I like my stock speakers but I would like a little more bass. Adding one or two 10in subs would do the trick , i think. Throw them in the trunk and call it good.
How do I go about doing this. I dont want to replace my whole system, just put in some more sub.
Im riding in a 96 SE witha aftermarket Kennwood head unit (the bose head is not there).

i dont need anything to big at all, infact 10in subs may be too much, im not really sure. I dont want to spend too much on this. Just want a little more thump.

So how hard would this be? In terms of wiring, and what do you all think would be good? Ebay will most likly be the cheapest place to buy, i think...

Thanks

 

Shouldn't be too much trouble; if you buy a prefab box, all you've gotta do is run the wire. Power wire from the battery, RCA's and a turn-on lead from the head unit. Two 10's should do nicely for adding a little thump. Seems everybody on here has their own favorite sub, so go listen to some and buy what sounds good to you.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...item=488960836

:
Rockford Fosgate 12" PUNCH SUB DUTCH $49.00


This is a DUTCH AUCTION. Every Bidder Could Be a Winner. Once in a While Chance. JUST $49.00 will buy you All 2000 Model Brand New in Factory Sealed Box Subwoofer to rock your neighborhood. Need more than one, enter quantity requested in your bid. Punch Series Woofers Model: RFZ 1412 Features: *6 Layer, 1.5" Voice Coil *Aluminum Former *Foam Surround *Spruce Pulp Paper Cone *Hyper Extended Pole Piece *Aero Vent Base Plate Specifications: *Nominal Impedance 4 ohms *RE (DC resistance in ohms) 3.6 ohms *RMS/PEAK Power 100 watts / 200 watts *Sensitivity 90dB *FS (Hz) 28Hz *QMS 10.26 *QES 0.53 *QTS 0.49 *SD (Cone Area) 83.70 in2 *VAS (Cubic ft.) 4.451 *XMAX (inches) 0.28" *Voice Coil Diameter (inches) 1.5" *Mounting Depth (inches) 5 1/16”

"

for 49 bucks... then i need a box and wires. so i could probably get it all for like 150 or so.

ALso, where do you get boxes to put your subs in? Can i just use any old box, does it matteR?

 

Rememver you will also need an amp. for the subs. . . They can't be run of the head unit. It is typically best to try and listen to the sub and amp together to make sure you get the sound you want. There is so many different options out there, it is best to do some research and spend some time listening to what you want to put in.

 

A single 10 is all you need. That's less money, space, weight, and amp power. Anything more and you'll drown-out the stock speakers and potentially fry them and have to replace them, too. A single sub will put out plenty of bass, unless you're trying to hit 150db to win SPL competitions.

 

Will i still need a new amp if i get one 10in sub?
If i dont thats really good. Where can i install the sub, etC?

 

For any sub you get you will need an amp. Most subs will require more than 50W of power no matter what sub you get, and the head unit doen't typically have the power or a crossover on it. You need the amp to make sure that you only get the lower frequencies in the subwoofer, you don't want voices coming from it, also so that it will actually hit.

 

Ok,
I dont need a 600 dollar amp, though, do i? What kind of amp should i get for my purposes?
Thanks

 

how many amps and channles do i need? If im going to spend 60 for a crappy one, when i i can get somthing with more amps/channles for 20 bucks Ill do that, just incase i want to upgrade latter...
And i dont have to replace my whole system to do this, right?

 

It depends on the sub you get. . . You would probably only need a 1 or 2 Channel amp, depending on which one is cheaper, that gives you between 100W and 200W I think. . . It depends on the sub you want to push it with. I recommend figuring out which sub you want and figuring out what the power handling is for it. While you don't need the maximum power to go to the sub, you should get something that has enough power to make it sound how you want. You probably might want to look at something like an MTX amp or something. They seem to be pretty cheap for what you get and a lot of people seem to like them. I am sure others can give you better ideas as what you should look for.

 

An amp for what you are using will be at most $150, that is is you go with a pretty good one. . . I think it should more than likely be around $100 though. You probably will end up with a 2 channel amp that is bridged to get the most power out of it.

 

An no you don't need to replace any other part of your system to do this. . .You will probably have to pay for installation though if it isn't included in the price.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...item=489980221

How about these subs? 2 10inchers already in abox.

And should installation take like an hour or so?

 

nick robinson ...
mods:10' sub
HOLY ****!! You'll blow the hell out of anything within a mile! hahhah LOL PEACEE

 

You probably wouldn't want the super tweeters with it. . . They would be pretty pointless in the trunk. . . Also it doesn't say who the subs are by. . . If I were you I would try to go with a brand name sub, but I'm sure these would do the job. Also, you know 2 10" subs will get pretty loud right? A good rule of thumb is to have the total power going to the subs equaling the total power going to the interior speakers. . . It will normally give you a really good balance.

 

how much louder are 2 10"s compared to 2 12"s?? Thanks. PEACEE

 

btw, my fried just got 3 MTX 10"s and a MTX amp to power them. not sure about the exact model number of the amp or subs. The bass isnt really there compared to systems ive heard before. I think he might have had it adjusted to a lower setting perhaps? Isn't there a way to adjust the output? on some amps? I'm just a newbie at the audio stuff. Thanks. PEACE

 

2 12's should be a lot louder than 2 10's, but it all depends on how they are powered and such.

