VQ35 Swap+ New Mods= 241WHP 237WTQ
09-15-2007, 10:03 AM
#1
VQ35 Swap+ New Mods= 241WHP 237WTQ
Last Dyno (same location and same corrections) --> http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...yno4-7-07a.jpg
Great news NMexMax... I have the runfiles!!!!! LOL
New Mods since the last dyno...
- Jimes "T-stat staying open" Mod- while cruising on a hot day with AC on, engine stays at about 165*F, instead of the previous (stock) 192-195*F. Motor never feels heat-soaked anymore, always super responsive.
- 3" MAF- (didnt really add power, but it did help to HOLD my power longer towards redline. Notice the previous dyno had ~210whp at redline, now Im holding 220whp)
Great news NMexMax... I have the runfiles!!!!! LOL
New Mods since the last dyno...
- Jimes "T-stat staying open" Mod- while cruising on a hot day with AC on, engine stays at about 165*F, instead of the previous (stock) 192-195*F. Motor never feels heat-soaked anymore, always super responsive.
- 3" MAF- (didnt really add power, but it did help to HOLD my power longer towards redline. Notice the previous dyno had ~210whp at redline, now Im holding 220whp)
09-15-2007, 03:15 PM
#2
very nice. Man this motor has a lot of potential on the top end!
going to PM you about that T-stat staying open mod.... very interested in that.
What happened at 5K? you got kind of rich there? Is that wideband's reading? or a tail sniffer?
I forgot are you tuning with a VAF2?
going to PM you about that T-stat staying open mod.... very interested in that.
What happened at 5K? you got kind of rich there? Is that wideband's reading? or a tail sniffer?
I forgot are you tuning with a VAF2?
What can be done 
09-15-2007, 09:10 PM
#4
very nice. Man this motor has a lot of potential on the top end!
going to PM you about that T-stat staying open mod.... very interested in that.
What happened at 5K? you got kind of rich there? Is that wideband's reading? or a tail sniffer?
I forgot are you tuning with a VAF2?
going to PM you about that T-stat staying open mod.... very interested in that.
What happened at 5K? you got kind of rich there? Is that wideband's reading? or a tail sniffer?
I forgot are you tuning with a VAF2?
No need for PM, Jime himself had it on a post, I just cant find it. Check it. Remove your water outlet. Notice the plunger from the T-stat goes into a hole at the side of the water outlet neck (you have to have it in your hand to know what Im talkin about). Now seperate the Tstat from the housing (careful it doesnt fly off and catch your eye). Now's when it gets cool, get a drill bit or something, cut it to a length of about ~1/8". smouth out the cut so its nice and flat. Now, insert THAT into the hole on the water oulet, re-isntall the T-stat making sure that the plunger's rod sits level pushing against that part you just added. Once the Tstat is on tight, make sure the plunger isnt at an angle and has no play. If its good, put it back on, enjoy ~20-30*F cooler running motor :-D. Add some water wetter while you're at it. Cheap insurance.
09-15-2007, 09:33 PM
#5
well lack of VCT is one thing, crappy 24* ign timin at redline is another, and probably the stock headers on wsp ypipe are starting to show their limits. probably just a combination of everything
Now go get them pesky 13's!! 
09-17-2007, 05:59 AM
#13
Psssst. Headers have been shipped. Details on that will come in a week or two when I actually install them :-D. They are Altima 3.5 headers. So the ypipe wont fit, but the headers themselves should. Im hoping that I could salvage the loop for the rear manifold so I could keep them equal length. As far as the headers themselves, they seem to be a exact knock off from the new OBX headers for us. Plus they were only 1/2 the price of what the OBX headers go for, so cant complain at all 
09-17-2007, 10:11 AM
#16
No, he isnt Auto.. also here is the video of the dyno run
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/downloads....ownload_id=207
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/downloads....ownload_id=207
09-17-2007, 01:22 PM
#17
Dandymax, Im 5spd. And yes those are total ignition #s taken through an OBD2 scanner while logging different scenarios (as explained on one of the tables there).
gtr_rider, thanks for posting the video on vqpowah!!!!!!
gtr_rider, thanks for posting the video on vqpowah!!!!!!
