dm7297

iTrader: (1)

ive got a sony dvc 12" sub (the almunium woofer one) it says it handles up to 1200watts how much should i be pushing to it right now i have 180 and it dosnt seem to be hitting hard could i like double amp it like one amp into another amp into the sub? to give it more watts?

maximadave

iTrader: (10)

The Sony DVC sub will peak out at 1200 watts and handles about 600 watts of continous power (if that). Use the JL Audio 500/1 500 watt mono block amp. If you don't run enough power to your sub, you can blow your sub and even your amp. run the JL amp. Your sub will appreciate it

Dave

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

any idea on how much such and amp costs and where i can get it?

maximadave

iTrader: (10)

If you have a Tweeter store near you a JL500/1 would run you $499.00. Tweeter can also build you a custom box specifically for your DVC Sony sub.

Dave

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

ouch 499.00 is over my head at the moment, how many watts should i be feeding this? i have a sony 5 channel amp that has 880 watts i think if i bridge them i can get 300 watts is that enough?

Dave

jmax

Before you jump off the boat into water that you may not be able to swim, why not try reading up on the FAQ's link or the JL audio tutorial page about DVC subs. There is a lot of info that you, the consumer, should be aware of before making a purchase.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip man that really helped out i have a dual voice coil dvc sub and the jl audio site helped out alot, i have a spare amp laying around that i can bridge and make 150watts x2 and hook one up to each voice coil for a total of 300 watts am i correct from what i read

jmax

If your sub has dual 4 ohm coils. Otherwise, if the impedance is lower per coil, the amp may not be stable at the load the sub will present. My MacDaddy's were dual 4 ohms when new. Now that I have thoroughly worked one of them out the resistance is closer to 3.2 - 3.4 ohms per coil. That's another funny thing about speakers. The parameters change once they have been broken in.

victor

iTrader: (1)

i don't think it's good to wire a subs coils in stereo. you should bridge the channels and then wire the sub in parallel or series.

WaydeMax

i agree, for example, if it's a 2 ohm dvc, you can wire the two coils in series to creat a 4 ohm load to the amp. that way if your amp can be brigded to mono at 4 ohms, ur good to go !

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

its a 4 ohm sub and the amp i have is a 4 channel amp with a total of 400 watts how should i got about wireing it?

WaydeMax

I think you should just get a another amp. wire the the two coils in parallel to make a 2 ohm load. then get an amp, maybe a 2 channel, that's stable to 2 ohms bridged. or u have a better chance of finding a mono amp that's 2 ohm stable. I think that all you can do besides wire each coil individually.

victor

iTrader: (1)

can you tell me the model of the amp?? if so i will try to look up specs for it, and i'll let you know what the best wiring would be for your amp and sub combination.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

its a crapy Jensen XA4200
50W x 4 Car Amplifier

but i have it laying around and since i dont got that much extra cash cuz of school and all, i was hoping i could use it to get a little more bump then what i have now


Heres the spec's for the amp

2-,3-, 4-channel, or Tri-way output
50 watts x 4 at 4 ohms
75 watts x 4 at 2 ohms
150 watts x 2 in bridged mode
requires 4-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
MOSFET power supply
speaker-level inputs
selectable 40-400 Hz variable high- and low-pass crossovers, 12 dB/octave
0-12 dB variable bass boost at 45 Hz
preamp outputs
4-way protection circuitry

victor

iTrader: (1)

cool. from what you listed it did not state at what impedance the bridged power was at, so i looked it up, and it's at 4ohm.

then i headed over to the sony site to see what sub you had, and the only aluminum cone woofer they had was a single voice coil woofer, so i'm not sure.

is your sub a dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm sub?? i need to know that.

hopefully it's either a dual 2 ohm, or a single 4 ohm woofer. i don't think that the amp will be stable at 2ohm's bridged.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

ok the sub i have is last years aluminum cone with the big red heat sync in the middle model number xs-L1265G on the box it says its dual voice coils, 4ohms x2, but i thought i saw that it will do 2ohms too but not sure

WaydeMax

i tried to find the sub on the site too but it wasn't there (probably cuz it's from last year) but anyway, if it's 4ohms x2 than it will to do 2ohms depending on how you wire the two coils. wiring it in....
parallel = 2ohms
series = 8ohms
it would be best if your amp could bridged to one channel at 2 ohms , but from what you said it can't. so , I think the best thing to do is either get another amp like one I posted earlier or another sub.