As for your friend's system, you could try adjusting the gain on that amp, which might be the problem. Also, his deck might have a sub output control and it might be turned down. You would adjust this buy finding the setting for it under the same place you would find stuff for Bass, Treble, ect. Normally it will say SUB or something like that. Typically 3 10's should really hit, but it depends on the box, the amp powering it, and the direction the subs are facing in some cases.

 

thanks for the info. ive read on this board that the best way to get maximum bass is to face them towards the front of the car, not outwards like it normally is. I want max bass and appearance. I think I'll go with the closed box when I get my system and face them outward. Thanks again. PEACEEE

 

No problem. . . Just make sure you get subs that are able to be used for that sort of purpose. . . Some of them can't be and need a sealed enclosure to operate or you will damage the speaker

 

thanks again. The box I saw houses 2 12" subs. It totally encloses the subs, there is no way to touch them after putting them in b/c half of it's covered by plexiglass or something. looks pretty good and sounds functional to me too. Have you had any experience with these types of boxes? Is that what you meant by sealed enclosure? sorry for bein so ignorant. someday i'll know enough .. haha peace

 

Ok, so ill get the kind of crappy, but cheap subs for like 50, then a simple amp for like 75. Thats not bad. So then I should take it to my local radio palce and have them install? What do you do w/ the subs. I mean i dont want them just flying around in the trunk, how do you secure them?

 

Well, you don't just lay the sub into the trunk. You have to put it into an enclosure (probably sealed for your purposes). Then the enclosure can be bolted down.

 

I think you are talking about a bandpass enclosure. You don't want that (especially not a universal one). Get a sealed enclosure for a sub that's designed for it.

 

yea, the one it recommended a couple type of subs for the actual glass covered box or bandpass enclosure or whatever it is. Does it muffle the sound? FOr what reason was it invented for then? confused ... thanks for the info. PEACEE

 

A bandpass enclosure allows only a certain band of frequencies to be generated. It is tuned for a certain note, and is very efficient and very loud at that one note, but has far less output away from that note. So a bandpass enclosure might be good for winning an SPL contest, but they typically sound bad for regular listening because they don't produce all of the lower frequencies evenly. So, again, get a sealed enclosure. Most subs work well in sealed enclosures, as long as the volume is within the specs of the sub.

 

Im getting those 2 10in subs, that already come in a case for 40 bucks. Someone said that i might blow my speakers if i get more than a 10in sub... am i going to blow my speakers with these 2 10in subs?

It turns out my car doesnt have the stock bose speakers, they are panisonic....

 

Just be careful with the volumes you use with your stock speakers. When they say you might blow your stock speakers, they mean you may get temped to turn it up loud and not realize there is distortion. Just make sure you keep the sound level in reason.

 

If you want to add subs you'll need:

Subwoofers
Box
Amplifier
Wiring Kit - Power Wire, Ground Wire, RCA's, Fuse, Speaker wire, Turn on wire
Installer - Unless you want to put it in

 

Hey, if you're thinking about placing a "cheap" audio system inside your maxima, you are about to make a big mistake that you will most likely regret a couple months down the road. I'm not going to criticize you, or any of the information that maxima.org members have given you, but you seem a little confused in your posts. There are a few facts that you have to keep in mind when installing audio into YOUR maxima.
1. A maxima is a japanese sedan, designed to be quiet ride. There are noise inhibiting fabrics and materials lining the trunk and back seat (and all around the interior of the car) that prevent road noise from being heard out of the trunk and rear-wheelwells. Two 10" subwoofers in a sealed box (in your trunk) would deliver the kind of bass reinforcement that you are looking for, but will also give you the option to crank the bass WAY up while not abusing the subwoofers by exceeding their ability.
2. ALL subwoofers need power delivered to them by a power amplifier. Now, genreally speaking (there are some extraneous expections), subwoofers are installed in three types of enclosures (sealed, ported, bandpass), and can be either powered or unpowered:
a. self powered enclosures, also referred to as stand alone, or "powered", meaning that the subwoofer and amplifier are built into the same phsycial piece of material. A popular brand is BAZOOKA, infinity recently released a self-powered 10" subwoofer. The advantage to these is that there is no guess work involved. You go to the store and buy one, and have them install it (usually about $100-$150, materials included). The amplifier is delivering the correct amount of power (watts) to the subwoofer(s) at the propper impedance (ohms), and it comes straight from the store, no assembly required. I suggest this type to you because of the ease of use.
b. unpowered. that simple. the subwoofers and amplifier are NOT built into the same enclosure. These types of boxes/encolures involve more freedom in selecting which subwoofer of what size you want to have. There is a little bit of math work involved in having the correct amplifier matched for the correct subwoofers. If you do not know the math involved, i suggest you get a self-powered subwoofer(What's sealed, ported, bandpass?) The difference is:
Sealed enclosures have only the subwoofer basket (the round part of the sub that you see when you pick it up) exposed. There are no ports, other sections of the enclosure. This enclosure delivers the clearest, cleanest, and tightest bass response out of the 3.
Ported enclosures have the same design as sealed, except that they have ports (holes) that allow air passage b/w the inside of the enclosure and the open air. These enclosures offer the LOUDEST bass response. Note, loud is different from hard hitting. Do you want hard hitting bass, or loud bass?
Bandpass boxes are designed completely different. The subs are not exposed to the open air, they are contained inside the enclosure (usually a piece of fiberglass is added so that you can see the subs). This enclosure offers hard hitting bass response, but is also the dirtiest and "bleh-ish" sounding of the 3.
Now that you know a little more about subwoofer audio, i suggest you re-think your plan. There is a big difference b/w "cheap" and "inexpensive", get me? I suggest you go to a local car audio specialist. Go to a circuit city, a WIZ, a Best Buy, they'll most likely have a car audio section there. Check out the retail brands and their prices.
Waiting a little bit of time so you can save up enough cash for an inexpensive, quality system is a better choice than being impatient and ending up with lo-quality and cheap. You'll be reminded of your decision every time your climb into your maxima and turn the radio on.
My suggestion to YOU (not everyone) is to go with a self-powered subwoofer (you can order it out of crutchfield.com). I myself know that if you go to any circuit city that carries a BAZOOKA tube, they'll let you test it inside your car to see how it sounds/feels. If you feel more confident, and want to customize, i suggest this combo:
Go with JL audio, more specifically, JL W3's or W6's, 10" or 12", depending on how much money you want to spend. JL's are specifically designed to work in sealed enclosures that are smaller than those required by other subs of the same size, so you're saving valuable trunk space. Not only do JL sound cleaner, they hit harder and deeper with less distortion. Here's a great combo for an amp, a Rockford 500a2 paired with two 10" JL W6's. Any car audio center will agree.

