Man, my cross-drilled/slotted rotors cracked big time today at the track.

Anybody have a suggestion for replacements? I am going to keep using Hawk HP+ pads - cause they rule.

Im starting to think I should go with blanks... Can someone suggest good ones? Should I get cryo-treated? (I need stock size cause I am on 15" wheels)

Thanks fellas

Also- do I need to get these replaced like tomorrow or can I deal with it (gentle and minimal braking) for a couple days?

 

Heard good things about Powerslots.....
As far as using the rotors you have for a couple of days, gotta think about if it's worth it. Cause they are your brakes you know....Not sure if you wanna risk it....Maybe go buy some brembo blanks somewhere and get performance rotors and keep the blanks around in case something happens....

Yeah i wanted to go with you but don't have that kind of money right now for it....

 

buy some Brembo blanks and be done with it. don't bother cryo treating... for the extra $25 a rotor they charge and the brembo blanks are only $50 a rotor, there's no point.

and if you drive easy on the car for a few days, you should be fine until the new rotors get in... I've done worse.. no 100+ mph stops for you, mister!

 

I would definitely suggest Brembo rotors. Mine are not drilled through, but dimpled and slotted. I've had mind so hot the anti corrosive coating peeled off like old paint and discolored the metal on my calipers. They still work just fine too with about 30k miles on them. I got mine from the Automax95 group deals that come around every once in a while. I haven't had any problems, but if I did I would go to the non drilled or slotted to reduce the stress concentrations. My next set will for sure come from the same place, I'm very happy.

 

Never take xdrill/slotted to the Track!

There is a reason Powerslot sell xdrill/slotted rotor Under SHOW WINNING LOOKS.. Hint..hint
My buddy has the brembo GT 6 piston BBK xdrill for his m3, took it to the track than Boom it cracked!

slotted would be better off to the track or blank.......

Like matt said Cryo treated rotor are not worth it


p.s btw Where did you get the rotor from?

 

Can't remember if you have an SE or not. I've seen someone use the foglight openings as air ducts. They weren't as effective as they could be b/c he couldn't get them close enuff to the inner circumfrence of the rotor, but any air going thru there has to be better than nothing. Also, if you still have the brake shields on, take them off..
Where were you driving?

 

Thanks all for the replies. I should post a pic of the rotor, it is mad cracked. All the way down to the hub- and 1/2 way through the hub, both inner and outer. Ha! Cross-drilled are Ive started going deeper into turns thanks to the HP+ pads and so the CD rotors broke down quick. Goes to show/prove someones comment that I was taking it easy last year

Im using all the gears including first gear to slow down to 10 mph to minimize risk on my commute Gotta make it till friday when it goes into the shop for (oh boy) Blehmco LTB-2, new rotors and... poly bushings !!! Man I hope it stops rolling around some!For rotors I figured I'd go blank brembos...

Sounbwoy, I do have an SE but I'd hate to give up the fog lights until if and when it becomes a true track car- At that point I will take out the A/C and side airbag and anything else that sounds disposable. Ive also read about the 3.5 swap and man that sounds pretty sweet.. especially considering that the 3.5 is actually lighter than the VQ.

And, while thinking about turning it into a track car, does anybody care to give an opinion about how much faster the car would be on a decent set of coilovers compared to Eibach/Konis?

Also, thanks for the tip about the brake shields

I was at Thunderhill (.com) and it was rad- Did the time trials/rented a transponder. Best time (unless I bested it in the last session/doubt it) was 2:19.5xx pretty good for street tires! And since I totally running off at the mouth I will also say that it is pretty noticable how much better the tires hook when they have ground down to 1/2 of new treadwear. Im looking forward to wearing them out though because everyone else in TT is on racing rubber and I would guess I can drop about 10 seconds for every 2.5 min of laptime or around there. OK, I have managed to get 3 threads into 1 reply. Cheers-

 

Hey Spaniard,

I came up to you on Saturday, remember me? I drive a white 240SX, and I used to be a very active member here.

thanks for all the old videos on your car domain site. honestly, you should post up new ones! I think you've improved by ~10 seconds since then?

if you have time, I'd like to talk to you about certain parts of the track and all. and things like how to advance in HPDE as quickly as possible.