srbarnes4ever

Good points, keep in mind too that the actual impedence changes with the frequency of the sound you're passing through the woofer, so the typical resistance rating is just a nominal figure and usually means the speaker has a range around that nominal rating. In fact, I had my old Fosgate Punch 75 wired mono onto a JL 12W6 with the voice coils parallel (nominal 3 ohm load) and never once blew it over 2 years time. Course those were the days Fosgate made some stout ****!

victor

iTrader: (1)

agreed, but i don't suggest him trying it with his amp.

ok and back to the sub, there's no way to safely hook that amp to the sub, you could do as srbarnes4ever says and try that, but your amp might not be able to take it.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

that sucks, o well ill just leave it how i have it now hooked up to the sub spot on my 5 channel sony amp it sounds alright, could use a little more bass though, dont got the cash yet though

jmax

If it's dual 4 ohm hook it up as you said. Bridge the amp to two channels and hook up one channel to each coil. You may have a switch on the amp to sum the input signals for mono output. But don't think you will notice a significant difference with the dual coil sub. If it is a dual two ohm sub you will need a stereo or mono amp to power it. Unless you buy a really expensive one ohm stable four channel.

nismo240sx

not that you want to buy a new amp, but the jbl powervalve amps are solid, and they are pretty inexpensive. the jbl 600.1 is a mono amp, that you could run at 2 ohm mono (dual 4 ohm sub wired parallel) and get a little over 600 watts...not enough more that it will hurt the sub tho. plus brand new, you can get them for around 200. and if you decide you need more power, the 1200.1 is about 265 bux and does around 1320 watts @ 2 or 1 ohm.

eric

victor

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i'm not thinking i guess, jmax is right. i'd put the coils in series and then use the amp bridged. the amp will then "see" a 4ohm load.

WaydeMax

I think he was saying to wire each of the two bridged channels to each voice coil

victor

iTrader: (1)

i don't understand. so he won't be wiring the sub in parallel or series? so it'll be running in stereo?? i think i might be confused because it's a 4channel amp.

WaydeMax

I'm not sure what he's doing with his setup but Jmax's advice was to wire each coil individually with a each bridged channel from the amp. Now , I didn't think this would be wise but from reading Jmax's posting for a while now , I now that he's experienced and knows what he's talkin bout most of the time. So , I guess it's ok to do what he says.

victor

iTrader: (1)

i guess so. lol.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

i get how hes saying to wire it, hes saying to wire it independent like the picture on jl audios site

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/dvc/dvcAdvantage.html

amax935

jmax knows his shiet

with a 5 channel brige 1+2, & 3+4 and connect them to each coil. It does not matter if you are using different channels as long as they are getting the same input signal. if the amp does not have a summing switch use a y rca and only use one stereo channel as the input.

victor

iTrader: (1)

i see now.

jmax

Actually they don't need to receive the same signal. The motor assembly of the sub will "sum" the signal essentially. And it is not possible to damage the sub this way. Sending it a stereo or mono signal is unecessary. You can use the 5 channel amp for your mids and highs and the 4 channel for the sub. The mono 5th channel of the amp powering the components can remain unused, or for a better idea power a center channel with it. The 4 channel, bridged to two channels, will most likely have more power than the 5th channel of the other amp by itself.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

yes i am using the 5 channel for my 4 door speakers each speaker wired to each channel ill try to hook up the 4 channel tonite or tomarrow and let ya know how it sounds,

im gonna need to get another power chord right i cant just bridge off the one from the amp i have already right?

jmax

You should get a distribution block for the power wire. The size of the wire needed depends on the total amperage draw and the length of the wire. Look at the size of the fuses on the amps and add the amperage together for total approximate amperage draw.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

MM whats a distribution block? and whats it do? What i have is my sony amp has a 30amp fuse and the 4 channel jenson has two 25 amp fuses, right now i have a street wires amp power chord which i belive is 4ga with a 25 watt glass fuse which is about 16ft long, do i have to get another one of these or can i just split that power line so i dont have to run another one?

Thanks for all the help

victor

iTrader: (1)

a distribution block will allow you to not have to run another power wire from the hood. you cannot just splice into the current power wire.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

Alright sweet thats what i was looking to do, where can i get one any audio store? around how much should i pay?

victor

iTrader: (1)

yeah any audio store should have them. they go for like 15 bucks. you'll need a couple fuses for the distribution block too, one for each amp.

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

alright i think i got all the stuff i need, 100 bucks at the audio store im gonna try to hook it up today if the rain holds off wish me luck

dm7297

iTrader: (1)

finally got every thing and got it all installed, got everything laying in my trunk ran out of daylight so after a few knuckle cuts and a sliced finger its all hooked up there is a lot more bass, but only one problem something in the trunk is rattling like mad any ideas as to what it is?

thanks for all the previous help worked out great