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buy or build a subwoofer box?

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Old 01-18-2002, 04:51 PM
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buy or build a subwoofer box?

Do you guys buy or build your own sub boxes?
What is cheaper out of those 2 options?
What is more reliable and better made out of those 2 options?

Cuz i need a sub woofer box for 2 12" woofers...

if i build a simple box out of "mdf-medium density fiberboard",
use rtv silicon for air control, & carpet the outside of the box...

where do i stand between this and something i buy with price/quality?

thanks.
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Old 01-18-2002, 10:58 PM
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making your own is relatively cheaper......but i dont trust my craftsmanship .......www.crutchfield.com has a couple of nice boxes - what kinda sub is it for anyways?
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Old 01-19-2002, 01:03 AM
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as long as you are good with wood work and have the correct calculations for the box then your fine making one. I would have got a shop to make it or buy one, but thats me.
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Old 01-19-2002, 05:54 AM
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mdf if a ***** to saw through also....
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Old 01-19-2002, 07:11 AM
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MDF has no grain. So is nearly the easiest material a saw will ever see. Easier, for the saw, would be balsa, and paricle board. Building it yourself has several benefits. First, you learn something new if you have never done woodwork before. Second, you learn something new if you have never built a speaker enclosure before. Third, you almost always end up with a better box. Fourth, you have good reason to be proud of a box that you built, rather than one you paid for. Fifth, you will know the boxes strengths and weaknesses, if any. Sixth, you will have the right sized box, because you measured it with your own tape-measure.



That being said -
If you don't have the resourses at home, find someplace that does. If you don't have a family member with woodworking experience, find a friend of the family who does. These can both probably be found for zero dollars.
 
Old 01-19-2002, 09:39 AM
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Originally posted by jmax
MDF has no grain. So is nearly the easiest material a saw will ever see. Easier, for the saw, would be balsa, and paricle board. Building it yourself has several benefits. First, you learn something new if you have never done woodwork before. Second, you learn something new if you have never built a speaker enclosure before. Third, you almost always end up with a better box. Fourth, you have good reason to be proud of a box that you built, rather than one you paid for. Fifth, you will know the boxes strengths and weaknesses, if any. Sixth, you will have the right sized box, because you measured it with your own tape-measure.



That being said -
If you don't have the resourses at home, find someplace that does. If you don't have a family member with woodworking experience, find a friend of the family who does. These can both probably be found for zero dollars.
--the problem isn't with resources or desire to build it myself...I'm more worried about the quality compared to the good boxes that run for like $200-$300.....Meaning if build my dual 12" box and put a lot of effort into the quality of it.....will it match some of the best boxes that run at those prices?

thanks
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Old 01-19-2002, 10:25 AM
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try speakerhole.com---they have quality boxes for the price


Originally posted by itsgt


--the problem isn't with resources or desire to build it myself...I'm more worried about the quality compared to the good boxes that run for like $200-$300.....Meaning if build my dual 12" box and put a lot of effort into the quality of it.....will it match some of the best boxes that run at those prices?

thanks
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Old 01-19-2002, 11:23 AM
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Originally posted by seven
try speakerhole.com---they have quality boxes for the price


I rather build a box then buy it...
This site does have very cheap prices, which makes me think twice about buying it from here....i mean they have dual mdf 12" boxes that cost under $50.....that just means they're sh*t.

Plus why....do the dual 12" sub boxes come in .88cf or 1.5cf......I need one with 2cf.(each sub needs 1cb)
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Old 01-19-2002, 12:58 PM
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I didnt trust my craftmansship either...nor I had time/tools to build a box. I went to a local fleamarket and got an unbeatable deal on a sub box.
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Old 01-19-2002, 02:02 PM
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Just remember you are building a box, not a suspension bridge. So it is pretty simple. I admit that the quality of boxes you can now get for fifty dolars is equall to what you used to get for $300 a couple years ago. But a sheet of MDF is < $15, polyurethane glue < $5, a box of screws < $2, A little fabric < $8 a yard, polyfill < $2. You can get everything, except MDF, at Wal*Mart. And you'll have enough left over materials for 3-5 friends boxes @ $40 each, you make a good profit.
 
