hey i was just wondering i need to get the rear bumper of my 2k2 re-painted sterling silver and was wondering if anyone else has got it done.just looking for an average price..def. dont want to get screw by a paint shop

 

my guess would be $200-$300.maybe even more.

 

ya thats what im hoping it will be

 

Depends on the quality of the paint job as well as the number of layers (2 layers for regular paint colors and 3 layers for pearl colored paints). $500 tops.

 

its just the factory sterling silver apint..no pearl or anything

 

man that is a crazy amount to pay for just one bumper.. 300 sounds about right though. its a shame you don't live by me i would do it for 100. paint is cheap my friend for 2-300 buck you could paint an entire car yourself.

 

A pint of PPG silver will be $70. Clear will be $35. Tape/masking paper: $5.

For it to look right, the bumper will need to be removed, painted, then reinstalled.

Expect quotes of $400 - $600 from a quality shop.

 

wow 400 to 600..def didnt expect that but ya you always get what you pay for..i just dont want it flacking off again lol

 

If you want to have a durable job, that's not going to be cheap. Just to give you an idea check the links to see what products are require to make a very nice jobs.

You need to apply a special primer for the bumper: 12$ US a can
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0535.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0534.jpg

PPG Base coat: 350$ US per gallon ( with 1 gallon you will paint the entire car )
Also with one gallon of paint you will make 2 gallon since the paint have to be mix with the reducer on a scale of 1 to 1.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0532.jpg

Reducer: 50$ US a gallon
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0533.jpg

Hardener DCX 61 95$ per quart - under coat hardener DCX3030 80$ per quart
( UCH only for for metal surface )
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0530.jpg

Primer for metal surfacePS 3051 & DPS 3055 are about 60$ per quart.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0529.jpg

PPG clear coat: I paid 400$ CDN for a gallon.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0528.jpg

I only use HVLP gun to apply the primer, paint and clear that give better result it also make much less fume than a standar spray gun.


I hope this will help you understand what is involve in painting a car. Beside that you need filter, masking tape, masking paper etc.

 

wow i didnt think a gallon of paint or clear would be that much money

 

Correct DIY will run about $1200, and that's assuming you at the least have a proper place to paint it.

 

with rattle can... in 1973.

 

I prefer to use higher quality product for my own car since I want to keep it all my life. You can buy cheaper product like a gallon of clear for 50$ but it will start to fade as early as in 2 years.

 

Base gun: $400
Clear gun: $400
Booth rental: $250 a day

Full repaints are not a DIY project. It takes 100s of cars to do one correctly. What are the odds you could do it on your 1st shot?

 

all your life lol..ya im def. not goin to take the cheep way out on my car..i just need some idea when i go to a shop and get a quote

 

Check the pics on the bottom of this page, and you'll understand when i say I want to keep this car forever.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...roject-14.html

 

Got my trunk lid's holes filled and painted 3-stage pearl for $340.

 

ya man ..cars very clean..got some time and money in it to...id love to keep my maxima for life but i know its not gunna happen..cool man keep her clean

 

thanks. was mainly letting you know that you can get quality work done for not that expensive. Just find a reasonable shop with a good name. Get some estimates.

 

ya im gunna have to go top at different shops and get them to look at it in person

 

ha ha well i painted my pearl white s14 myself for 300 bucks so i would say its possible.. although i know what i am doing and have been painting for over 3 years now.

 

looks good..but see i dont have a gun, a booth anything like that and id be painting in my opinion a much harder color that white with pearl in it..im not paintin the hole damn thing so id need to blend and all that fun crap lol...but i must say the pic looks sharp of your car

 

i'm not buyin it... even if you did no prep and had every tool you needed i don't even think you can get a car's worth of 3 stage for $300. on top of that... da paper, scotchbrite, filler, file paper, putty, tape, masking paper, sealer, adhesion promoter, and primer and you've broke $300 easily before you've squirted a hint of color.

 

what paint did you use?

 

same stuff that i use...good stuff.
that DCU 2002 is a really good clear.

