everyone who?

 

I know that I have my mind set on the Eclipse CD4000 and I think the JL W3V2 subs

 

everyone who's NEW to audio like him...when people hear JL they say "omgwtfbbq".

 

Well JL has made a name for their good/decent subs.

 

So far I have decided on

Eclipse HU CD4000 - (Unknown Speakers) - JL 250watt amp and 500watt amp - JL W3V2 subs.

Could anyone tell me how the amp channels work? Cause I don't understand them.

 

What don't you understand? You sure you should be buying ANY equipment if you know so little about it? Or at least learn while you get this stuff -

 

I know what an amp does but I don't understand how the channels work thats all what I was trying to ask. Do you think it would be ok to get a 250/1 amp for the speakers?

 

250/1 means 1 channel.

you need at least 2 for your front speaers (a right and left)
at least 1 for your subs depending on how you wire them
as far as that goes, if you dont know parallel/series and stuff means i would suggest looking through some general car audio faq's and learn a bit more before you start laying down the cash.

 

get a 2 channel amp or a 4 channel amp. that amp will run subs only.

 

Well I'm going to have 2 amps. 1 amp for the speakers and 1 amp for the subs. Also I'm going to have a professional install all of this.

 

if you reasearch you will find that the more cost-effective option will be to get a single 4ch amp and bridge the last two for your sub(s). look for a 4 channel amp that can do about 100 watts per 4 channels at 4 ohms. the ohm load is important. a pretty good deal on car domain now that would serve you well is this one:

http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO754II

and if you wanted rears you could always add a 1 ch (mono) amp later if needed and tranfer the sub or subs to that

 

Well I was thinking of getting speakers all around so that is why I was thinking of getting 2 amps. So if I'm getting this right. I should get 1 amp that is like a 250/4 @4ohms would be alright for the speakers and a 500/1 for the subs. Is that correct?

 

500/1 is more than enough for the subs in my mind, but 250/4 is not enough for the speakers if you are going with the rainbows or other components. It would work but you would benefit from looking more around 400/4 or 100x4 all at 4 ohms. if you are getting the w3's look for the rating at 2 ohms. you want about 600/1 at 2 ohms in that case because if you wire them parallel they will both get half of the wattage put out at 2 ohms, and their rms rating is 300.

so...
4ch 400/4 or 100x4 @ 4ohms
Mono (1ch) 600/1 @ 2 ohms.

 

and fyi this will run you well over your 700 if you go with anything of quality.

my suggestion:
find your 4ch as mentioned above, get your cd4000, rainbow slc comps, jl's even if you want, and screw rears for now. Wire your rainbows on the front channels of the 4ch and bridge the rear to one of the jl's or any other single 4 ohm voice coil or dual 2 ohm voice coil sub that runs between 200-400 rms, as thats abot what you'll get bridged. as funding allows you can buy that mono amp, rears, and eventually switch the subs over to the mono and put your rears on the remaining 4ch channels. there are a whole lot of guys on here that dont run any rear fill, so dont feel cheap or anything for skipping it. most hardcore guys think it distracts from the front stae anyway.

 

Oh I see. Do you run anything in the rear? Are the rainbow slc that good? What is a good brand amp? So if I were to go with this set up it would be.

Eclipse CD4000($229) + Rainbow SLC ($205) + W3V2 (waiting for a friend to get back to me on that price) + (Unknown Amp and price)

 

well for 190+ free shipping you can get the amp I linked earlier. there is always better out there, but for the money this is a great deal.. plus from cardomain, an authorized JBL dealer. I would highly suggest that amp in your budget. that puts you at 625 plus the w3 and wiring (60 for everything you need in 4 ga through knukonceptz) and youll want to do some deadening to improve the quality, but that can be done later... this should put you a little over 700.. and thats a good setup. you shouldnt really regret any of it. especially the HU and the comps. they are the best out there in this price range.

 

That amp will be able to support all of that?

 

and no, nothing in the rear. what i am doing now is just running my stocks off the hu in the rear until I decide whether I will replace them or take em out but its definately not missing much without them. I'm thinking i'll leave it and spend the cash somewhere else..

 

yep, the amp is 104x4, but when you bridge the rear 2 channels into 1 channel for the sub you get 280 or so watts, matching the 300 rms for a w3 very well. pm me if you have questions on how to wire this, but yes that amp should do it all.

 

Since the subs at at 300rms, shouldn't it be better if I got a stronger amp to help the sub? Sorry for all this newbie questions. Also I was thinking of having a custom box built for it so that it fits in the trunk of the max well instead of having it slide around.

 

which JL subs, Don's?

 

285 watts is pretty damn close to 300... and it saves you 200 some dollars by keeping it all in 1 amp for now. if you really feel the need to upgrade then you can add an amp later. the JBL gto 600.1 would be an awesome addition... 600 watts @ 2 ohms like i suggested.. and it asthetically matches the jbl 4 channel very well (even the same chassis) but you really dont need that to start. the single 4 ch will be a solid choice for now, the beauty being your ability to upgrade without selling all your old stuff because you can always just add an amp or whatever. as i said, you wont regret going this route... this is the amp I plan to use in an almost identical setup..

mines in the mail

 

Well a friend of mine knows a guy selling his JL W3V2 and if he can get me a better price I might buy it off of that guy.

 

Very nice.

 

sorry don, your thread totally got jacked..

but you're welcome for the free bumps

 

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2056


considering for the price of ONE, from a crap hole place that sells them for under retail such as^^^, and Don has a PAIR for about the same price, unless your friend steals JL subs, Don's price will be hard to beat.

 

Its all good, but more buying a less posting !

 

Don got lots of free bumps and he is about to sell a HU.

Also do I need a capacitor?

 

yea, now known as the company that sells counterfeit goods.

 

if you arent too set on JL's.. wait for the ascendant assassins to come out. they'll be cheaper, no doubt and should run the right wattage. nothing but good reviews from what i've seen.

that being said, don's are a great deal if you want jl's. if you tihnk of it as getting 2 for the price of 1 then even if one sits in the closet for a few months its basically free.. and will pound when hooked up to that second amp you were talking about

 

No, just say no to caps. Spend that money on a night out with the woman.

 

1st part... your not helping.

2nd part.. Absolutely ! Always have a backup-just in case. Price is semi negotiable for mutilple items.

 

shouldn't for the 1 amp, can be added later if you want


if everything works out i'll be ordering my slc's soon.

 

well that can make up for the killing of my current sales you.....

 

heh..

 

LOL!

 

Don, How much is the SLC brand new?

Also for the capacitor, is there a brand that I should look for or no? Cause I want to install a capacitor so that later on if I do add another amp I don't have to worry much about it.

 

..but you dont need one.
wait till you decide for sure if youre gonna need the other amp. if you're happy with the stuff you get up front you might decide against it later.. plus a lotta people say caps are bad period.

 

I run a pretty hefty load of amps and I dont use a cap. I prefer the ones in my amps.

$230

 

is that the price shipped?