Old 01-19-2002, 10:50 PM
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Originally posted by jmax
Just remember you are building a box, not a suspension bridge. So it is pretty simple. I admit that the quality of boxes you can now get for fifty dolars is equall to what you used to get for $300 a couple years ago. But a sheet of MDF is < $15, polyurethane glue < $5, a box of screws < $2, A little fabric < $8 a yard, polyfill < $2. You can get everything, except MDF, at Wal*Mart. And you'll have enough left over materials for 3-5 friends boxes @ $40 each, you make a good profit.

yep, i agree....... Are you using polyruethane glue for air control or something else? Cuz i plan to use rtv silicon to seel the insides of the boxe's edges. And what are u using poly fill for?
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Old 01-19-2002, 11:39 PM
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Originally posted by itsgt



yep, i agree....... Are you using polyruethane glue for air control or something else? Cuz i plan to use rtv silicon to seel the insides of the boxe's edges. And what are u using poly fill for?

you use the polyfill to stuff the inside of sealed enclosures to slow the sound waves down to make it sound like the box is bigger so it gives out a better and bigger sound.
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Old 01-20-2002, 06:30 AM
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You are using the polyurethane glue because the bond is stronger than the wood. Also, it expands as it cures. This eliminates the need for silicone. You basically cut out a step and one of the materials on the list. The polyfill does as Nismo said, and also helps cut down on midbass resonances. The box, unless huge, will be too small to have any long wavelength resonances.
 
Old 01-20-2002, 08:52 AM
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Originally posted by jmax
You are using the polyurethane glue because the bond is stronger than the wood. Also, it expands as it cures. This eliminates the need for silicone. You basically cut out a step and one of the materials on the list. The polyfill does as Nismo said, and also helps cut down on midbass resonances. The box, unless huge, will be too small to have any long wavelength resonances.
So you would recommend "polyurethane glue" over the rtv silicon to seal the edges of the inside of the enclosure for air control? And how much of the poly fill do you lay inside the box?? Because as i understand it...If i build a 2cubic ft box for 2 12" subs which require 1cf each.....stuffing the box with poly fill...will only take up air space and won't be the recommended air space suggested as the specifications of the subs?

thanks
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Old 01-20-2002, 09:09 AM
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Use the polyurethane glue, as glue. I mean glue all the edges thoroughly, and you won't need the silicon. If you build the box so that it is a net 1 cubic ft, and then add significant bracing. The net volume will be less than 1 ft because of the bracing. Now add polyfill untill you get the desired sound and bass extension. Polyfill or fiberglass can add up to 25% of the net volume. So if your net volume turns out to be 0.85 after bracing and driver displacement, the polyfill can bring it back up to the 1 cubic ft range.
 
Old 01-20-2002, 12:18 PM
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Originally posted by jmax
Use the polyurethane glue, as glue. I mean glue all the edges thoroughly, and you won't need the silicon. If you build the box so that it is a net 1 cubic ft, and then add significant bracing. The net volume will be less than 1 ft because of the bracing. Now add polyfill untill you get the desired sound and bass extension. Polyfill or fiberglass can add up to 25% of the net volume. So if your net volume turns out to be 0.85 after bracing and driver displacement, the polyfill can bring it back up to the 1 cubic ft range.
hmmm...What exactly do you mean by bracing and driver displacement? The only thing that will take away from the volume inside the enclosure is the back(bottom) part of the two woofers themselves....And how much poly fill do you put in??
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Old 01-20-2002, 02:43 PM
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Originally posted by itsgt


hmmm...What exactly do you mean by bracing and driver displacement? The only thing that will take away from the volume inside the enclosure is the back(bottom) part of the two woofers themselves....And how much poly fill do you put in??

bracing is the wood you use to add structural rigidy.

polyfil: 1-1/2 lbs per cubic foot.
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Old 01-20-2002, 03:59 PM
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Originally posted by Nismo



bracing is the wood you use to add structural rigidy.

polyfil: 1-1/2 lbs per cubic foot.

hmm...ok sounds good.

buti still don't understand what's bracing all about. I mean is it some extra wood you use inside the enclosure after you use mdf to build the box?
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Old 01-20-2002, 08:09 PM
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Originally posted by Nismo



bracing is the wood you use to add structural rigidy.

polyfil: 1-1/2 lbs per cubic foot.
trust me...this is not a situation that will need any extra bracing.
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Old 01-20-2002, 08:31 PM
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That's the first time I have ever seen a recommendation to not use extra bracing. Since any decent twelve has X-max 12mm minumum, and 300-600 RMS power. I use the bracing, for good reason.
 
Old 01-20-2002, 08:35 PM
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Originally posted by jmax
That's the first time I have ever seen a recommendation to not use extra bracing. Since any decent twelve has X-max 12mm minumum, and 300-600 RMS power. I use the bracing, for good reason.
YUP
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