What type of battery are you running on?
02-19-2012, 01:56 PM
#1
What type of battery are you running on?
I see a lot of people with nice audio setups in their car & I know even though you have an alternator having a good battery along with that makes a huge difference. Also i'll be picking up a 5.5 Gen Maxima next month and want a nice system so like the title says, what type of battery are you running on?
02-19-2012, 02:08 PM
#2
I see a lot of people with nice audio setups in their car & I know even though you have an alternator having a good battery along with that makes a huge difference. Also i'll be picking up a 5.5 Gen Maxima next month and want a nice system so like the title says, what type of battery are you running on?
02-19-2012, 04:08 PM
#3
02-19-2012, 04:17 PM
#4
What is the difference between RedTop, YellowTop and BlueTop batteries?
RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.
Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics
YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.
Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles
BlueTop: The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.
Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery)
Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting
Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts.
If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery.
RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.
Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics
YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.
Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles
BlueTop: The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.
Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery)
Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting
Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts.
If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery.
02-21-2012, 10:36 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 325
02-22-2012, 02:21 PM
#11
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Stinger here, but not by first choice. The simplest and great option .. Sears DieHard Platinum. Usually readily available, they will put it in for free, great warranty, doesn't empty your pockets, etc. No shipping and no headaches if there is a problem.
02-28-2012, 04:57 PM
#16
03-02-2012, 10:08 PM
#17
Is there anything better than yellow top optimas. Im draining the **** out of it.... Been one week. Worked great for a year until I upped the power on my system and it drained it in a week.
03-03-2012, 11:16 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 325
I guarantee I've done 10x the builds you have. I didn't mean to start a pissing match but if you call me out I'm going to back myself up. My current build is going to consist of ~2600 RMS and will be four way active.
What are the specs on the box with the Orion's?
What are the specs on the box with the Orion's?
03-04-2012, 06:11 AM
#23
The question about building high power systems was the alternative to talking ****. I was asking instead of flaming or typing some smartass reply.
I didn't build the box (that was back when I was 18, almost 10 years ago), but the 12's are 2000 watts RMS each, don't remember what the 15 handled. This system set off car alarms on the side of the road, and made me think the rear-view was about to fall off. I went through 2 new batteries before I put in the power caps (2 caps, 1 farad each. Monster Cable brand with the digi readout).
The caps stopped the headlights from dimming whenever the bass hit, and kept me from going through another battery.
I didn't build the box (that was back when I was 18, almost 10 years ago), but the 12's are 2000 watts RMS each, don't remember what the 15 handled. This system set off car alarms on the side of the road, and made me think the rear-view was about to fall off. I went through 2 new batteries before I put in the power caps (2 caps, 1 farad each. Monster Cable brand with the digi readout).
The caps stopped the headlights from dimming whenever the bass hit, and kept me from going through another battery.
03-05-2012, 01:29 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 325
After I get my new alt I will be doubling power and cone area. My goal is 148+ while keeping my back seats usable. Also this will be a VERY good sounding system.
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