View Poll Results: Which Setup to Dyno With?
As is right now, dyno with/without Cattman 3"
2
5.41%
Fix the exhaust leaks, dyno with/without Cattman 3"
16
43.24%
OBX 3.5 Headers, dyno with/without Cattman 3"
19
51.35%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll
Dynoing the Cattman 3" on the 4th Gen
#82
This is true, obviously the gains are there. Is this the same dyno you did your previous one on?
Some dynos are known to read higher then others, just as you stated about that stock 3.5 dynoing a bit higher then most normally do.
Im still just a bit leary about the 3" catback based on what Ive seen them gain on boosted setups. I dont see how it would be possible for it to free up more power on an NA setup when its not pushing as many CFMs as a boosted setup.
Some dynos are known to read higher then others, just as you stated about that stock 3.5 dynoing a bit higher then most normally do.
Im still just a bit leary about the 3" catback based on what Ive seen them gain on boosted setups. I dont see how it would be possible for it to free up more power on an NA setup when its not pushing as many CFMs as a boosted setup.
@ Chris, I dont think you guys are ready for it yet.... And 00VI is something not even on my list of to-do right now, I'm interested in doing something different, once I've ran out of ideas/options... Then i'll resort to the VI.
Last edited by aackshun; 12-16-2010 at 01:36 PM.
#83
Yes, and yes this is even the exact same dynojet, and I see what you mean there, but I after going through a few dyno sheets, I really don't see anyone touching 200 ft/lbs w/o a tune/ecu even people with a full cattman exhaust (2.5).
@ Chris, I dont think you guys are ready for it yet.... And 00VI is something not even on my list of to-do right now, I'm interested in doing something different, once I've ran out of ideas/options... Then i'll resort to the VI.
@ Chris, I dont think you guys are ready for it yet.... And 00VI is something not even on my list of to-do right now, I'm interested in doing something different, once I've ran out of ideas/options... Then i'll resort to the VI.
Can you post the whole thing?
Im curious to see just where the increased power began versus the old graph?
#84
#86
^ My best run from march (I/Y/Hi-flo cat) (apparently I did 177/190) vs. My best run today.
The A/F dipped to 13.5 but worked it's way back up to 14.8
These vids are in HD btw, gotta love teh flip HD.
^ And no those are NOT the rollers you hear @ the beginning, that's my tranny.
Final List:
Bomz SRI
OBX 3.5 Equal Length Headers
Magnaflow high flow cat (2.5 ID)
Cattman 3" Catback
Unorthodox Racing UDP
Amsoil 10w30XL
Napa 80w Gear Oil
G35 Coupe Rims (7.5")
Hankook Optimo's 225/50/17
190,5xx miles on the original motor.
There, that's it!
I can go back and get runfiles, but where do I download the software to read em again???
Last edited by aackshun; 09-13-2012 at 10:31 PM.
#87
#88
Good! I need one! But she limped to powerfab auto this morning and put down 190whp and 210 wtq. No comparison will be done because I want to drive it as little as possible, but the numbers should speak for themselves.
Remember I am UN-TUNED, and no internal work has been done.
Remember I am UN-TUNED, and no internal work has been done.
#89
Isn't a magnaflow a resonated test pipe or am I tripping? Your car seems quiet for the mods it has. Is your Helmholtz still in place?
I agree with aj, a little AFR conditioning couldn't hurt. Also, if the MF test pipe is really a test pipe, than yes, your AFR is scary. But if it's a dedicated cat converter, then I wouldn't worry too much about the AFR since, in my experience, the main cat can make things read falsely lean.
I agree with aj, a little AFR conditioning couldn't hurt. Also, if the MF test pipe is really a test pipe, than yes, your AFR is scary. But if it's a dedicated cat converter, then I wouldn't worry too much about the AFR since, in my experience, the main cat can make things read falsely lean.
#90
Over the next couple of months I plan on getting spacers, make a 2.75" test pipe, and then tune... After I replace my tranny of course.... By the time I figure out how I'm going to tune, that will determine my 6spd flywheel timing ring's fate.
Nmexmax....
The cat has like multiple thin sheets in it, I've taken it to the sunlight and you can see a little light through it, but not a lot, the previous owner brought the warpspeed y-pipe and cat together, from my research it appeard to be a magnaflow high flow cat... and not just a resonated test pipe.
Helmholtz? you got me on there, I've heard of helmholtz frequencies for intake runner length and the peak efficency of a motor... but wtf it's an actual part??
