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15" r compounds

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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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15" r compounds

I notice most everone on this forum autocrosses on plus-sized tires, I run in a stock class (scca) and have to use 15's, does anyone recommend a 15" r-compound? Most of the 15" race tires I have looked at are 205/50-15, which is the same size as the miata, but they generally only have about an 1100lb load rating, which means my rather porky 4th gen would pushing the load limits when sitting still. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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You're right, the 205 would be melted let alone dangerous to push. IIRC your choices would be a 15x6.5 and 16x6.5 rim. Lots of 225/50/15 R tires out there most with 91 load ratings (plenty for the Max). A032R, V700, Ecsta, V710, etc.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 96gxe5spd
I notice most everone on this forum autocrosses on plus-sized tires, I run in a stock class (scca) and have to use 15's, does anyone recommend a 15" r-compound? Most of the 15" race tires I have looked at are 205/50-15, which is the same size as the miata, but they generally only have about an 1100lb load rating, which means my rather porky 4th gen would pushing the load limits when sitting still. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
You could run 16's in stock, since the SE came with 16's. I run street tire Kumho's, those things will not overheat, R-compound's I hear are similar in their durability.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:11 AM
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the problem with running 16s is that technically, you would have to swap over EVERTYHING on the SE trim line to be able to run them...

for most local classes, they're not going to care, but you'd better watch out if you go to a divisional or national event.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
the problem with running 16s is that technically, you would have to swap over EVERTYHING on the SE trim line to be able to run them...

for most local classes, they're not going to care, but you'd better watch out if you go to a divisional or national event.
That wasn't my understanding, I thought you just had to prove that whatever rim size is available for the year you are driving. So he could run 16's just like I could run 15's because both rim sizes were available for those years.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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If the 16" could be ordered from the dealer on a GXE back in '96 (in the case of 96gxe5spd) as just a line item option (like floormats, cargo net, etc.) then that's what was considered stock back then and it's ok.

6.5" wheel limit is still the tough limit. That's why Hoosier changed it's rimbead on the A3S04 or 05 from the older 03 style. It mounts to wheels about .5" more narrow.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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http://conecrazy.org/forum/viewtopic...ze+stock+class

from the 2005 SCCA Rulebook:
"Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
it is the same width and diameter as standard, and as installed
(including wheel spacers if applicable) it does not have an offset more
than +/- 0.25 inch from a standard wheel for the car. The resultant
change in track dimensions is allowed."
(page 64)

Except for modifications authorized below, Stock Category cars must
be run as specified by the factory with only standard equipment as
defined by these Rules. This requirement refers not just to individual
parts, but to combinations thereof which would have been ordered
together on a specific car. Any other modifications or equipment will
place the car in Street Prepared, Prepared or Modified Categories as
appropriate. Configurations involving damaged parts (e.g., blown
fuses) are not typically authorized by the manufacturer and hence are
not allowed.

Option package conversions may be performed between specific
vehicles of a particular make and model, but only between
configurations from within a particular model year. Such conversions
must be totally complete and the resultant car must meet all
requirements of this Section. Alternate parts listed in a factory parts
manual are not authorized unless their use is specifically referenced in
the factory service manual or in a service bulletin for the specific
model.
(pages 59,61)

In plain english, that means that if you're running 16" wheels on a 97-99 4th gen, it must already be an SE, or you MUST convert everything on the car to SE trim- UNLESS you could buy the 16" SE wheels as an add-on package from Nissan when you purchased the car.... which was not the case from what I understand.
(there's a difference between buying wheels from the dealer and having them factory installed as an option).

the conversion mentioned above includes everything that changes on the car between trim lines... gauges, SE model springs (I think they're stiffer, no?), suspension bushings since they are stiffer, any and all interior options like white-faced gauges, leather, heated seats, and any/all other options that came on the SE package.

