Just detailed with Klasse AIO, SG and 2 coats of P21S
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,242
From: Portland, OR
Just detailed with Klasse AIO, SG and 2 coats of P21S
Today was my first time using P21S and I could not believe how easy this stuff is to use. I could not believe the shine afterwards. I bought it online at www.autogeek.com and used a 10% off coupon (code-detailcity) and ended up around $20! Time for a beer 
check out the shine.....




check out the shine.....



Very nice, Dave!
That stuff is great.....and you're right - very easy to use.
I wish it was nice enough weather for me to do that right now. My super black looks more like super white.. D.a.m.n. salt
That stuff is great.....and you're right - very easy to use.
I wish it was nice enough weather for me to do that right now. My super black looks more like super white.. D.a.m.n. salt
Jimz: You can top Klasse SG, Zaino, or any polymer with a carnuba wax to add depth and gloss to your handiwork. Many folks here will top with S100, P21S, Souveran (my fave), and even Meguiar's #26.
Titanium: Here's how it's done (Using Klasse):
a) Prep the paint surface with Klasse All In One. All In One not only polishes away very minor imperfections but will also prep the surface for the application of Klasse's Sealant Glaze
b) Apply Klasse Sealant Glaze. Do not go larger than a dime when applying this stuff, otherwise you are going to get the infamous Klasse Haze. After removing the Glaze, let it cure for 24 hrs. Many folks repeat application of the glaze 2-3 more times.
c) After your final coat of SG has cured, top with the carnuba wax of your choice.
Titanium: Here's how it's done (Using Klasse):
a) Prep the paint surface with Klasse All In One. All In One not only polishes away very minor imperfections but will also prep the surface for the application of Klasse's Sealant Glaze
b) Apply Klasse Sealant Glaze. Do not go larger than a dime when applying this stuff, otherwise you are going to get the infamous Klasse Haze. After removing the Glaze, let it cure for 24 hrs. Many folks repeat application of the glaze 2-3 more times.
c) After your final coat of SG has cured, top with the carnuba wax of your choice.
Can you apply Klasse SG on top of carnuba wax? Its hard for me to believe that some of those guys who have 5+ coats of SG on there car did not wax the car between applications, especially with the 24 hour wait time between each coat of SG. Say you apply the first coat of SG on Saturday morning, per the directions, you can't apply the 2nd coat until Sunday morning, then another 24 hours to cure before applying the 3rd coat. If you work during the week, you mostly likely want have the time to apply another coat of SG until the next weekend, in the mean time do you drive around with no wax on your car?
Originally Posted by ICULookN
Can you apply Klasse SG on top of carnuba wax? Its hard for me to believe that some of those guys who have 5+ coats of SG on there car did not wax the car between applications, especially with the 24 hour wait time between each coat of SG. Say you apply the first coat of SG on Saturday morning, per the directions, you can't apply the 2nd coat until Sunday morning, then another 24 hours to cure before applying the 3rd coat. If you work during the week, you mostly likely want have the time to apply another coat of SG until the next weekend, in the mean time do you drive around with no wax on your car?
a) No, you cannot put a carnuba wax in between applications of Klasse SG. The reason I say this is because the sealant glaze needs to cross link with the surface it is applied to.
b) You are actually driving around with a polymer sealant glaze on your vehicle which will provide a greater level of durability than a carnuba. The only reason wax is applied on top of a polymer is to give the shine a greater depth. This is usually an optional step.
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
What do you guys use for swirls? I have them all over my Max. I tried 3m Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Cars but it did nothing.
You will probably need to step up to something stronger like DACP or a Fine Cut product (3M), both of which will work by hand. You may or may not find you need to follow it up again with swirl remover to refine the finish. For all these products be sure you're working them in thoroughly.
After you're done polishing and waxing you'll have to prevent making more swirls in the future. This usually means proper washing habits and materials, as washing is often the cause of scratching and swirling.
Originally Posted by Bman
By *hand* it's not unusual that a polish as mild as a swirl remover is found to be ineffective. It's really only capable of dealing with very fine, very light swirling, even though it's called "swirl remover".
