Alcan 5000 in a 2001 SE
08-17-2011, 10:33 AM
#1
Alcan 5000 in a 2001 SE
So...
There has been this discussion in my circle of friends about running a touring rally race, like the Targa Newfoundland or the Alcan 5000.
We have a couple of candidate cars:
1. 1996 Audi A4 manual, turbo I4
2. (my) 2001 Nissan Maxima SE20A auto with LSD, Canadian ed.
My background (although I don't do this anymore) is a VW and truck mechanic, and the Max has been in the family since new. I am familiar with both platforms, and have driven each in the conditions one would encounter in the Alcan 5000 race from Seattle to Tuktoyaktuk, over the ice road, etc. The Max had zero issues driving the distance from Vancouver to Seattle in the big and sudden snow of 2006, and has crossed the Crow's Nest from Hope to Penticton on numerous 12" snow days, stock except for the Nokian WR2 tires.
I think the Audi rally mods are well understood, so I'll leave this off. It also operates in a different class with different computer assist restrictions unless I want to be running up against the big-budget people.
The Max would only compete against other 2WD vehicles, which would, IMO, make it quite the contender with the right mods.
Since bringing the car to VA, the car has had H&R springs and Tokico Illuminas added and some other odds and sods fixed (like a new Bosch reman alternator), but it's basically stock. It would be converted back to DD use after the rally.
The stuff one would prudently take on an Arctic car race would obviously come along, and will take up about half of the available room in the vehicle.
Here is my list of mods if the car were to do the race:
Body:
Remove rear seats, trunk trim, little spare.
Wet Okole Seat covers
flat black 3M wrap for the hood to reduce glare
Mechanical:
- add front and rear strut braces
- replace electronic motor mounts with manual, possibly energy suspension mount inserts
- fab up an aluminum bottom engine cover
- the front brakes are due, and I am thinking going with the powerstop slotted and drilled kit that includes the pad, but leave the rest stock
- Battery isolator, mount second battery in trunk area, parallel bypass switch. This battery gets taken inside at night so the thing will start in the morning when temps are -30F and lower.
- maximum added driving lights, PIAA or otherwise, either two or four, depending on whether the race organizers count the fog lights as "additional" lights.
A CAI is not a factor, since a) it'll be cold as **** out, and b) it's an endurance race, where acceleration takes second seat to traction.
Lightweight wheels are either too fragile or out of my price reach. Obviously, the Max equivalent of the Subie WRX STi wheels would be awesome, but I don't have that kind of dosh.
Spare Parts List:
- spare belts
- spare belt tensioner
- ways to fix the hose
- two ignition coils
Questions:
Keep the H&R springs or return to stock height?
Is the 6th Gen BB upgrade really all that, given that I'd need to replace the stock wheels (which I intend to use with the Nokian WRs)?
I'd be tempted to replace the hood with a plastic molded version if one could be found or fabbed, to lose that weight. Ideas?
I was mulling over taking off the back bumper and building a shelf that bolts onto the I-beam back there for a couple of fuel cans. The issue is the license plate location, as well as potentially interfering with the tail lights. The alternative is removing the trunk lid, sealing the trunk, and using that - per the rules one may not have a fuel container enclosed in the vehicle.
Any simple, affordable mods you'd suggest?
There has been this discussion in my circle of friends about running a touring rally race, like the Targa Newfoundland or the Alcan 5000.
We have a couple of candidate cars:
1. 1996 Audi A4 manual, turbo I4
2. (my) 2001 Nissan Maxima SE20A auto with LSD, Canadian ed.
My background (although I don't do this anymore) is a VW and truck mechanic, and the Max has been in the family since new. I am familiar with both platforms, and have driven each in the conditions one would encounter in the Alcan 5000 race from Seattle to Tuktoyaktuk, over the ice road, etc. The Max had zero issues driving the distance from Vancouver to Seattle in the big and sudden snow of 2006, and has crossed the Crow's Nest from Hope to Penticton on numerous 12" snow days, stock except for the Nokian WR2 tires.
I think the Audi rally mods are well understood, so I'll leave this off. It also operates in a different class with different computer assist restrictions unless I want to be running up against the big-budget people.
The Max would only compete against other 2WD vehicles, which would, IMO, make it quite the contender with the right mods.
Since bringing the car to VA, the car has had H&R springs and Tokico Illuminas added and some other odds and sods fixed (like a new Bosch reman alternator), but it's basically stock. It would be converted back to DD use after the rally.
The stuff one would prudently take on an Arctic car race would obviously come along, and will take up about half of the available room in the vehicle.
Here is my list of mods if the car were to do the race:
Body:
Remove rear seats, trunk trim, little spare.
Wet Okole Seat covers
flat black 3M wrap for the hood to reduce glare
Mechanical:
- add front and rear strut braces
- replace electronic motor mounts with manual, possibly energy suspension mount inserts
- fab up an aluminum bottom engine cover
- the front brakes are due, and I am thinking going with the powerstop slotted and drilled kit that includes the pad, but leave the rest stock
- Battery isolator, mount second battery in trunk area, parallel bypass switch. This battery gets taken inside at night so the thing will start in the morning when temps are -30F and lower.
- maximum added driving lights, PIAA or otherwise, either two or four, depending on whether the race organizers count the fog lights as "additional" lights.
A CAI is not a factor, since a) it'll be cold as **** out, and b) it's an endurance race, where acceleration takes second seat to traction.
Lightweight wheels are either too fragile or out of my price reach. Obviously, the Max equivalent of the Subie WRX STi wheels would be awesome, but I don't have that kind of dosh.
Spare Parts List:
- spare belts
- spare belt tensioner
- ways to fix the hose
- two ignition coils
Questions:
Keep the H&R springs or return to stock height?
Is the 6th Gen BB upgrade really all that, given that I'd need to replace the stock wheels (which I intend to use with the Nokian WRs)?
I'd be tempted to replace the hood with a plastic molded version if one could be found or fabbed, to lose that weight. Ideas?
I was mulling over taking off the back bumper and building a shelf that bolts onto the I-beam back there for a couple of fuel cans. The issue is the license plate location, as well as potentially interfering with the tail lights. The alternative is removing the trunk lid, sealing the trunk, and using that - per the rules one may not have a fuel container enclosed in the vehicle.
Any simple, affordable mods you'd suggest?
08-28-2011, 06:22 PM
#2
This type of event is not my thing so I lack knowledge, however one mod I would recommend is the Suprastick, You can have full control of the auto, with many options, can hook up paddle shifters, button to shifts, or even the cruise control buttons.
09-02-2011, 10:49 AM
#6
I'd run it at stock height personally, run se springs with tokico illumina shocks or something of that nature. ES motor mount bushings are awesome. Maxima's have a pretty standard bolt pattern, 5x114.3 so you can fit most other manufacturer's wheels on it, maybe find a set of lightweight wheels that come stock on another car, like the Mazda Millenia for example.
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