About to wax the 2010 Max, whats your wax?
I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant followed by Wolfgang Fuzion on my silver 07...Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant followed by Pinnacle Souveran on my wife's majestik blue 07 Altima.
NXT is a sealant not a wax. If you want another sealant get Blackfire Wet Diamond, lightyears beyond NXT is terms of depth, removal and longevity. If you want an actual wax get Poorboy Natty's Blue or Red. Red for lighter colours or Blue for darker colours.
Which ever wax you choose. Don't forget to use a clay bar. New cars often have micro-contaminates on the paint such as rail dust from shipping.
Put your hand in a sandwich bag and touch the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, you'll need to clay first. Odds are, it'll be rough just as DALastDON said.
I use Optimum Opti-Seal as a base coat (after clay) and Pinnacle Souverian on top. Great look on both of my light colored cars.
I'm a big fan of the Gold class by meguiars and then a month later using the NXT. Although i've had repeated good shines from Maguiar's Yellow #23 or something like that, it's in a grey bottle. Smells pretty good too haha.
NXT won't last as long as gold class, but will give more shine initially IMO
NXT won't last as long as gold class, but will give more shine initially IMO
Klasse AIO + Autoglym Sealant + Souveran (Used on a Black 5.5)
Klasse AIO + Klasse SG + Souveran (Used on my former 3rd Gen)
Klasse AIO + Klasse SG + P21S (Currently being used on the Edge)
Klasse AIO + Souveran (Used on my former 5.5)
I like using Klasse AIO as a base for different waxes. Although AIO is a polish, it's a light polish that sets up the paint for sealants or waxes.
Klasse AIO + Klasse SG + Souveran (Used on my former 3rd Gen)
Klasse AIO + Klasse SG + P21S (Currently being used on the Edge)
Klasse AIO + Souveran (Used on my former 5.5)
I like using Klasse AIO as a base for different waxes. Although AIO is a polish, it's a light polish that sets up the paint for sealants or waxes.
Meguiars Gold liquid wax. Smells amazing too.
Make sure when it's nice enough and one has the time to use about 3 coats of wax. I use a 3 step wax program with all meguiars stuff cause turtle wax leaves flakes and never satisfies me.
Make sure when it's nice enough and one has the time to use about 3 coats of wax. I use a 3 step wax program with all meguiars stuff cause turtle wax leaves flakes and never satisfies me.
I'm a big fan of the Gold class by meguiars and then a month later using the NXT. Although i've had repeated good shines from Maguiar's Yellow #23 or something like that, it's in a grey bottle. Smells pretty good too haha.
NXT won't last as long as gold class, but will give more shine initially IMO
NXT won't last as long as gold class, but will give more shine initially IMO
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is a polymer wax, it should be the FIRST wax you put on an unwaxed or freshly clayed/polished car (some actually call it a sealant because of the polymer bonds). It actually lasts much LONGER than gold class wax, more as a protectant than a shine though. It may look and even feel like the wax isn't there, but spray some water on her and watch it bead up.
Gold Class wax (a carnuba wax) should follow the NXT wax. It will give it more of a shine, a deeper shine, but won't last quite as long as a protectant. NXT should be applied probably twice a year, and Gold class should be applied monthly.
I'm afraid you have it a bit backwords, my friend.
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is a polymer wax, it should be the FIRST wax you put on an unwaxed or freshly clayed/polished car (some actually call it a sealant because of the polymer bonds). It actually lasts much LONGER than gold class wax, more as a protectant than a shine though. It may look and even feel like the wax isn't there, but spray some water on her and watch it bead up.
Gold Class wax (a carnuba wax) should follow the NXT wax. It will give it more of a shine, a deeper shine, but won't last quite as long as a protectant. NXT should be applied probably twice a year, and Gold class should be applied monthly.
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is a polymer wax, it should be the FIRST wax you put on an unwaxed or freshly clayed/polished car (some actually call it a sealant because of the polymer bonds). It actually lasts much LONGER than gold class wax, more as a protectant than a shine though. It may look and even feel like the wax isn't there, but spray some water on her and watch it bead up.
Gold Class wax (a carnuba wax) should follow the NXT wax. It will give it more of a shine, a deeper shine, but won't last quite as long as a protectant. NXT should be applied probably twice a year, and Gold class should be applied monthly.
I just got mine tonight and see that the dealer's "clean up" with what I would suspect was STEEL WOOL will need some intensive care. I'm hoping I can get some of the scratches out of my NEW car that only had 21 miles on it when I first test drove it yesterday! 


I just purchased the crimson black car and of course it's a beautiful color. I was able to diminish (read not totally remove) *some* of the swirl marks left by the cleanup guy just using Maguires Scratch X by hand with a microfibre cloth. I will most likely be using my PC and white foam pad with something. I have Pinnacle Series II Carnuba paste wax, paintwork cleansing lotion (chemical cleaner, not abrasive) and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant 3.0.
I'm guessing I'll order something more aggressive than any of the above. Any suggestions? I don't want the dealer to do it b/c it may come back bare metal if they have to actually polish on it. I would rather just deal with it myself.



I just purchased the crimson black car and of course it's a beautiful color. I was able to diminish (read not totally remove) *some* of the swirl marks left by the cleanup guy just using Maguires Scratch X by hand with a microfibre cloth. I will most likely be using my PC and white foam pad with something. I have Pinnacle Series II Carnuba paste wax, paintwork cleansing lotion (chemical cleaner, not abrasive) and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant 3.0.
I'm guessing I'll order something more aggressive than any of the above. Any suggestions? I don't want the dealer to do it b/c it may come back bare metal if they have to actually polish on it. I would rather just deal with it myself.
Meguiar's all though I have a friend that says you should never wax your car because it already has a clear coat and all you do is take a little clear coat off everytime you wax and his car shines all the time and its 4 years old already.
I guarantee it would shine better if he kept it waxed and polished.
Aaaaactually, NXT is considered to be a sealant. It would not be advantageous to get the two confused if you are looking for longetivity over looks. But you are correct in that it should go Wax then Sealant. I personally just do one or the other being that I have yet to see any results in person to provide an incentive for the extra work.
I refered to it as a wax because that's how it's advertised... but I did refer to the fact that it actually acts as a sealant.
And I'm not sure if you read what I wrote wrong, or if you wrote what you read wrong... I did not say that it should go wax then sealant, and it shouldn't. The paint should be sealed, then waxed.
If you or anyone else wants to contest this fact, I would refer you to the descriptions of NXT generation Tech Wax 2.0... the part where it clearly states that it contains light abrasives to remove fine scratches. Applying this over a fresh layer of Carnuba wax would effectively REMOVE the wax. Hence, why it should go first.
Wax (Carnuba wax) does not contain any abrasive materials, and will NOT harm the clear coat in any way shape or form.
On the other hand, Polish, compound, and sealants don't harm the clearcoat either. They just smooth out damaged areas to make it look smoother
Years ago, a local wholesale distributor for body shop supplies clued me into Car Brite's Crystal Shine II as a once-a-year cleaner and glaze. (You won't find that at Advanced Auto.) After which, Collinite double-coat paste wax can be applied with minimal elbow grease. Love that Collinite! Together, it's not as hard-core as a clay-bar strip and wax, but it's a lot easier, and pretty darn close to the same quality work.