You will probably need to step up to something stronger like DACP or a Fine Cut product (3M), both of which will work by hand. You may or may not find you need to follow it up again with swirl remover to refine the finish. For all these products be sure you're working them in thoroughly.
After you're done polishing and waxing you'll have to prevent making more swirls in the future. This usually means proper washing habits and materials, as washing is often the cause of scratching and swirling.
You will probably need to step up to something stronger like DACP or a Fine Cut product (3M), both of which will work by hand. You may or may not find you need to follow it up again with swirl remover to refine the finish. For all these products be sure you're working them in thoroughly.
After you're done polishing and waxing you'll have to prevent making more swirls in the future. This usually means proper washing habits and materials, as washing is often the cause of scratching and swirling.
Where do you purchase Klasse Products ???
So it goes 1) Klasse All in One 2) Sealant glaze....As many as 5 times with time between??? 3) Carnuba Wax of your choice
-matt
So it goes 1) Klasse All in One 2) Sealant glaze....As many as 5 times with time between??? 3) Carnuba Wax of your choice
-matt
you can purchase KLASSE products with the LINK MaximaDave provides in his webpage. Im about to order the P21S.
One question though... when you apply the first coating of Klasse SG... I cant drive the car for 24 hours... so if I apply two layers.. I cant drive the car for 48hrs?? is that how it goes? Im just wondering.... because i need to use my car....
One question though... when you apply the first coating of Klasse SG... I cant drive the car for 24 hours... so if I apply two layers.. I cant drive the car for 48hrs?? is that how it goes? Im just wondering.... because i need to use my car....
Originally Posted by maximadave
I just ordered all that stuff came to $67.15 shipped
---how does your car feel on the outside...like a baby's bottom ??
One question---when applying the SG, do you do it over and over then let it cure, or one coat, then cure, than another, let cure ??
How is that carnuba wax by the way ??
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,242
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by matty
I just ordered all that stuff came to $67.15 shipped
---how does your car feel on the outside...like a baby's bottom ??
One question---when applying the SG, do you do it over and over then let it cure, or one coat, then cure, than another, let cure ??
How is that carnuba wax by the way ??
-matt
---how does your car feel on the outside...like a baby's bottom ??
One question---when applying the SG, do you do it over and over then let it cure, or one coat, then cure, than another, let cure ??
How is that carnuba wax by the way ??
-matt
I dont have kids so I dont know how smooth a baby's bottom is
ive only done one coat of SG so far. Ive done a total of 4 coats of P21S as of today.
The P21S is da bomb. Extremely easy on and off. Just remember to do one section at a time. Don't do it in the sunlight and don't let it dry to a haze. Yes, it says this on the jar.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,242
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by maximo-SE
you can purchase KLASSE products with the LINK MaximaDave provides in his webpage. Im about to order the P21S.
One question though... when you apply the first coating of Klasse SG... I cant drive the car for 24 hours... so if I apply two layers.. I cant drive the car for 48hrs?? is that how it goes? Im just wondering.... because i need to use my car....
One question though... when you apply the first coating of Klasse SG... I cant drive the car for 24 hours... so if I apply two layers.. I cant drive the car for 48hrs?? is that how it goes? Im just wondering.... because i need to use my car....
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
Thanks Bman. Should I start out with my product (3M Swirl Remover for Dark Cars) and follow with Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner/Polish? What are your thoughts on PUPP?

How Klasse application works: You CAN drive the car while you're waiting out the 24 hour cure period, but you should re-wash the car before applying the next layer. You do AIO once or twice, then apply SG, let it dry thoroughly (0.5-1+ hours depending on temp and humidity), and then you wait roughly 24 hours to let it set up. You might want to wait longer if it's really cold and humid. Then you apply the next coat of SG and wait 24 hours again, and so on, and so on....
Applying carnauba is 100% optional. It's just something people do to try and change or enhance the "look". Keep in mind that trying to apply more SG afterwards is an "iffy" thing though, because you can't put SG on top of carnauba.
Originally Posted by matty
is it a good wax to use ??
