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Slight Trunk Light Dim (Sub & Amp)

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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
02SEMax's Avatar
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Slight Trunk Light Dim (Sub & Amp)

So as the title says I was showing a friend my sub today, i'm running an alpine MRP350 amp with a 10" RF HE2, and i noticed that my trunk light and license plate lights dimmed a bit when the sub hit. It only did it when i really cranked up the power ( loud volume+bass **** up), but i was still wondering if it was something to worry about or not. I checked my headlights and they were fine when this was happening. But i'd rather not ruin a battery if all it costs me to find out is the time i'm taking to type this post.

If this is an issue i should worry about, what would be the best course of action?

Thanks!
Old Nov 29, 2011 | 11:53 PM
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Grab a dmm and check your voltage drop. With that much power you should not have a problem. In addition bass ****=BAD unless it is a gain **** which I don't think it is,
Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricksi30
Grab a dmm and check your voltage drop. With that much power you should not have a problem. In addition bass ****=BAD unless it is a gain **** which I don't think it is,
It's a PAC rca controller **** that i have run to the sub out rcas on the back of my HU, so is that still bad?

This is the ****

Where would I check the voltage drop at? I think i can can get the multimeter, but i wouldn't know where to do the check
Old Nov 30, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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I had this problem with my first system and doing the 'big 3' upgrade fixed the dimming problem. Wasn't nothing huge it was sorta like the power you're running now. Consider it!
Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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I don't understand why everybody "thinks" they don't need a stiffening capacitor... Just go and buy a 1/2 farad cap... With that amp it should solve all your dimming problems... Or if you thinking about an upgrade in the future get a 1 farad... Every 500 watts RMS your amp give you should have a capacitor at 1 farad to compensate for the voltage draw... Such as I have a 1500W RMS amp, I went a little overboard and got a 5 farad cap... Hope this answers your question... Or just do what tseng said and do the big 3... But I would still get a cap. And your headlights will NEVER dim... The ballast regulate the power, they would just turn off at a very low voltage, like BELOW 9.5.
Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:37 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by tseng1023
I had this problem with my first system and doing the 'big 3' upgrade fixed the dimming problem. Wasn't nothing huge it was sorta like the power you're running now. Consider it!
It's my mom's car and if i tell her i gotta start getting in the engine bay and grounding wires so that my sub works she's gonna tell me to take it the hell out lol. But i do appreciate the advice

Originally Posted by Brudface
I don't understand why everybody "thinks" they don't need a stiffening capacitor... Just go and buy a 1/2 farad cap... With that amp it should solve all your dimming problems... Or if you thinking about an upgrade in the future get a 1 farad... Every 500 watts RMS your amp give you should have a capacitor at 1 farad to compensate for the voltage draw... Such as I have a 1500W RMS amp, I went a little overboard and got a 5 farad cap... Hope this answers your question... Or just do what tseng said and do the big 3... But I would still get a cap. And your headlights will NEVER dim... The ballast regulate the power, they would just turn off at a very low voltage, like BELOW 9.5.
I was thinking about getting a small cap, i saw a RF 1/2 farad for around $35 on sonicelectronix i believe. But i wasn't sure if this would be the best way to go as i've heard close to as many opinions not to get one as the opinions saying to get one
Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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Go and get one... It acts as a voltage regulator, so it puts "less" strain on your cars electrical system. I know there are a whole lot of stories about the pro's and con's of the capacitor, but there is usually a lot more pro's... When it comes down to it Most amps are rated for a voltage of 14.4, which is usually the maximum a car can give without adding anything else. Without a cap, your amp runs off of your battery, which your car is also drawing power from, a cap acts as a buffer. Plus also boosts minimal power to the amp... Some amps however are rated on there "birth sheets" at 12 volts, at 14.4 volts it will give more power... . Which is always good!!
Old Dec 1, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Brudface
Go and get one... It acts as a voltage regulator, so it puts "less" strain on your cars electrical system. I know there are a whole lot of stories about the pro's and con's of the capacitor, but there is usually a lot more pro's... When it comes down to it Most amps are rated for a voltage of 14.4, which is usually the maximum a car can give without adding anything else. Without a cap, your amp runs off of your battery, which your car is also drawing power from, a cap acts as a buffer. Plus also boosts minimal power to the amp... Some amps however are rated on there "birth sheets" at 12 volts, at 14.4 volts it will give more power... . Which is always good!!
+1

There is absolutely NO reason not to get one in your situation!
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