District

So, I just got my Maxima about a month ago and I want to clean it up, and make it look like a Maxima should. I am very new to car ownership and taking care of a car, but I have been lurking the forum for a while. I want to detail the car....but my budget is limited so I am only doing some of the steps.

1. Wash
-Spray car with water
-Start washing part by part
~Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
-Dry immediately after finishing a part, move on

2. Clay
-Using mit+wash strength as lubrication, Clay the whole vehicle.
~ADVICE ON WHAT CLAY TO USE?
-Remove clay with microfiber towel

3. Glazy/Polish
-Using a microfiber cloth, apply a little polish and massage into car
~Meguiars Ultimate Polish? ADVICE

4. Wax
-What to buy to apply wax? What wax to buy?
-Remove Wax with microfiber

5. After a couple of mins, run over car with a microfiber towel.

Questions:
What product can I use for wheel dressing?
Where can I purchase microfiber clothes cheap?
What to apply wax and polish with? Microfiber cloths?





Is this a good plan? Please advice on products to use.

District

17 views and no advice? GUAYSSSS

AlanR

I would like more information about the car before assuming what the best process would be for you to follow (year, color, quality of paint, etc...), but I will give general suggestions which may help.


Personally I think you're putting too much thought and effort into this step.
I don't care much about which brand of car wash I use if I will be waxing it afterwards. I have some Mothers in my detail bucket currently - its fine.
Wet the whole car, use a good wash mitt and wash the whole thing at once.
Don't waste time drying section after section, just spray the car with more water as you move on to prevent the soap from drying.
I use a squeegee to remove most of the water before using a towel to dry (keeps the towel only moist and actually dries the car instead of just moving the water)
Honestly, I just remove a windshield wiper and use it as the squeegee - do NOT do this if you have metal wiper holders.

This is where knowing more about the car would help.
Does it really need clay? Does it feel coarse? Is there overspray?
Is there sap on the car? Use rubbing alcohol instead. (you must wax afterwards if you use alcohol)
In the detail shops Ive worked in I used Meguiars clay.
I used spray wax as the lubrication.
But I've never had to use clay that often.

Im not going to be much help here.
Ive never waxed a car by hand, I think I would go crazy if I had to.
I always use an orbital. (the 16lb one here: http://www.gem-industries.com/orbital.php)
I bought one for myself when I stopped working as a detailer so I could have one to use at home.
It doesn't sound like that would be an option for you so just pick up a good applicator and use a fair amount of elbow grease.
Don't let it bake in the sun.

If Im doing just a quick wax I throw on Meguiars gold class, but any good carnauba based wax will work fine.
Usually though I just apply only a sealant. (I don't get much benefit from carnauba on a white car)
I use Klasse sealant along with a terrycloth bonnet on my orbital.
Then I wrap a clean soft towel around the orbital to remove.

Personal preference here.
Some dressings shine like crazy but only last a couple days, some have a decent shine and last longer.
I prefer Meguiars endurance gel and use an applicator to apply to avoid drips and get less splash on the paint when driving.

Regardless of what you choose you should dress the tires before waxing.
It gives it time to dry and also if you're using a spray the waxing will remove any overspray that got on the paint.

This is just my opinion, Im sure others will have their own thoughts.
I was a detailer for many years and had access to spin buffers, orbitals, different grades of compounds and other assorted industry tools so some of my suggestions are based on that and may not always be an option.

Being able to look at the car and see what condition the paint is in - if its oxidized, pitted, swirled, etc... would give me a better idea of the best steps to take.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

there's a detailing sticky...

niknyc

nice

PalmsMax

cheap microfiber clothes? Sam's club. They come in bulk for cheap.
what to apply wax with? A microfiber pad applicator. Use and toss. Walmart has these.

PrinzII

iTrader: (2)

One thing about microfibers is that you have to be cognizant of the amount of lint they will produce. Some people I know wash them before using them to mitigate the issue.

PrinzII

iTrader: (2)

Oh, Clay Magic blue is a good choice for what you are trying to do.

Makc1kNYC

1. Rinse Your Car with water.
2. Wash your car.
3. Clay Bar with Detailer.
4. Polish your car.
5. Wax your car.
*
DONE

Steps 4 & 5 do it with every 2-3 sq feet.

Before Proceeding to 2nd step wash your wheels your exhaust tips and wheel covers inside.

*NOTE: If your exhaust tips are dirty I suggest you to get a 0000(4x) Steel Wool and gently clean the effected area with car wash soap.

NOTE: Wheels need to be wiped first before rinsing them with water.

To wash your car you need bucket, Microfiber Towels, Scratchless Brush, and Sheepwool sponge.

The best product to use is Meguiar's or Mother's.*
Soap, Wax, Detailer, Tire Shine and Polish

Let me give you an expert who knows his sh*t!

http://forums.gtrforums.com/showthread.php?t=1807. Hope this helps, oh btw you can buy any of the products at AutoZone.

T_Behr904

If you're asking these many questions about detailing, I would ask around and find a good reputable detailer to do it. Yeah, you could spend a hundred dollars or so on getting it washed, clay bar'd, buffed/polished and waxed, but you will only have to get that done twice a year. Preferably in the fall before the cold weather hits, and then again in the spring when it starts to warm up.

Not trying to discourage you, but improper detailing can damage your paint if it's not done correctly. I've seen it happen many, many times over the years.

PrinzII

iTrader: (2)

T_Behr: However, taking it to a shop is no guarantee that it will be detailed properly, either. While I have seen some shops do good work, I have seen the same number screw things up to the point that a car would have to be re-cleared or repainted because they were too aggressive with either the polish, pad, or both.

In this case, he could comfortably do this without introducing swirls/damage to his paint because he's not polishing with a rotary and using the wrong pads.