-matt
-matt
Originally Posted by maximo-SE
ONE QUESTION.... can i find Klasse or P21 in Autozone or Lappens????
While it's great to see people taking an interest in "serious" detailing techniques I think it's good to take a step back once in a while and know where this idea came from and what it was all about. What started off as a "trick" some hardcore detailing enthusiasts were experimenting with a few years ago has exploded into a trendy (and dangerously close to being overhyped) combination at the present due to the spread of the internet. You don't truly need a carnauba wax topper over your polymer sealant, but you can if you're feeling a little more ambitious. I guess what I'm trying to say is to not get caught in the trap of putting too much emphasis on protection products, and to pay just as much (or more) attention to detailing techniques, paint prep, and the materials you use. Just a little FYI and IMHO.
No, you generally don't have to wait before going from AIO to "whatever".
You can use P21S by itself, just not on a surface unprepped by anything. I mean you can't take it and slap it on a car that is oxidized or hasn't been detailed in a long time, that's all. You're not doing this though, I know.
You can use P21S by itself, just not on a surface unprepped by anything. I mean you can't take it and slap it on a car that is oxidized or hasn't been detailed in a long time, that's all. You're not doing this though, I know.
Originally Posted by Bman
Sorry I don't know a lot about PUPP, but it's a (broadly) similar idea to Klasse - pre-cleaner product plus protection. Yes, try SMR first one or two times on a patch of paint and see how that goes. If you're not getting results from it, try the DACP. Don't do it on the entire car only to find out it doesn't work... 
How Klasse application works: You CAN drive the car while you're waiting out the 24 hour cure period, but you should re-wash the car before applying the next layer. You do AIO once or twice, then apply SG, let it dry thoroughly (0.5-1+ hours depending on temp and humidity), and then you wait roughly 24 hours to let it set up. You might want to wait longer if it's really cold and humid. Then you apply the next coat of SG and wait 24 hours again, and so on, and so on....
Applying carnauba is 100% optional. It's just something people do to try and change or enhance the "look". Keep in mind that trying to apply more SG afterwards is an "iffy" thing though, because you can't put SG on top of carnauba.
I should warn you though, that P21S, while "good", is an enthusiast-oriented wax without cleaners. If you just want to wash (another) car and apply a wax to it once every few months without fuss, this probably isn't your best option. 99.9% of the population cannot tell the difference between using one wax over another anyway, and P21S by itself is not going to perform any miracles by itself. It really doesn't add anything to using Klasse other than appearance and maybe an extra sacrificial layer over top of it. Klasse on its own though, is amazingly durable enough already.
No. Definitely not in any major parts chain. Sometimes you can find Klasse in BMW or other German car dealerships, and you can find S100 at Harley Davidson (or sometimes other bike shops too) dealers. It's cheaper but otherwise seems to be (pretty much) the same as P21S.
While it's great to see people taking an interest in "serious" detailing techniques I think it's good to take a step back once in a while and know where this idea came from and what it was all about. What started off as a "trick" some hardcore detailing enthusiasts were experimenting with a few years ago has exploded into a trendy (and dangerously close to being overhyped) combination at the present due to the spread of the internet. You don't truly need a carnauba wax topper over your polymer sealant, but you can if you're feeling a little more ambitious. I guess what I'm trying to say is to not get caught in the trap of putting too much emphasis on protection products, and to pay just as much (or more) attention to detailing techniques, paint prep, and the materials you use. Just a little FYI and IMHO.

How Klasse application works: You CAN drive the car while you're waiting out the 24 hour cure period, but you should re-wash the car before applying the next layer. You do AIO once or twice, then apply SG, let it dry thoroughly (0.5-1+ hours depending on temp and humidity), and then you wait roughly 24 hours to let it set up. You might want to wait longer if it's really cold and humid. Then you apply the next coat of SG and wait 24 hours again, and so on, and so on....
Applying carnauba is 100% optional. It's just something people do to try and change or enhance the "look". Keep in mind that trying to apply more SG afterwards is an "iffy" thing though, because you can't put SG on top of carnauba.