 

lol dude this link is blowing me away..i honestly never took into considration how much sh*t you need and how much it really is

 

Absolutely, this clear give a very very nice finish, I put about 6 coats + on parts and will probably do 6-8 on the car, then you buff it to remove the imperfections and end up with an incredible finish but also very resistant.

 

In order to get a good job done on the bumper you or the shop should include a good flex additive. There are numerous thoughts on whether you need the flexibility but most flex additives include a bond agent that makes a much better job for urethane bumpers.

 

i had a new bumper, grill and hood painted and re-hung on the car after my accident last year and i paid 2,100.00 for everything and that was cheap.i was getting quotes of up to 3,800.00 from some shops and it took him 2 weeks to do. he said the paint took the longest cause of the prep, and the parts were new!!!

 

6 coats?!?! WHY?
unless you're a wreck of a painter that you need to buff that much the clear shouldn't be 6 coats.

one light coat..then one wet coat. that's it....one more wet if you're THAT OCD about it. if your paint skills are up to par you shouldn't really have to buff all that much. the DCU is a hard clear too.

 

ummm no.
flex is not a bond agent...it's mixed into the clear.

if the bumper is on the car then no flex is needed. there is some "flex" built into the paint so you really don't need to add flex.

i usually use an adhesion promoter/primer before i shoot the base coat which acts like a base flex primer. if the panel is off the car and it's going to be a PITA to put it back on then i'll shoot the clear w/ the flex added.

also keep in mind flex that's added to the clear is only in the paint for a short period of time. after a few years if you tap the bumper the paint will still spider/crack.

 

the flex stuff looses its (flex) if you will or its purpose over short time i know that cause i ad a few this painted before with it ..i think its a joke..but no my car got dropped off at a buddies shop today rear bumper and front repainted and some taillight work done for 400 even

 

Squirrel82 does the bumpers for $100 a piece. He works in Beltsville MD, True 2 Form.

 

ya already had them done..cam out mint 400 bucks front and rear redone

 

I do $200 per panel for new parts or used parts in good condition with scuff and repaint. That is with less expensive (middle of the road if you will) clear.
I put a few coats of base coat (depending on the base paint/ primer color and new base coat being applied)
then two thick coats of clear. (thats enough for a light cut and buff if it needs it)

$250 per panel with better clear and 3 thick layers of clear and cut and buff.

As mentioned above, anywhere in the range of $200-300 is a good price depending on your needs.

I have seen the work done for $50, but you can imagine the quality.

You get what you pay for.

 

do you work at a shop or doing this on the side as a hobby?

 

When I compare some of the parts that I only put 2 coats of clear and the other one which got 3-4 + there is a big difference in the finish, the idea is to put many thin layers which will act as an additional protection for the paint. I prefer to put many thin coats than only 1 or 2 thick coats, if you want to avoid the fish eye or orange skin look that's the way to go but to each is own.

 

fish eye is just bad prep.
orange peel is improper spray technique or incorrect reducer used.

one light/tack coat and then throw on a wet coat and the clear should be nice and level. it's a heavier coat but it's not to the point that it'll run.

if there's left over clear i'll shoot one more wet coat of clear but IMO anymore than that is over kill.

i've never done the 6 light coats....but like you said to each is own. if that works for you then go with it.

BTW the one light, and two wet works well preventing chips and etc. only chip that i see on the car is from someone actually hitting it..and the clear still stuck on the bumper.

 

You are probably referring to painting the car, which is very different than painting parts, since it's a flat surface and much easier to paint, most pro shop I know would put 3 coats. I have been painting all the parts in the engine bay like all the suspension parts & sub frame connector, I put like 5-6 coats on the LCA & SFC and believe me they turned out very very nice, for all the brackets I put about 3-4 coats. Dont get me wrong I'm a freak when it come to painting stuff, it would be a different story if I would do this for living as cost would be an issue, in my case it is not so I can do a little over kill.

 

i love when people go overboard on clear.unless its a car your not gonna drive to many coats of clear is actually a bad thing it actually becomes more brittle and actually chips easier. 2 coats is more than enough unless your gonna wetsand then a third wet coat is good but by the time your done you end up with about two. especially with susp parts they are definitly gonna chip.