mitchgates

I have a 93 Maxima with the "Active Speaker" sound system (Cassette Player and radio). I assume this is a non-Bose system, right? I want to replace the head unit with an aftermarket CD player, but have been quite confused about the special requirements, if any, due to the existing amp and speaker system. I have heard many things about problem trying to replace 3rd gen Maxima stereo, both Bose and non-Bose, but I'm still not totally clear on the real story on my specific system.

Here are my questions....

1. If I replace the head unit with a normal cd player/radio do I have to somehow bypass the current amp? If so, how is this done? I want to keep my current speakers if possible, since I don't want to invest too much work and money in this car. I'm fine with the volume and clarity, and I simply want the ability to play cds, etc.

2. Is this something I can do myself, or is it worth paying the $$ for a professional install. I've removed the head unit once already to check the wiring, so I'm confident about doing my own install as long as it doesn't require any serious rewiring, etc. What other parts do I need? I've heard I also need the proper harness, as well as an antenna adapter.

3. If I end up taking this to a local shop for installation, what do I need to know to prevent being screwed over. The few places I've talked to so far each told me a different story, quoted different prices, and said various things would have to be done, replaced, rewired etc. The average price quote has been around $150 to just install the head unit (with the needed alterations to make it work).

4. If I install a new head unit, will I lose fader ability or any other functionality? This is something else I keep reading about in the newsgroups.

5. Over the past year or so, the motor in my antenna has quit working. It's locked in the up position now. Is this something worth having repaired? I'm not concerned about it being stuck, unless it also hurts the reception of FM signals somehow. I don't get the best FM reception lately, but I recently move to a new city and I'm not sure if it's really any worse than before it broke.

Thanks in advance for any advice or information.

-Mitch

Schmoo

I'm no expert, but here's what I've gathered.

If it doesn't say Bose on the head unit, it's probably not Bose.

In that case, the Chilton's manual shows that the non-Bose system has the head unit driving the front speakers, but it uses an amp for the rear speakers. The wires going to the rear are shielded and must be line-level, but they go into the harness just like the front speaker wires do (ie, there aren't any seperate RCA line-level outputs).

Many head units offer a line-out that works through the fader as if it were the rear channel. Sometimes the line-out is independent of the fader. It depends upon the particular unit. Some units have dual line-outs that are controlled by the fader.

An alternative you might want to consider is a CD player that is wired in through the stock head unit. There's a chance that your existing head unit has a CD-in connector on the back, or, even without that, there are those that plug in through the antenna.

mitchgates

Thanks for the reply.

>>Many head units offer a line-out that works through the fader as if it were the rear channel. Sometimes the line-out is independent of the fader. It depends upon the particular unit. Some units have dual line-outs that are controlled by the fader.<<

I just purchased a Jensen CD/Mp3 player that I hope to install. I does have a set of RCA outputs to Amp. Could these somehow be wired to the rear speakers?

>>An alternative you might want to consider is a CD player that is wired in through the stock head unit.<<

Actually, the LED readout is out on the head unit as well, so I need to replace it if possible.

Thanks again,
Mitch

mitchgates

Okay, I've found out the Jensen has mounting problems in my car (needs alterations to screw holes, etc). However, Crutchfield has the new Kenwood MPV619 for only $299.

So, it looks I will be installing myself. Any words of advice from you 3rd gen non-bose experts out there? Anything to be aware of or look out for? Crutchfield says this unit should be fine in my car, and promises to send all the needed adapters, etc needed for installation.

-Mitch

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

you got lucky with the non-bose system.. front speakers will wire up perfectly. there's the small amp on the rear deck for the rear speakers. easily bypass-able also.
you won't need a dash kit or anything (unless your current deck is tape + CD..) you will need a wiring harness adaptor and a diversity antenna adaptor. they go for $7-18 depending where you buy them. can pick them up at crutchfield or any local car audio shop.

instructions for the rear amp bypass are on my website:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/faq...amp_bypass.txt

mitchgates

Matt,

So, do you recommend bypassing the existing amp vs. using the line-level outs of my head unit to feed singal to the existing amp? I assume that by using the HU's amp for the rear speakers instead is that the quality will be better, right?

Also, I do have to run any new wires from the dash to the rear if I bypass it, or just use the existing wires? Any detailed info appreciated. I've never installed my own stereo before, but feel confident I can do it with the right information.

THanks,
Mitch

instructions for the rear amp bypass are on my website:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/faq...amp_bypass.txt [/B][/QUOTE]

Schmoo

I have no useful experience here, but if it were me, I'd try both before deciding which to do. You can use some long temporary wires to try out driving the speakers directly. If you then decide to go with that choice, you can use the wiring already in the car with the amp bypassed. I'd also consider using quick disconnects rather than butt connectors when bypassing the amp. That way, the operation is always easily reversible.

time2reup

Like Matt said basically all you need is that wiring adapter. If you get it from crutchfield it is a fairly painless process. You wire their adapter to your new head unit..take out your old deck, disconnect the old deck, and the crutchfield adapter should plug right in. Not too painfull, and not that hard for your first fix. Try that first and then if you aren't happy you can try bypassing the rear amp. I have all new wire run from my amps so I haven't read Matt's write up. I am sure it is good though, he is the man when it comes to these cars, and I am sure he can help you if you don't understand something. Also did you check the outlet at Crutchfield? Sometimes you can find something you like in there and save a little bit of loot.