09-17-2007, 03:38 PM
#18
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Psssst. Headers have been shipped. Details on that will come in a week or two when I actually install them :-D. They are Altima 3.5 headers. So the ypipe wont fit, but the headers themselves should. Im hoping that I could salvage the loop for the rear manifold so I could keep them equal length. As far as the headers themselves, they seem to be a exact knock off from the new OBX headers for us. Plus they were only 1/2 the price of what the OBX headers go for, so cant complain at all
Please don't do ANY other mods or corrections post vq30 mani removal. pretty pretty pretty please................
09-17-2007, 03:47 PM
#19
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Oh, to add one quick thing, as an alternative to the modified t-stat........
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 09-17-2007 at 03:50 PM.
09-17-2007, 04:55 PM
#20
09-17-2007, 05:14 PM
#22
Oh, to add one quick thing, as an alternative to the modified t-stat........
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
09-17-2007, 05:16 PM
#23
aaah ok, now it makes sense, lol. Well Nismology already knows what the plans are for this car, and trust us.... Im going to NEED those headers to reach my goal :-D. Thats all Im saying tho. One thing getting tackled at a time
09-17-2007, 06:01 PM
#24
09-17-2007, 06:51 PM
#26
Psssst. Headers have been shipped. Details on that will come in a week or two when I actually install them :-D. They are Altima 3.5 headers. So the ypipe wont fit, but the headers themselves should. Im hoping that I could salvage the loop for the rear manifold so I could keep them equal length. As far as the headers themselves, they seem to be a exact knock off from the new OBX headers for us. Plus they were only 1/2 the price of what the OBX headers go for, so cant complain at all
09-17-2007, 07:43 PM
#28
could you elaborate on the t-stat mod? is it just for the 3.5 or something? is it similar to that thermal phenolic spacer?
09-17-2007, 09:13 PM
#29
Either way bringing down the temps of the motor makes a nice butt dyno difference
09-18-2007, 09:10 AM
#30
09-18-2007, 11:26 PM
#31
Oh, to add one quick thing, as an alternative to the modified t-stat........
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
A 350z t-stat from nissan is DIRT cheap, they also make a nismo one for the 350Z that is even cooler, either can be used on the vq35 fwd by simply using a 4th gen lower rad hose (on 4.5 & 5.5 gens), either of these t-stats will drop your temps quite a bit from the fwd t-stat but still have the benefit of allowing your engine to reach operating temp faster and reduce internal wear as oposed to modifying the t-stat to stay open.
Will that t-stat work on the 4th gen?
09-19-2007, 07:25 AM
#32
Jime's mod is actually designed for the 4th gen.
But yes, you can use the VQ35 t-stat just fine as well.
Also, I wouldn’t say the Z33 t-stat is THAT much better than the A32/33. It’s only about 6-10*F different. The Z33 has an Aluminum radiator, so that’s what takes care of its cooling issues a little better. Also, is there anyone here who has actually used the Nismo unit? Or is it too cold (156*F IIRC) meaning, the car will take a very long time to reach operating temperature, and we all know what that would mean. My understanding is that is primarily used for boosted applications.
IBnismologysayschangetheradiatortoAlbeforescrewing withthetstat
But yes, you can use the VQ35 t-stat just fine as well.
Also, I wouldn’t say the Z33 t-stat is THAT much better than the A32/33. It’s only about 6-10*F different. The Z33 has an Aluminum radiator, so that’s what takes care of its cooling issues a little better. Also, is there anyone here who has actually used the Nismo unit? Or is it too cold (156*F IIRC) meaning, the car will take a very long time to reach operating temperature, and we all know what that would mean. My understanding is that is primarily used for boosted applications.
