Running with the BMW club at Summit Point, some org'ers, though mostly not in maximas anymore:

Nick (95maxrider)




Patrick (phenryiv1) or Jason (cutler) driving Pat's Legacy - they got to run before the rain


me

 

a few more

 

WHOA. Those are some insane puddles. Very nice timing on the last picture.

 

pics were by a buddy of one of the BMW club guys. My crappy compact camera is virtually worthless at events like this (see first pic)!

 

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._5439827_n.jpg

wow thats cool

 

Looks like a fun day, even with the rain.

 

I love the pic of the white BMW......

 

Nice shots.

 

Very nice! It's been awhile since I AXed in the rain. Kinda miss the sliding in FWD.

 

Must have been fun with AWD.... on the other hand, i feel bad for the guys with RWD.

 

I don't feel bad for guys driving M3s and M Coupes...ever

 

yeah M3s are so much fun to drive. dont feel bad for us!

 

nice pics.. thanks for the share!!!

 

I can't imagine autocrossing a FWD in the rain. Understeer, much?? I'm thinking about taking my E36 out soon, but I want it to be dry!

 

Hey guys here's a video from the most recent auto-x. The slaloms seemed to be tighter than usual as evidenced by my sawing at the wheel. I can't wait to get that 97-99 SE steering rack!!



EDIT: Here are the results from the non-BMW class I run in:

1. 1999 Porsche 911 999.999+OFF 51.812 50.614 51.201 50.614
2. 1999 Porsche 911 53.514+2 51.779 51.121 51.381 51.121
3. 1996 Mazda Miata 52.674+1 51.542 52.629 57.084+1 51.542
4. 1999 Mazda Miata 56.754 54.601 53.611 51.893 51.893
5. 2007 Porsche 911 Turbo 50.611+OFF 51.959 52.718 56.112+OFF 51.959
6. 2006 Subaru WRX STI 52.858 52.018 51.971 51.427+1 51.971
7. 1991 Mazda Miata 53.950 53.310 52.764 52.662 52.662
8. 2001 Chevy Corvette Z06 52.832 55.897 54.405+1 53.468 52.832
9. 1994 Mazda Miata 57.305 56.032 55.140 53.621 53.621
10. 1996 Infiniti I30 56.514 55.729 55.274 54.634 54.634

There were 9 other cars that I beat....I didn't come in last. Here's a link to the results:
LINK

 

Damn, how long have you been auto'xing? Highest mid size sedan there.

 

I just started autocrossing my maxima and just had a wet event last weekend in NJ. The car overall handled fairly well, better than I thought, but had a little too much understeer in the carousels.
Do you have any tips on handling the max on dry, mostly, courses since I feel I am forcing the car too much, which means I might be taking corners too quick, etc.
I don't have a race setup, just shocks, struts, RSB, FTSB, and some new Falken on my stock 17s.
Thanks for the advice

 

Nice pics.

 

The SINGLE BEST THING you can do for handling is to get some lightweight 17s and put some Bridgeston RE11's or Dunlop Direzza Star Specs on them, and use those.

Whatever Falkens you're running, unless they're Azenis, cannot hold grip for a car the size of the Max, nor do they have stiff enough sidewalls not to buckle in the hard stuff....some RE11's or Star Specs will give you massive grip (still street tires) and greatly improve your times.

Best advice with the Max...brake early, light accel through apex, punch it once you come near straight...

Camber goes a long way too, especially up front, but unless you have plates, you really can't do much about that.

 

looks like a pretty clean run Nick...only thing I could critique is the hand positioning getting a bit messy at a couple points, might have cost a tenth or two....shuffle and slide baby

 

I don't know how you can do shuffle & slide when you're going damn near lock to lock for every corner!

