Hey guys, I'm looking into relocating my battery to the trunk, but I'm not sure what I should be looking for in a kit. Aluminum box? Wiring included? How do I make sure it doesn't fly through the back seat in the event of an accident? Good access to the battery?

I'm sure some FI guys have done this already, but I couldn't find any good info on doing this on a 4th gen. Anyone have any tips or advice?

Here are some kits I found....

Taylor Cable kit $160
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48103/

SARD $230
http://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-aluminu...tion-kit-13275

Thoughts?

 

I just installed the Taylor cable kit with the 2 gauge wire, works pretty good and starts right up like a stock Maxima even with the DEK swap.

The only issue I found with the Taylor kit was the positive wire is short, I ended up running the positive on the passenger side of the car through the plastic wire conduit, drilled a 1/2" hole in the wheel well, sealed it up good, and cut/spliced onto the primary wire of the alternator.

The battery box is positioned in the trunk as far right and back as I could get it, it sits above the muffler roughly. Not ideal but I like where it is to maintain room in the trunk for my tools/track tires and all the weight including the wires are in somewhat benefical location for improved handling. Ideally I would put the battery on the floor behind the front passenger seat, but safety rules in my class don't allow a battery in the passenger compartment. Race cars can get away with it, not me.

It added about 10 pounds of weight to car, however I was able to scrap the stock battery tray and some battery wiring which all weighed 4 pounds and I still have to trim the positive wiring where the battery once sat for better looks and less weight. The left front of our cars is over weight so moving the battery to the right rear helps out in the weight distrubution department.

Since I scrapped my stock battery location I have to add a master kill switch for some SCCA/NHRA events. It will sit above the right tail light with those stupid stickers.I have to buy some more two gauge wire and connectors to get that all done.

 

I was also wondering about moving the battery in from the right rear to the back of the seat. What is more important, changing overall weight distribution of a lower polar moment of inertia?

 

Behind the passenger seat is ideal but not safe on a street car, next would be next to the right rear strut tower, worst case is where I put it in the trunk. Actually worst case is leaving it in the stock location. When I corner weighted the car the left front was a bit heavier due to the battery and transmission.

If you are going to add weight put it behind the front strut towers and in front of the rear strut towers. I placed the battery in a place that would not comprimise trunk space to much. Also it was to add the most weight to the right rear tire, even at the expense of more polar inertia.

If you want to reduce some polar inertia get some aluminum '95 bumpers, if they fit the I30. When I did that convertion it made a noticeable difference in handling.

There is still a hundred things to do on this car and I have not driven it much with the battery in it's new home. So I can't comment on the handling difference, odds are with everything else I am doing it will not be that noticeable.

 

I was at work the other day when I posted this so I didn't clink on the links to Summit or SARD. Looking at the pictures I like the SARD design better, it might be a bit heavier and cost more money than the Taylor but it looks alot more sturdy. The Taylor box is thin and bends easily, everything has to be secured really well to get the box to feel solid. Both the Taylor and SARD are a sealed design, as they both include a vent tube. Though the SARD doesn't look like it comes with any battery wire, which adds another $30~$60 dollars to the battery relocation swap for big wire.

 

I purchased my kit from Summit Racing, kit installed easily. I ran the positive wire into the LF fender from behind the strut tower and through the firewall via wire harness gromet that's accessable by removing the fenderwell plastic.

 

Very blatant mention here for my '95 lightweight bumper support for sale

 

Just buy a battery box from Summit Racing. They also sell heavy gauge wire, battery terminals, and crimp on rings. Like 20' of red, 5' black wire, total was under $120 shipped!

In my friends track maxima he put battery box and 200 amp fuse behind his race seat. There's a junction box in the engine bay, with power directly to starter, and 60a fuses for the 2 accessory wires.
Very nice setup, will see if I can finds pics.

 

FI here. Relocated to the trunk, got the wire from a stereo shop, cartoys, etc, you can get the other connection accessories there too, Walmart sells battery boxes for $10, that's where I got mines. $50-$100 you can get this done.

 

Does anyone else have trunk and under hood pics?

 

 

What about this kit from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1231-K/

It's plastic, sealed and has a vent tube. For our cars, the most important thing is having a sealed box, right? How important is material?

 

The reason you are having a problem is because the cable from the trunk mounted battery should go directly to the starter solenoid and not to the old cable. If you follow the old positive cable (red) you will find where it connects to the solenoid. Connect the trunk battery cable there.

 

The positive cable should go to a distribution block in the engine bay. From there, a large cable goes to starter, and 2 fused smaller wires to the original accessory wires.

 

Ok, this Moroso is also sealed, any thoughts?


MOROSO

 

I elected to just relocate a lighter battery down lower and forget running any special cables. An Optima resides there now in fact.

 

/\ That bay is filthy!

But those batt are pretty light. Down low helps, but it would be best to remove every single pound sitting ahead of the axles.

 

I moved mine to the rear but I didn't buy the kit I just picked up what I needed from different stores...much cheaper.