what they claim, and are probably awful at idle.

 

the seller claims 110A idle, and 200A cuts on @ 1500RPM...not too bad if you ask me. And I'm just throwing these up on here because I'ts not very often you see these goin so cheap, but to each his own.

 

hmmm this is interesting to say the least, seems like a good option.

 

What kind of systems are you guys running that you think you need a HO Alt?

 

What he said... My stock alternator would charge 70A at idle. With my old system at full tilt (about 2500w RMS), it was only pulling about 50A constant with very short peaks of 200A or so- the alternator was keeping up with the system even with the engine at idle.

Not sure why you think you need more alternator than that.... :shrug:

 

My lights are dimming I need more output!!!!!

Upgrade your wiring.

/thread.

 

http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternat...i-V%252d6.html

 

clipping aint cool. But since you ask:
Re xxx mids rainbow cal 25 tweets, three 12" RF punch HX2...I havent decided on amp yet and I might use an extra battery.
I'm going to ask for around 3,000 w RMS for headroom.

 

If it's clipping, then turn the volume down. Given proper size battery cable and a real capacitor (not one of those stupid BatCap thingies), any decent battery can supply >600A of current for short periods of time.
unless you're running sine waves at full power for 15minutes at a time, then you're not going to run the battery out of juice to run the system.

even my friends that did SPL competitions would run their system half the day without ever charging the batteries. I was an SQ guy for years and never had issues with my 2500W system on one battery w/ stock alternator, even at full volume for an hour at a time.

Overkill is one thing. wasting money is another. I'm trying to help you not waste money.

 

true...but have you seen some of these new amps out there? they are really power hungry! Isn't general rule of thumb one amp for every 100 watts of power? I just don't like the idea of sweating out the poor 110A stock alternator's rectifier diodes! Then poof!
There is a valid reason as to why ho alternators are on the market!
matt93se what systems did you and your friends run?

 

Just my 0.02 here, but the rule of 1 amp per 100 watt isn't really a rule. I used to work in car audio as well as compete and there's too many factors to really have a set of rules that always work. Alternator output vs power requirements of the stereo and car, number and quality of batteries, numer and quality of capacitors, etc.

For capacitors, it depends on the power supply in your amplifier, some amplifiers (like my JL HD series) have tightly regulated power supplies that will output the same power at 11v all the way to 14.4v. Basically, they'll play until the power cuts off, so using a capacitor in that situation doesn't really do much. I had one in my system originally because I had it laying around from a previous system, I ended up pulling it out with no side effect.

As far as the alternator, I had a 1,350w (JL HD/600 & HD/750) system running on my factory '09 alternator for a year without any major issue. I just installed a MechMan 270a and I have to tell you, you don't know what you're missing. Depending on how big you want to go, you can certainly just install a second battery to cushion the blow of large amplifiers, but there is no replacement for always having enough power. You're voltage is still going to fluctuate a little here and there, it happens. But if you live in a cold area like I do, you might not want to risk not having enough current to start your car. I had issues with my battery last winter and it had to hit the charger twice, I don't plan on doing that this winter. One last note, look in any audio competitors car and pop the hood, tell me if you don't see a big alternator or two. All the serious car audio guys tend to use batteries and alternators. Skip the band aid and if you're serious, get a better quality battery and high output alternator. You've got a 35K car, don't tinker with it.

If you do decide to do the alternator, get something worth owning. I have the MechMan and love it. Their customer service was top notch and the unit is impressive. In my case, it's a large case conversion alternator that puts out 270 amps. When you open the box, there's a tag hanging off of it with the bench test results showing you amperage at 14.4v at what RPM. It also comes with a 2 year warranty. Yes, it was $500 bucks, but it's totally worth it. I debated the eBay thing as well and just couldn't trust my daily driver to something with no quality guarantee.

Anyway, just my 0.02. Hope you find it helpful.

 

thanks but mechman is way too much, unless I hit the casino for a quick lick...it's happened b4.
I still have all the wiring from my old setup back in 06:
MMATS d200hc, two 12" treo SSI, and two PPI a300 under the front seats. During that time I was runnin an excessive aperage alternator, about 180A and it was good enough. but that alternator took a dive so I sent it back, but before I sent it back, it looked like a stock alternator on the inside! I kid you not...I pulled some Hitachi manufacture numbers but I couldn't find them on the Net...

 

My old setup was a PPI A1200.2 on subs, A404.2 bridged for midbass, A600.2 on mids, A200.2 on tweeters, and another A200.2 on rear fill.
Subs were three JL12W6, and the rest were a host of Focal components.
All that ran off the stock alternator with a single Optima yellow top and 2 farad capacitor in the trunk.

and it was good enough to get me on stage at IASCA finals when I used to compete.

After I totalled that car, I wanted to lose some weight, so I went with a pair of Focal 13" free-air subs and cut it back to just a 6.5" 2-way component set up front. I still fed that with the A1200.2, A600.2, and A200.2. Kept the same electrical system setup.


Back to your system... 99% of people simply don't need that much alternator. Amps are getting bigger, but they're also getting more efficient. In order to run a stereo loud enough to need that much power for more than a few minutes, you're going to be deaf in a year. (AMHIK. 33yrs old and I'm dealing with tinnitus already.)

IMO, you would be better off with a good >100AH battery and a capacitor or two and call it a day.

 

Hey Matt, wow, you had/have a pretty nice stereo!
Those older Art series are great! I got a couple a300 myself...
BTW do you still make that 300zx BBK?

 

I am running a JL 12w7, Hertz MLK 165 up front, ID components rear doors, Beyma M6 midbass in the rear deck and using JL 1000/1 and a JL 500/5. I am on stock alternator but i do have a stinger sp1200 in the rear trunk. No issues knock on wood, however, i do plan on adding a few more speakers and my other jl 450/4. I still dont think i need an alternator but we shall see when the other 8 speakers get added, i meay even add a couple more 1000/1 but lets see what the winter holds for me

 

I still have all of the stuff, I just don't drive the Maxima anymore. bought a G35 a few years ago and I'm leaving the stereo stock. I like having a trunk again and I tore up my ears bad enough with the old system it just doesn't matter any more.

And no, I don't make the brake stuff anymore. I just dont' have time and there's not enough money in it.

 

And do you think a G35 alternator would fit on a 4th gen Max?
way off topic but I'll pm you.
Hmax08 sounds like a nice audio setup

 

No idea on the alternator. They're both VQs, but that's about where the similarities stop. It's always worth a shot. See if you can find a pick-a-part that has both cars/engines in stock, then see if you can swap them there and make them fit. Would be cheaper than buying one to try and finding out it won't fit, then trying to convince the parts store to give you a refund.

 

Thank you, I am proud of it but am never satisified with what i have so I am always looking to upgrade, i am always torn between sq and spl

 

Voice of experience says if you do one, you won't be able to do the other for long. (I've got tinnitus at 33.... thought I was immune just like all the other guys that were building systems in high school and college.)
5+ years after I quit competing, I now lay awake at night listening to my ears ring...