Go with Rockford Fosgate and JL audio and you will get solid reliablity, and if you choose to order rockford through crutchfield, yer gonna get a good waranty.

I hope you take this advice to mind, and don't be rash with your decision. If you can affored to get the better quality at a later time, wait for it!

~~~If anybody else has some good sub/amp combos (*specific models and sizes*), let's help this guy out with suggestions!~~~

 

You can also have free air and isobaric.

As for your other suggestions, I agree 100%! JL Audio has some of the best subwoofers and they are reasonably priced. If price is an issue also consider the w0 series, they are JL's lowest series, but they are still much better than other brands. Most smaller shops (to be competitive) will give reduced prices on installation if you buy all the items from them. My friend bought his subs, box, and amp at a smaller install shop and the guy installed everything for $60 and that included the wiring kit and he used 8 gauge wire. If you have friends that know how to do it, then ask for help it's real easy to install, but you might not want to attempt it without a strong knowledge or familiarity of installation by yourself.

 

i started off the same way as you...didnt want a big stereo and just wanted bass....then i blew the factory speakers with in 6months (whilie watching the voulme) and then i replaced those speakers...which wouldnt work w/ factory head unit...one thing lead to another...ohh well
<img src= "http://www.geocities.com/ryanhayslip/maxhead3.jpg">

 

A friend said he would do it, im just worried about him ripping apart my car. Hes installed steros before, but how hard is it on the max?

 

Audio installation is not difficult if you know what you are doing. Does your friend know what he's doing? Has he ever installed car audio before? If not, SAY NO! If your friend does have experience installing car audio, check out the work he's done on those cars. Are there scratches all over the console? Does the fabric/carpeting stick out places where he "tucked" the wiring in? Does the car have electronics problems? Check out his handywork. As much of a friend as he is, if he doesn't know what he's doing, don't let him near your maxima. Oftentimes, it is much MUCH better to have the job done profesionally by qualified people instead of regretting the mistake of not shelling out the extra $60-$100. As for "ripping apart" your car, while the job is being done, it IS going to look like somebody gutted out your console, ripped up your carpeting, cut a hole in your firewall, and tore out a heapload of dashboard parts. When all the work is done and if the job is done RIGHT, you shouldn't see any difference in the interior of your car.

Good luck

[Edited by Advocate1 on 11-15-2000 at 12:18 AM]

 

did you blast your stereo all the time?? PEACE

 

nope....i watched the voulme becausse i didnt want to have to buy new speakers....with bass you cant hear the rear speakers distorting so....

 

thanks for the reply ... so you blew out your stock speakers even though you were watching the volume?? I just want the extra bass also, but if the speakers are gonna blow ... might as well buy speakers also, so i could get a better deal when i buy all the components for my system.

 

Yeah, a good shop should work with you on the price if you buy a ton of stuff and have it installed there. Even if you get aftermarket speakers, you'll need an amp to power them. Underpowering them with a HU will cause them to blow.

 

i bought everything at wholesale and installed it all my self...that saves sooooo much money and its not really all that hard.....but you dont have to have an amp for just aftermarket speakers.... i dont have mine on any right now...i just put bass blockers on the speakers (basically a 2 dollar crossover that blocks bass frequencies) to keep bass from coming out of the speakers...only from the subs...it sounds great