I should warn you though, that P21S, while "good", is an enthusiast-oriented wax without cleaners. If you just want to wash (another) car and apply a wax to it once every few months without fuss, this probably isn't your best option. 99.9% of the population cannot tell the difference between using one wax over another anyway, and P21S by itself is not going to perform any miracles by itself. It really doesn't add anything to using Klasse other than appearance and maybe an extra sacrificial layer over top of it. Klasse on its own though, is amazingly durable enough already.
No. Definitely not in any major parts chain. Sometimes you can find Klasse in BMW or other German car dealerships, and you can find S100 at Harley Davidson (or sometimes other bike shops too) dealers. It's cheaper but otherwise seems to be (pretty much) the same as P21S.
While it's great to see people taking an interest in "serious" detailing techniques I think it's good to take a step back once in a while and know where this idea came from and what it was all about. What started off as a "trick" some hardcore detailing enthusiasts were experimenting with a few years ago has exploded into a trendy (and dangerously close to being overhyped) combination at the present due to the spread of the internet. You don't truly need a carnauba wax topper over your polymer sealant, but you can if you're feeling a little more ambitious. I guess what I'm trying to say is to not get caught in the trap of putting too much emphasis on protection products, and to pay just as much (or more) attention to detailing techniques, paint prep, and the materials you use. Just a little FYI and IMHO.

Originally Posted by Bman
No, you generally don't have to wait before going from AIO to "whatever".
You can use P21S by itself, just not on a surface unprepped by anything. I mean you can't take it and slap it on a car that is oxidized or hasn't been detailed in a long time, that's all. You're not doing this though, I know.
You can use P21S by itself, just not on a surface unprepped by anything. I mean you can't take it and slap it on a car that is oxidized or hasn't been detailed in a long time, that's all. You're not doing this though, I know.


As Bman said, the process is what's the key to getting the finish to that point. This particular detail took me 8 hrs with a couple of breaks. I did the following:
Washed the car with Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
Clayed the car with Clay Magic
Clayed the rims
Polished with AIO (...and broke 2 seats in the process)
Topped with Pinnacle Souveran
I use a lot of meguiars, and Right now what I;ve been doing regularly is wash the car in Meguiars shampoo, and then I wax the car with Meguairs Liquid Wax. I often think this is too easy, and the paint might not be protected. Let say I have no internet, and computer. If I was to go to lappens or Autozone, what stuff is recommended for me to get.
Originally Posted by maximo-SE
I use a lot of meguiars, and Right now what I;ve been doing regularly is wash the car in Meguiars shampoo, and then I wax the car with Meguairs Liquid Wax. I often think this is too easy, and the paint might not be protected. Let say I have no internet, and computer. If I was to go to lappens or Autozone, what stuff is recommended for me to get.
If your car has light swirling, you might want to consider a mild product like #9 Swirl remover or a polish like Einszett's Metallic Polish. If it's more moderate, you will need something like #83 (Dual Action Cleaner Polish)
The reason I am saying that is your paint might not warrant anything harsh and you don't want to add more problems.
Originally Posted by PrinzII
Not so fast. First, you need to assess your paint's condition. Do you have a lot of swirling? Oxidation? Scratches? Embedded contamination? Once you assess the finish, then you buy the products accordingly.
If your car has light swirling, you might want to consider a mild product like #9 Swirl remover or a polish like Einszett's Metallic Polish. If it's more moderate, you will need something like #83 (Dual Action Cleaner Polish)
The reason I am saying that is your paint might not warrant anything harsh and you don't want to add more problems.
If your car has light swirling, you might want to consider a mild product like #9 Swirl remover or a polish like Einszett's Metallic Polish. If it's more moderate, you will need something like #83 (Dual Action Cleaner Polish)
The reason I am saying that is your paint might not warrant anything harsh and you don't want to add more problems.
Where does AIO fall into all of this? Is it a cleaner, polish or swirl remover....
I've been interested in trying that product, and if it is better than Mequiar's Cleaner/Polish, Scratch-X and 3M Swirl Remover for Dark Cars I would rather give that a try than buying a bunch of other products.




