Brakes
Brakes
I'm looking in the Group Deals board, and there's a deal for Brembo brake parts: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=214937. I need new rear pads anyways, and figured I'd get front and rear pads at the same time. But anyways, those cross-drilled / slotted rotors are tempting too, but I don't know that I want to drop the cash for a set of four. (even tho that's a lot less than anyplace else sells 'em!) What do you guys think of these rotors? Worth it? How about just running cross drilled / slotted in the front, and leaving the rears stock? Would that throw the balance out of whack?
GMT
PS- I'm posting here in the AutoX board since that's mainly what I care about. Oh, and I've got a 99GXE 5sp, RSB, FSTB, and 17"x8" wheels.
GMT
PS- I'm posting here in the AutoX board since that's mainly what I care about. Oh, and I've got a 99GXE 5sp, RSB, FSTB, and 17"x8" wheels.
Are your rotors warped or damaged? the cross drilled rotors will not brake better but will last longer and run cooler. I don't think they are worth it unless the stock rotors are not cutting it for you.
If you do replace the rotors, I would do the fronts and rears at the same time.
If you do replace the rotors, I would do the fronts and rears at the same time.
Yeah... for stock brakes, run stock rotors as crossdrilling/slotting does not actually improve braking performance.
Run stainless steel lines, high performance fluid, and good brake pads. Porterfield R4S or Axxis Ultimates (NOT metal masters) are popular choices among our SE-R little brothers.
Run stainless steel lines, high performance fluid, and good brake pads. Porterfield R4S or Axxis Ultimates (NOT metal masters) are popular choices among our SE-R little brothers.
Actually X-Drilled rotors will give a bit more bite, but not enough to justify replacing after they crack. They may last on normal street driving, but don't bother if you drive hard or track the car, they won't last not matter how big they are.
Here is a 13" ones that did not last two track days.
Here is a 13" ones that did not last two track days.
sure... that's because you cooked them from keeping the car at a stop with the brakes on... see the radial lines embedded into the rotors on the right side of the pic.. that's where the pad actually siezed to the rotor due to bringing the car to a complete stop on hot rotors and pads. you MUST allow them time to cool down before you come to a stop. if you have to come to a complete stop, at minimum, don't touch the brakes. if you can, slowly keep moving back and forth in your spot to keep the pads from stopping on the rotors.. then drive a few more minutes to let them cool down.
It look as if there's several of those lines on there, so it happened more than once.. probably what caused the cracking because the pad was sitting right over that spot holding the heat in.
http://www.stoptec.com/whitepapers/w...otors_myth.htm
Look at figure 5 in this link... it's towards the bottom of the article.
It look as if there's several of those lines on there, so it happened more than once.. probably what caused the cracking because the pad was sitting right over that spot holding the heat in.
http://www.stoptec.com/whitepapers/w...otors_myth.htm
Look at figure 5 in this link... it's towards the bottom of the article.
Don't assume! I've been doing this for many many years, I know what I am doing.
I always take a cool down lap and I also cool them down in the pits to the point you can touch the rotors with your fingers when I stop. If Stillen offered the one piece rotors not x-drilled I would have bought those, but they didn't so I had no choice. They now offer slotted only two piece which I now have and I have done 3 tracks days this week alone, just got home actually, no issues.
I always take a cool down lap and I also cool them down in the pits to the point you can touch the rotors with your fingers when I stop. If Stillen offered the one piece rotors not x-drilled I would have bought those, but they didn't so I had no choice. They now offer slotted only two piece which I now have and I have done 3 tracks days this week alone, just got home actually, no issues.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
sure... that's because you cooked them from keeping the car at a stop with the brakes on... see the radial lines embedded into the rotors on the right side of the pic.. that's where the pad actually siezed to the rotor due to bringing the car to a complete stop on hot rotors and pads. you MUST allow them time to cool down before you come to a stop. if you have to come to a complete stop, at minimum, don't touch the brakes. if you can, slowly keep moving back and forth in your spot to keep the pads from stopping on the rotors.. then drive a few more minutes to let them cool down.
It look as if there's several of those lines on there, so it happened more than once.. probably what caused the cracking because the pad was sitting right over that spot holding the heat in.
http://www.stoptec.com/whitepapers/w...otors_myth.htm
Look at figure 5 in this link... it's towards the bottom of the article.
sure... that's because you cooked them from keeping the car at a stop with the brakes on... see the radial lines embedded into the rotors on the right side of the pic.. that's where the pad actually siezed to the rotor due to bringing the car to a complete stop on hot rotors and pads. you MUST allow them time to cool down before you come to a stop. if you have to come to a complete stop, at minimum, don't touch the brakes. if you can, slowly keep moving back and forth in your spot to keep the pads from stopping on the rotors.. then drive a few more minutes to let them cool down.
It look as if there's several of those lines on there, so it happened more than once.. probably what caused the cracking because the pad was sitting right over that spot holding the heat in.
http://www.stoptec.com/whitepapers/w...otors_myth.htm
Look at figure 5 in this link... it's towards the bottom of the article.
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