Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I have not been around in a while, so I just thought I'll share:
Here is my front stage...
I am currently deciding whether to expand the enclosures a bit more because I have some room above them I figure why not use it. Putting these inside of doors was no easy task.
enjoy.

EsQueue

iTrader: (2)

Better than what I could accomplish and I bet it sounds bad ***.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

nice, i've always wanted to hear what those sound like. gotta love that xbl^2 goodness

why not just install it free-air instead of an enclosed chamber? where did you port it into?

cartman854

iTrader: (2)

Different door panel pieces.... cloth too leather? I like that mod better. But I bet those do sound amazing....

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Thanks u guys.
same door panels but I did the initial sound swap back in 2005, I just now decided to share it. I recently added the ports to see if the output was better, and decided to do the leather swaps at the same time.
It is better by far. I'm happy overall but I want to do an active 3 way, but I need an older PPI xover. Or maybe adding caps to the proposed 3"-4" mids will eliminate the need for a new crossover.

Cant_Get_Ryte

iTrader: (52)

I have a few passive flowing around. Polk momo. dls nobelliums. And rainbow ca

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Remove the enclosure and mount them IB, they aren't meant to be in tiny enclosures like that without losing output. They will get much better and dig much lower if you remove the enclosures altogether, IMO.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

maybe I'll try that too!
I just like front stage really 'punchy', where it hits real good with not a lot of resonance through the door. The ports I think kind of contain the vibration from making the whole door 'thump' too hard but the ports send just enough into the door.
I want to try building a custom 2-3 speaker door pod but that will take some planning. I don't use the map holders in any door, so that's pretty good space for something

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

I think you'll have better results just by pulling the boxes out. After you do that, deaden, deaden, deaden, and you should not have to worry too much about vibrations/rattling.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

that port firing into the inside of the door wont serve much purpose, you'll be better off using them free-air with a fully deadened door.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I'm in the process of making another mount for these. I tweaked their angles so they are imaged upward toward the listeners' ears; you can see in the pics already posted that they are not at 90 degrees with the doors.
Once I cut new mdf rings, I will try the free air method.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Good thing about 3 gens is the door panel is 2 pieces. I just pulled the bottom half out and made a 1/2 ft^3 sealed enclosure for mine..
http://blehmco.com/pics/old_max/car_...or_pods/11.jpg

If you do free-air, make sure you insulate around the wires with foam or tape them to the door panels or something. first time I put decent power into my mids (when free-air), they rattled the door panels so bad it sounded like a Donk.. I eventually wound up taping them down with dynamat or whatever and putting foam around the parts I needed to be able to remove.

also do what you can to seal off the holes in the door skin. that made a HUGE difference in the 50-125hz range.


Still need an active crossover?
I have an oooold school Audio Control EQX still NIB if you need it.
time to start cleaning out the garage....

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

nice job i like the doors...looks like oem!
is it a 3 way active crossover?
compatible with the ppi a300? I run two under my front seats, usin the old ppi DIN alternate rca cords.
how much u askin anyhow?
btw, what holes in the door skin are you referring to?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I was referring to the holes in the sheet metal you use to get to the regulator and motor and such. if you're doing an IB setup in there, it's best to block all those off to separate the front from the rear of the driver better.
The upholstered door panel itself is big and floppy and doesn't really isolate the front and rear waves well. Isolating it via blocking the holes in the sheet metal did wonders for the midbass response on my stuff... Until I quit effing with the IB stuff and built those sealed enclosures for the doors. Only thing I ever used the map pocket for was trash anyway, so they were just wasted space.

I believe the EQT is a 2-way, and yes it's active. I'll have to pull it off the shelf and make sure it's actually an EQT. I know it's BNIB Audio Control and pretty sure its an EQT.

It only has RCA inputs, so the DIN stuff would require a custom harness- which isn't that hard really. I made a bunch of that stuff in the past since I didn't want to pay $100 each for quality RCAs. good shielded cable and connectors cost 1/10 that from a place like Parts Express or Madisound.