95-96 SE models must only run 15" wheels, because that's all they used for the entire model year.
Old Oct 6, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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Thanks for the info, as a clarification the base gxe model had steel 15x6 w/40mm offset, the SE had 15x6.5 w/45mm offset sawblade alloys, and the GLE had alloys the same dimensions in like a checkerboard style. 16's were not available until 1997, and then only on the se, the gle and gxe got the sawblades that year.

A question directed mostly at bejay: I've been autocrossing for around a year (about ten events) and have gotten fairly competitive (I finished within two seconds of the long standing class leader in my region, he was on race rubber) and will attend an Evolution driving school tomorrow . I would like to get on R-compounds assuming the scca doesn't royally screw up the stock classes for 2006. I understand the Hoosiers are pretty unforgiving, and very hard core, is there a milder R-compound in 225 width that can deal with the 6.5 inch rim without the easy flat spotting and other horrors of the A3s04/5, more geared to a first time race tire?

And also, does anyone know if the 225-50/15 will fit under the fender alright? I mean I'm sure for day to day driving it wouldn't rub, but throw in the cornering forces (and compulsory stock class roll) and I wonder if the 225 would rub. I'm asking because I don't want to spend 150 plus per tire just to rip one to shreds the first race and then have to sell the set of "used" race tires for like a nickel. Has anyone tried the 225-50/15 on 15x6.5 on a maxima, and if so what kind of wheel offset was used.

Thanks for all the info, if I have a pretty sucessful regional season in 06, expect a maxima to show up for some nationals in 2007!
Old Oct 7, 2005 | 07:22 AM
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Try looking at Victoracers or Toyo RA-1 if you're looking for an R comp tire that's more forgiving and lasts longer than hoosiers.

I have run the RA-1 at auto X and road course events and liked them, but the sidewalls were too soft for my car. I have flatspotted the RA-1 a time or two, but it was because I was hauling *** down a straight at 125+mph and a Viper pulled out of pit lane right into the racing line. I've done it going into a couple corners during regular driving as well, but usually only when the tires and track were colder- 60deg days and such.

running them in 225/50/15 shouldn't be a problem with sidewall wear or with rubbing inside the car. I've seen guys run up to 255s on 17s and 18s in there, so surely some 225s will fit.

honestly, I'd try the victoracers first and see how you like them. they're not that expensive for R comps and should do you pretty good.
Old Oct 7, 2005 | 07:27 AM
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I'm sure you're already running the Evo phase 1 stuff already - let us know what you think.

As for tires - first of all if you're a GXE then you're stuck with running a 15x6 not the 15x6.5 right? Second 225/50/15's fit fine but on wider rims. BioMax and 4DSport both used that size. It will drop you another .8" in ride height which should help on stock springs. The trouble will be a 225 tire on a 6" rim. Rule of thumb is you're trying for 85%+ wheel width to tire section ratio to support the cornering forces. Or according to Hoosier "wheel width = to tread width". I'm pretty sure you're gonna get rollover and serious sidewall squirm on a 6". Heck I run 225's on the street on 8" rims myself. Maybe find some used Rcompounds, mount em and try em without blowing a wad of cash? Look into A032R's or VictoRacer V700's as those are a bit harder and longer life design.
Old Oct 7, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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Bejay, on that note, would you consider it wise to run a 235/40/17 on my 17x8 track wheels, or go with a bit more narrow tire?

I was always under the impression that you want to stick the widest tire that will fit on there, but these 235s keep chewing off the corners and sidewalls, even at -3 camber and 50psi cold.
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Bejay, on that note, would you consider it wise to run a 235/40/17 on my 17x8 track wheels, or go with a bit more narrow tire?

I was always under the impression that you want to stick the widest tire that will fit on there, but these 235s keep chewing off the corners and sidewalls, even at -3 camber and 50psi cold.
Which tire today are you chewing up now? Yeah 8" is pretty much the low end to mount a 235.
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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I'm sorry bejay, I should have mentioned above that the 15x6.5 inch alloy was available as a factory installed option on the gxe, I will be using 6.5 inch rims. I will check out the A032r and the V700 to see if some could work.
thanks again
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 96gxe5spd
I'm sorry bejay, I should have mentioned above that the 15x6.5 inch alloy was available as a factory installed option on the gxe, I will be using 6.5 inch rims. I will check out the A032r and the V700 to see if some could work.
thanks again
I'll keep on the lookout on other boards as well. Like Matt mentioned the Toyo's would be a good choice too but their sizing won't help you. Once you do get some you're gonna need additional pressures to help them - 70%-78% width ratio is still worrying me.

