How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
I'm working on replacing the Bose system in my car (2k2) and wanted to Dynamat Extreme (well use a clone product actually) the doors and the trunk and a few of the usual spots. About how much should I use? The stuff I'm looking at comes in 62.5 sqft rolls. Will one roll do the trick, or am I going to need two?
Stereodude
Stereodude
Re: How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
Originally posted by Stereodude
I'm working on replacing the Bose system in my car (2k2) and wanted to Dynamat Extreme (well use a clone product actually) the doors and the trunk and a few of the usual spots. About how much should I use? The stuff I'm looking at comes in 62.5 sqft rolls. Will one roll do the trick, or am I going to need two?
Stereodude
I'm working on replacing the Bose system in my car (2k2) and wanted to Dynamat Extreme (well use a clone product actually) the doors and the trunk and a few of the usual spots. About how much should I use? The stuff I'm looking at comes in 62.5 sqft rolls. Will one roll do the trick, or am I going to need two?
Stereodude
What product are you using. I've read some posts on peel & seal (roofing sealant) being comparable and inexpensive but I've also read it smells like tar in the heat. I live in Houston & it will be 93degrees today! I don't really want to smell tar in my car...any suggestions?
I live in Houston & it will be 93degrees today! I don't really want to smell tar in my car...any suggestions?

Really though, you could keep looking around for other knockoff deadening material and hopefully find one that doesn't stink.
Stereodude - I would say if you could, more would be better. You can always add more layers with the extra. Dunno about exactly what it'd take for a 2K2 though.
Re: Re: How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
Originally posted by mr_elotoe
Hmmm...I think one roll would be enough but you might be cutting it kinda close. Best way to find out is just get a measuring tape and measure the doors on one side of the car. Get the sqft & multiply by 2. Figure out how much you'd have left for the trunk. I'm guessing not enough, but, I'll go out and measure my car at lunch....that's right....I'm at work.
What product are you using. I've read some posts on peel & seal (roofing sealant) being comparable and inexpensive but I've also read it smells like tar in the heat. I live in Houston & it will be 93degrees today! I don't really want to smell tar in my car...any suggestions?
Hmmm...I think one roll would be enough but you might be cutting it kinda close. Best way to find out is just get a measuring tape and measure the doors on one side of the car. Get the sqft & multiply by 2. Figure out how much you'd have left for the trunk. I'm guessing not enough, but, I'll go out and measure my car at lunch....that's right....I'm at work.
What product are you using. I've read some posts on peel & seal (roofing sealant) being comparable and inexpensive but I've also read it smells like tar in the heat. I live in Houston & it will be 93degrees today! I don't really want to smell tar in my car...any suggestions?
The asphalt based stuff like Stormguard and Peel and Seal are cheap, but are not self adhesive and they smell.
Would I only want to do the 4 doors and the trunk? or would I want to completely strip the interior and do the floor and everything else too? I'd presume that stripping the interior would be a tad overkill unless I was competing.
I've also looked at some other stuff that's 1/2" thick and claims nearly a 20dB reduction in noise. I'm tempted to use some of that stuff as well as the RAAMat60. However, it's $99 for 16square ft.
Stereodude
I for got to mention the names of the thicker stuff I've been looking at. B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) sells two kinds, Vcomp and Lcomp. They're good for over 30 dB of NR above 1kHz and around 20dB below that. Lcomp is more expensive of the two and does not have an adhesive on it, but it is rated slightly better at low frequencies. I'm thinking of putting a layer of RAAMmat60 on the doors, the trunk, and the other usual suspects. I was thinking of putting a layer of the Vcomp in all 4 doors and possibly on the floor and firewalls of the car.
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
Originally posted by Stereodude
I for got to mention the names of the thicker stuff I've been looking at. B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) sells two kinds, Vcomp and Lcomp. They're good for over 30 dB of NR above 1kHz and around 20dB below that. Lcomp is more expensive of the two and does not have an adhesive on it, but it is rated slightly better at low frequencies. I'm thinking of putting a layer of RAAMmat60 on the doors, the trunk, and the other usual suspects. I was thinking of putting a layer of the Vcomp in all 4 doors and possibly on the floor and firewalls of the car.
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
I for got to mention the names of the thicker stuff I've been looking at. B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) sells two kinds, Vcomp and Lcomp. They're good for over 30 dB of NR above 1kHz and around 20dB below that. Lcomp is more expensive of the two and does not have an adhesive on it, but it is rated slightly better at low frequencies. I'm thinking of putting a layer of RAAMmat60 on the doors, the trunk, and the other usual suspects. I was thinking of putting a layer of the Vcomp in all 4 doors and possibly on the floor and firewalls of the car.
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
eric
Originally posted by nismo240sx
b-quiet also has brownbread, which is badass...not too expensive either.
eric
b-quiet also has brownbread, which is badass...not too expensive either.
eric
Stereodude
Re: Re: Re: How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
NEWS FLASH!!! The majority of the sound deadening products including b-quiet extreme are use the same rubberized asphalt adhesive as the Peel&Seal you can buy at Lowes. Verdict: they probably all smell the same. Easy way to find out...contact the producer of the sound deadening product. Ask them to fax or e-mail you the MSDS info for the product your looking for and voila! Now you can make an educated decision based on the comparison of the specs of the products.
Re: Re: Re: How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
Originally posted by Stereodude
The asphalt based stuff like Stormguard and Peel and Seal are cheap, but are not self adhesive and they smell.
Stereodude
The asphalt based stuff like Stormguard and Peel and Seal are cheap, but are not self adhesive and they smell.
Stereodude
MR_eltoe I used Peal&Seal in my trunk and in my door panels. There is a slight smell in my trunk, But I have a black car. and could care less what my trunk smells like
Re: Re: Re: Re: How many square feet of dynamat do I need?
Originally posted by PATRICK94SE
It is actualy very sticky.
MR_eltoe I used Peal&Seal in my trunk and in my door panels. There is a slight smell in my trunk, But I have a black car. and could care less what my trunk smells like
It is actualy very sticky.
MR_eltoe I used Peal&Seal in my trunk and in my door panels. There is a slight smell in my trunk, But I have a black car. and could care less what my trunk smells like
I have used b-quiet
I have used b-quiet on a full doors&floors in my Jeep cherokee, even the exhause side (2.5" exhaust), and there was NO stink at all. I used the basic (not brownbread) and it worked well, except for one part that I did not adhere toowell, and it peeled off and got on the window. This only happened one in one door. THe stuff was cheap, easier to apply than basic dynamat, and WORKED!
Originally posted by Stereodude
I for got to mention the names of the thicker stuff I've been looking at. B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) sells two kinds, Vcomp and Lcomp. They're good for over 30 dB of NR above 1kHz and around 20dB below that. Lcomp is more expensive of the two and does not have an adhesive on it, but it is rated slightly better at low frequencies. I'm thinking of putting a layer of RAAMmat60 on the doors, the trunk, and the other usual suspects. I was thinking of putting a layer of the Vcomp in all 4 doors and possibly on the floor and firewalls of the car.
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
I for got to mention the names of the thicker stuff I've been looking at. B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) sells two kinds, Vcomp and Lcomp. They're good for over 30 dB of NR above 1kHz and around 20dB below that. Lcomp is more expensive of the two and does not have an adhesive on it, but it is rated slightly better at low frequencies. I'm thinking of putting a layer of RAAMmat60 on the doors, the trunk, and the other usual suspects. I was thinking of putting a layer of the Vcomp in all 4 doors and possibly on the floor and firewalls of the car.
Has anyone been in a car that had this level of treatment? Exactly how quiet will it be?
Stereodude
However, if you add that much damping material, your stereo will sound very nice, though. I had that much in the front doors of my Explorer with a 3-way Dynaudio set (8-inch woofers) and it was absolutely breathtaking. No resonances, vibrations, or anything. It was the closest thing you could get to having sealed enclosures in your doors. It's definitely worth the labor!!
Tony
Originally posted by Tony Fernandes
I doubt that the car will be much quieter at all. What you want may require some sort of lead sheets made specifically for reducing road noise. They'll be a LOT more expensive than conventional damping sheets, though.
However, if you add that much damping material, your stereo will sound very nice, though. I had that much in the front doors of my Explorer with a 3-way Dynaudio set (8-inch woofers) and it was absolutely breathtaking. No resonances, vibrations, or anything. It was the closest thing you could get to having sealed enclosures in your doors. It's definitely worth the labor!!
Tony
I doubt that the car will be much quieter at all. What you want may require some sort of lead sheets made specifically for reducing road noise. They'll be a LOT more expensive than conventional damping sheets, though.
However, if you add that much damping material, your stereo will sound very nice, though. I had that much in the front doors of my Explorer with a 3-way Dynaudio set (8-inch woofers) and it was absolutely breathtaking. No resonances, vibrations, or anything. It was the closest thing you could get to having sealed enclosures in your doors. It's definitely worth the labor!!
Tony
I bought 50 sqft of peel and seal from Lowes. I treated all for doors (only the inside) with a single layer (a few spots have two). Only ended up using 25sqft for all four doors. My car is still in pieces scattered around the house. I'm only part way through this install.