IBnismologysayschangetheradiatortoAlbeforescrewing withthetstat
09-27-2007, 10:36 PM
#33
These headers --> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW
Plus me with my Dr. Kaos (my alter ego) Destruction Kit...
and you get...
Me about to pop my OWN head gasket breaking the damn nuts loose
FRONTS-
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...ntCompare1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...ntCompare2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...tInstalled.jpg
(For the install pic, the AC compressor was still dangling, so dont use that or the AC lines as reference for locations)
REARS-
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...earCompare.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...arCompare2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...rInstalled.jpg
Install was straight forward.
* For the rear manifold, because of the long curve on the runners, one of them ran into the lowest heatshield. I removed it and there's plenty of space bet'n the p/s lines and the headers.
* The lower flange of the rear header cannot be used. It doesnt hit the x-member, but its aimed in a way that it would be impossible to use. Must cut it at the base of the collector and weld the flange directly to the base of the collector (chop that 1.5" long single pipe to raise the flange).
* Front headers fit like a glove
I drove open-headers from home to the muffler shop... that was "fun" hahaha. Picked up Nismology on the way. We got there 820ish, left there 1115ish. The wait was well worth it. They did a VERY professional job with the ypipe. I wish I had pictures because it really is a show-quality piece. Mandrel bent two 2" sections merged into 2.5" Mandrel with a flex.
*Insert Imagination here*
For the front header they just put the flange on and ran the pipe straight back to the Y. For the rear, once they raised the flange on the header, they had enough space to bring the pipe forward as it dropped into a U and back into the Y. They are almost exactly equal length. Nismology and myself drooled over it.
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!!!!! My car sounds just like a Z33 at low and mid range RPM (probably does at high rpm as well, but my intake is too loud for me to distinguish), its amazing. Same resonating low-toned humming of the Z33s. Now for the fun part...
Power is DEFINITELY there. According to our butt-dyno**, the drop in power at redline seems to be gone. Keeps pulling very hard to redline, increasingly. Also, my "weak" power section in the 3000-4000 region doesnt feel as weak anymore. Additionally, partial throttle acceleration is MUCH improved. I dont have to downshift of floor it. 5th gear at 70mph just ease into that gas pedal to 35% throttle and I get pinned (obviously not like actual WOT, but relative to the way it used to feel, I get pinned to the seat)!!!! .... Speaking of, WOT... its insane, lol. No other way to say, it. Powerband feels MUCH more linear in its power delivery.
MATH-
- 3.5 Altima Headers shipped with Insurance= $187.99
- Welding the o2 bungs shut on the headers= $10.00
- Cutting the flange of rear header and bringing it to the base of the collector= $20.00
- Custom, Mandrel Bent, Equal Length Y-pipe, two o2 bungs welded, new Flex Section= $250+tax= $267.50
Plus me with my Dr. Kaos (my alter ego) Destruction Kit...
and you get...
Me about to pop my OWN head gasket breaking the damn nuts loose
FRONTS-
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...ntCompare1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...ntCompare2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...tInstalled.jpg
(For the install pic, the AC compressor was still dangling, so dont use that or the AC lines as reference for locations)
REARS-
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...earCompare.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...arCompare2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...rInstalled.jpg
Install was straight forward.
* For the rear manifold, because of the long curve on the runners, one of them ran into the lowest heatshield. I removed it and there's plenty of space bet'n the p/s lines and the headers.
* The lower flange of the rear header cannot be used. It doesnt hit the x-member, but its aimed in a way that it would be impossible to use. Must cut it at the base of the collector and weld the flange directly to the base of the collector (chop that 1.5" long single pipe to raise the flange).
* Front headers fit like a glove
I drove open-headers from home to the muffler shop... that was "fun" hahaha. Picked up Nismology on the way. We got there 820ish, left there 1115ish. The wait was well worth it. They did a VERY professional job with the ypipe. I wish I had pictures because it really is a show-quality piece. Mandrel bent two 2" sections merged into 2.5" Mandrel with a flex.