What's everybody else in Gstock doing?
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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on a 17X8....235/40/17 would be fine....I run 235/45/17 and am moving to the 235/40/17's on my 17x7.5's!!!...you need to run higher pressures since the RA-1's are softer in sidewall...chalk the sides like a autoX'er and see how they are rolling over...also buy them shaved as I do...they tend to chunk and eat up the sidewalls in their factory tread depth without shaving..!

the only rollover I get is when they are cold and the pressures are lower...you just have to remember to run them at higher pressures since are cars are heavier than most out there competing....
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 07:10 AM
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err, read my thread again.. I was running them at 50psi cold... before I could get them to stop rolling over at auto X, I had to have them up to about 63psi cold.
I was too scared to go that high at the road course. it's one thing to blow a tire in a corner at 30mph, but something completely different to blow one at 90mph.
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:58 AM
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wow...then I don't know what to say...at 50psi cold autoX'in...my 235/45/17 toyo ra-1's...on 17x7.5's don't rollover according to the chaulk I put on the sidewalls..anything bellow that does causes rollover in the front, but that is mostly because my suspension is too soft in the front and I need more negative camber...plus going to 235/40/17 should result in a little less rollover...

my rears don't rollover too bad even at 40 psi cold...

I guess we just need much stiffer suspension and some good negative camber up front since our cars are so nose heavy!!!
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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I'm running 450lb springs on all four corners and -3 camber up front...
the problem isn't soft springs or camber.
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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what does your alignment look like? when was the last time you had it checked? i wonder if it has to do with something else....
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I'm running 450lb springs on all four corners and -3 camber up front...
the problem isn't soft springs or camber.
Stop running mushy marshmellows for springs.
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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alignment was fine.. -2.5 to -3 camber in front, -1.5 in rear. 450lb springs and zero toe on all corners.. sus tech RSB, stock FSB.

you can see how much body roll I still have here:
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/hallett/sept_04/


and bejay, my 240 is running 8/6kg springs on it.. at 1000lb less. ouch!! my Maxima feels like a boat compared to it.
Old Oct 24, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
http://conecrazy.org/forum/viewtopic...ze+stock+class

from the 2005 SCCA Rulebook:

(page 64)

(pages 59,61)

In plain english, that means that if you're running 16" wheels on a 97-99 4th gen, it must already be an SE, or you MUST convert everything on the car to SE trim- UNLESS you could buy the 16" SE wheels as an add-on package from Nissan when you purchased the car.... which was not the case from what I understand.
(there's a difference between buying wheels from the dealer and having them factory installed as an option).

the conversion mentioned above includes everything that changes on the car between trim lines... gauges, SE model springs (I think they're stiffer, no?), suspension bushings since they are stiffer, any and all interior options like white-faced gauges, leather, heated seats, and any/all other options that came on the SE package.

95-96 SE models must only run 15" wheels, because that's all they used for the entire model year.
I'm not sure about everything that is different on an SE but everything INSIDE the car and including the rear spoiler could be considered comfort and convience. White face guages, leather seats, interior colors do not add or subtract performance.

Things that may matter if they are different, springs and sway bars. Shocks are open so there isn't much to convert. Climate control, etc was available as an option on SEs along with Bose, sunroof, etc.

I don't see any conversion being very hard, the SE is mainly a cosmetic package.

Your right about the 95-96 Max not being able to run the 16" but really unless you have some picky jerk looking at your car it isn't really going to effect the outcome of the event. '97s had the same HP, same weight, etc. You could just call it a '97 and no one would know the difference unless they are a Max expert.

Jeff
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