Stereodude
Originally posted by Stereodude
Some people have metered about a 6dB drop in the noise in the car after doing what I suggested. I did not end up doing that however.
I bought 50 sqft of peel and seal from Lowes. I treated all for doors (only the inside) with a single layer (a few spots have two). Only ended up using 25sqft for all four doors. My car is still in pieces scattered around the house. I'm only part way through this install.
Stereodude
Some people have metered about a 6dB drop in the noise in the car after doing what I suggested. I did not end up doing that however.
I bought 50 sqft of peel and seal from Lowes. I treated all for doors (only the inside) with a single layer (a few spots have two). Only ended up using 25sqft for all four doors. My car is still in pieces scattered around the house. I'm only part way through this install.

Stereodude
I remember reading an article in some sort of consumer magazine (or was it a car audio magazine) that went out and bought a whole lot of Dynamat and put it EVERYWHERE inside a car. They measured for road noise in the car both before and after the install and the difference was negligible.
They did however state that their stereo sounded better due to the decreased vibrations caused by the speakers themselves.
Anyway, Stereodude, I hope your install goes well and you can't go wrong by doing what you're doing. BTW, did you take sound measurements in your car before you started? I would be curious as to your before/after results. I would also love to see your system on an RTA before and after. Now THAT'S where you will really see a difference.
Tony
Originally posted by Tony Fernandes
BTW, did you take sound measurements in your car before you started? I would be curious as to your before/after results. I would also love to see your system on an RTA before and after. Now THAT'S where you will really see a difference.
Tony
BTW, did you take sound measurements in your car before you started? I would be curious as to your before/after results. I would also love to see your system on an RTA before and after. Now THAT'S where you will really see a difference.
Tony
Stereodude
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