 

Yeah, my steering rack is leaking pretty badly and I have a bunch of worn out bushings. Turns out the mechanic who I paid to install my ES bushings never did and probably just threw them away and charged me for them. Keep in mind this was 4 years ago. I'm in the process of getting parts together for installing the 97-99 SE rack, and here's what I've got so far:

OEM sway bar end link bushings
OEM sway bar frame mount bushings
OEM Outer tie rods
OEM Steering rack bushings
OEM end links
O rings for the PS hoses

I also reordered the ES sway bar bushing, sub frame bushing and CA bushings. Turns out I'm missing a bolt on the sub frame and the bushings in there are shot, and since my radiator support is rusting, I might as well get it all done at the same time. Thank god I'm working at a garage or I would not be able to afford to pay someone to do the work for me.

I also ordered two bushings for a B14 Sentra from Superpro; the rear beam axle pivot pushing and the front sway bar lower link bushing. I'm not entirely sure which bushing that is, and it might be the same one ES sells, but it's only $12, so I figured I would order it and see what happens.

So basically I've been running around with stock bushings for the last 4 years thinking I had the ES stuff in there. I can't wait for the next auto-x with the new rack and proper bushings, it's going to be amazing!!! I will actually be able to use the proper hand positioning

 

lol...I just meant in the slalom

yeah, my radiator support (which also supports THE ENGINE, btw), was rusted to hell when I sold my car. It actually worried me quite a bit and I strongly suggested that the buyer fix it asap....what a poor design!

bushings should really help the overall responsiveness of the car, though some of those are going to be quite the PITA to install. I never got around to doing rack bushings, which I always regretted not doing.

 

Thanks Irish for the input. Yes, the tires are Azenis on my stock 6spoke 17s. They aren't the lightest things, but I am looking for some new wider 17 when I get the chance. I was thinking maybe a wide 16 like from a 300 TT, I think they were 16x8.5 so I can fit some 255 or similar to help out. I am in the process of installing new ES bushings and a LTB.

 

nice...note that a stage II LTB will put you up into E Prepared (assuming someone notices). Stage I you can use in STX/STU (IIRC) and DSP.

You would do fine with some used 17x8 rotas or enkeis off craigslist or something too, if you can't find the TT wheels. Run an offset around 30-35mm for a wider stance but not too much hit on scrub radius.

The Azenis should be fine though, but on a wider rim they'll be more responsive. You could also have them shaved for better grip.

 

A Stage I LTB is legal in any class they allow a FSTB. I believe you're allowed one or the other, but not both. Read the specifics to your class rules, but it says something like "one brace or stay rod/prop attaching to a single point on either side of the upper or lower suspension mounting points."

something to that effect. I believe they're even allowed in STS. :shrug:

 

Why do people insist on calling RT-615s Azenis? Azenis is a class of tire that Falken makes, consisting of the RT-615 and the ST-115. The RT-615 is the tire you're referring to.

They were 16x8.5 +35 in the rear, I sold a full set of the 16x8.5 rears awhile back. I loved those wheels.

Find him and shoot him. Nothing pisses me off more than crap like this.

 

So I may be able to buy some used Stillen camber plates. Any idea what they are worth?

 

I got mine for cheap (about $150), who are you buying em off of, crusher?

 

MorpheusZero

Because this is the autocross and track section, and the 615 is the "Azenis" that is applicable to autocros or road courses, while the ST-115 is really just a "street tuner" tire...

but yes, considering that we were discussing with an autocross noob, I should have clarified. I've just never known anyone to actually use the 115s, so I didn't think of them at all. Usually when someone says "Azenis" I think 215s

[/QUOTE]

 

Good luck finding some. When I got mine about 4-5 years ago now it took me 6 months of looking around to find some. When I sold them 2 years later IIRC it was for close to what they went for new, because they're out of production and pretty rare these days.

I would say you should be ready to pay $350-400 for them from the few I've seen sell used over the years...

2 notes about them:
1. Because of the design, they actually will raise the front of the car about 1/2-3/4" compared to a standard/OEM tophat assembly.
2. I could not get mine to stay quiet for any length of time. No amount of lubrication, resetting, reassembling, etc would do it. I think there was a flaw in the design of the pillowball mount or whatever it was...they were so annoying, that's why I got rid of them.



btw, I'll call you next week about the detailing thing...I'm super-freaking-busy this weekend with the other job and will be working like 35 hours in the next 3 days....