*Insert Imagination here*
For the front header they just put the flange on and ran the pipe straight back to the Y. For the rear, once they raised the flange on the header, they had enough space to bring the pipe forward as it dropped into a U and back into the Y. They are almost exactly equal length. Nismology and myself drooled over it.
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!!!!! My car sounds just like a Z33 at low and mid range RPM (probably does at high rpm as well, but my intake is too loud for me to distinguish), its amazing. Same resonating low-toned humming of the Z33s. Now for the fun part...
Power is DEFINITELY there. According to our butt-dyno**, the drop in power at redline seems to be gone. Keeps pulling very hard to redline, increasingly. Also, my "weak" power section in the 3000-4000 region doesnt feel as weak anymore. Additionally, partial throttle acceleration is MUCH improved. I dont have to downshift of floor it. 5th gear at 70mph just ease into that gas pedal to 35% throttle and I get pinned (obviously not like actual WOT, but relative to the way it used to feel, I get pinned to the seat)!!!! .... Speaking of, WOT... its insane, lol. No other way to say, it. Powerband feels MUCH more linear in its power delivery.
MATH-
- 3.5 Altima Headers shipped with Insurance= $187.99
- Welding the o2 bungs shut on the headers= $10.00
- Cutting the flange of rear header and bringing it to the base of the collector= $20.00
- Custom, Mandrel Bent, Equal Length Y-pipe, two o2 bungs welded, new Flex Section= $250+tax= $267.50
Need pics of stated why pipe.
09-28-2007, 09:16 AM
#39
Y-pipe pix coming up sometime this weekend, my old man went on a trip and he's got the digicam.
Two more things to add that may have been contributing to my drop in power at high rpms
#1- I had both 3.5 and 3.0 header gaskets stacked on the stock headers. I noticed that while installing these, eventho the gaskets were on the studs properly, I could move them around quite alot still. I started to notice that I had to hold them until the nuts were tight because they would move around. I wonder if previously I had tightened them in a way that left one of the gaskets intruding into the path of air, thus screwing up airflow. So what I did I just left one set of MLS gasket and made sure that they were flush with the runners until the flange could hold it in place.
#2- My WSP ypipe was old, ~4yrs old. The last time I looked at the flex was in December when I replaced my head gaskets, and it was starting to bulge. Nothing major tho. Yesterday at the muffler shop I take a look at it and O-M-G. Towards the passenger side there's a lip sticking out about .75" from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock, and on the driver side that slight bowing that was there preivously got massive, hahah. It wouldnt surprise me at all if I that section was only flowing about ~45% of its actual inner diameter's worth. But oh well, new flex now so that problem is gone.
Two more things to add that may have been contributing to my drop in power at high rpms
#1- I had both 3.5 and 3.0 header gaskets stacked on the stock headers. I noticed that while installing these, eventho the gaskets were on the studs properly, I could move them around quite alot still. I started to notice that I had to hold them until the nuts were tight because they would move around. I wonder if previously I had tightened them in a way that left one of the gaskets intruding into the path of air, thus screwing up airflow. So what I did I just left one set of MLS gasket and made sure that they were flush with the runners until the flange could hold it in place.
#2- My WSP ypipe was old, ~4yrs old. The last time I looked at the flex was in December when I replaced my head gaskets, and it was starting to bulge. Nothing major tho. Yesterday at the muffler shop I take a look at it and O-M-G. Towards the passenger side there's a lip sticking out about .75" from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock, and on the driver side that slight bowing that was there preivously got massive, hahah. It wouldnt surprise me at all if I that section was only flowing about ~45% of its actual inner diameter's worth. But oh well, new flex now so that problem is gone.
09-28-2007, 03:51 PM
#40
Hmm since you have access to OBDII stuff, maybe you can log some parameters and see if anything changed. Most namely, MAF parameters.
If anything, you can do a rough observation using the SAFCI.
If anything, you can do a rough observation using the SAFCI.