It was my first time out there today and I had a great time! I hope to see you there a lot during this hot summer...

anyway, try autobarn.com for brembo blanks. I got them there, the best part is, shipping is only $6 total and my rear rotors were only $16 each. Fronts were about $46...totalling to around 128 shipped. not bad huh?

I think if you bed in your pads/rotors correctly, you release any stresses in the rotor through the heating cycles.

p.s. you were right, my Azenis RT-215's got a bit slippery. By the 3rd and 4th runs (which had only 20 minutes in between), the rear seemed a little loose (but still very stable at the speed I was at)...and it felt nice, haha.

 

And, while thinking about turning it into a track car, does anybody care to give an opinion about how much faster the car would be on a decent set of coilovers compared to Eibach/Konis?

The car should be MUCH better on coilovers. One advantage of this setup is the ability to CORNER WEIGHT the car (trying to attain the best balance of weight front to rear). It's not as easy as making sure the numbers are the same front to back, so when and if you do coliovers, you should take the car to a race shop to have them assist you with that. But you WILL feel a difference.


And since I totally running off at the mouth I will also say that it is pretty noticable how much better the tires hook when they have ground down to 1/2 of new treadwear.

The lower the height of the tread block, the better the grip. BUT a lot of that has to do with tire construction as well. That's why slicks stick so well. There is a maximum contact patch on the road. A slick STREET tire however wil offer LESS grip and will actually be more dangerous, so get some real racing rubber...

 

Yea I remember you! It was cool to meet there. So, how did it go? Pretty fun stuff, eh? Im going to be there in June also, let me know if you are going to show up- maybe we can work out a passenger session swap..

 

Check out the pix, talk about fubared rotors...

 

Double check it to see if the Inner vent was damage by the drilling.

 

I dont understand...?

 

some companies who drill rotors drill thru the vent walls making the rotor very weak and more prone to cracking, if you look into the rotor vents from the top or sides you can see where the drilled holes end up on the inside of the rotor. they should not go thru any of the vent walls. also when rotors are cross drilled they should be chamfered to help prevent the cracking but it looks like those ones werent which could have caused it to crack earlier

either way when using a pad like the hp+, blanks would be the best rotors to use

 

Thank you for posting those pics. It's amazing how far down the rotor the crack went.
I'm guessing those have straight vanes, so they can be mounted on either side, but don't cool very efficiently. Which way were you running them?

 

I honestly don't know. Sadly, I have spent money to do most every mod.

What I did find interesting is that the cracks almost all went from holes that were in-line; directly from the hub to the outer diameter, know what Im getting at? If I was going to design cross drilled rotors, they would not line up holes in that pattern. (e.g. like a radius)

Edit- another way of putting it is that where there were 2 holes in the width of the rotor, it busted.

 

Sorry for catching this so late. Everybody I talked to at local Midwest Council meetings said blanks or slotted only for track use. Cryo treating can help with both reducing wear and warpage. Larger rotors sometimes help braking but air ducting can often accomplish the same thing given correct pads. Oh, and pads & rotors often need to be matched correctly in compounds to either from being eaten away too quickly.

 

Now on brembo blanks, considering some ducting work to help cool them.

 

Spaniard...the undisputed king of Home depot ducting

 

You can do it! We can help!

 

I try to warn everyone not to ever buy xdrilled rotors. Most people refuse to listen.

 

It seems like Im always buying rotors before I get some key info... Currently looking for lighter weight rotors. www.thebrakeman.com

 

Maybe its me but it seems like all cross drilled rotors are being cursed here regardless of brand. I am still debating what I shall put on my 91 max. I like the 13 rotors with the muskrat 17 wheel but the article didnt say on how to go about buying the parts.

 

frozen rotors. =D.. i dont 'know if anyone suggested them since i didn't read through the thread. i had powerslots before when i did the 300zx retrofit and i liked them alot too.

 

my old drilled rotors on my 3000gt didnt crack and i set the pads on fire.
twice.


stillen drilled rotors and stillen MM pads. i wouldnt reccomend the pads but the rotors went to hell and back and lived to tell about it. i will be using them again on my GFs non-turbo stealth with porterfields.