Last edited by aackshun; 12-16-2010 at 02:26 PM.
#93
nope, besides the obx headers on there, this is how the engine bay looks now...
nmex:
yah, becuase back in the exhaust leak days, i could have SWORN the car was running REALLY rich.
nmex:
yah, becuase back in the exhaust leak days, i could have SWORN the car was running REALLY rich.
Last edited by aackshun; 12-16-2010 at 02:42 PM.
#97
Looking at your intake, I can spot a quick way to pick up little more performance and better gas mileage. One of the cardinal rules when modifying Nissans is to avoid creating turbulance going into the MAF, and most short ram intakes do a lot of that. The turbulance over the hot wire causes a very erratic signal to the ECU, which it was not designed to recognize (no such thing as turbulance in the stock intake system, its completely eliminated before the air gets to the MAF).
To prevent turbulance when an intake/filter is that close to the MAF, the intake has to include a purpose-designed velocity stack (designed for the application, not generic). The only short ram intakes I know of that do that adequately are the JWT POP Charger and the Stillen copy (that is more expensive).
We actually tested on the dyno a bunch of years ago. Compared a K&N filter attached with a short MAF adapter and a JWT POPCharger, recording the electrical signal from the MAF to the ECU at the same time. Electrical signal was much more erratic with the K&N filter. but the dyno confirmed that the effect carried through mechanically. When the smoothing was taken off of the dyno run, the JWT curve went up and down relatively smoothly, but the K&N filter curve looked like a sawblade. I remember that we were really surprised at the difference. It was a long time ago, but I think the average power loss (probably from 3000-6500) was about 3whp.
To prevent turbulance when an intake/filter is that close to the MAF, the intake has to include a purpose-designed velocity stack (designed for the application, not generic). The only short ram intakes I know of that do that adequately are the JWT POP Charger and the Stillen copy (that is more expensive).
We actually tested on the dyno a bunch of years ago. Compared a K&N filter attached with a short MAF adapter and a JWT POPCharger, recording the electrical signal from the MAF to the ECU at the same time. Electrical signal was much more erratic with the K&N filter. but the dyno confirmed that the effect carried through mechanically. When the smoothing was taken off of the dyno run, the JWT curve went up and down relatively smoothly, but the K&N filter curve looked like a sawblade. I remember that we were really surprised at the difference. It was a long time ago, but I think the average power loss (probably from 3000-6500) was about 3whp.
#99
Looking at your intake, I can spot a quick way to pick up little more performance and better gas mileage. One of the cardinal rules when modifying Nissans is to avoid creating turbulance going into the MAF, and most short ram intakes do a lot of that. The turbulance over the hot wire causes a very erratic signal to the ECU, which it was not designed to recognize (no such thing as turbulance in the stock intake system, its completely eliminated before the air gets to the MAF).
To prevent turbulance when an intake/filter is that close to the MAF, the intake has to include a purpose-designed velocity stack (designed for the application, not generic). The only short ram intakes I know of that do that adequately are the JWT POP Charger and the Stillen copy (that is more expensive).
We actually tested on the dyno a bunch of years ago. Compared a K&N filter attached with a short MAF adapter and a JWT POPCharger, recording the electrical signal from the MAF to the ECU at the same time. Electrical signal was much more erratic with the K&N filter. but the dyno confirmed that the effect carried through mechanically. When the smoothing was taken off of the dyno run, the JWT curve went up and down relatively smoothly, but the K&N filter curve looked like a sawblade. I remember that we were really surprised at the difference. It was a long time ago, but I think the average power loss (probably from 3000-6500) was about 3whp.
To prevent turbulance when an intake/filter is that close to the MAF, the intake has to include a purpose-designed velocity stack (designed for the application, not generic). The only short ram intakes I know of that do that adequately are the JWT POP Charger and the Stillen copy (that is more expensive).
We actually tested on the dyno a bunch of years ago. Compared a K&N filter attached with a short MAF adapter and a JWT POPCharger, recording the electrical signal from the MAF to the ECU at the same time. Electrical signal was much more erratic with the K&N filter. but the dyno confirmed that the effect carried through mechanically. When the smoothing was taken off of the dyno run, the JWT curve went up and down relatively smoothly, but the K&N filter curve looked like a sawblade. I remember that we were really surprised at the difference. It was a long time ago, but I think the average power loss (probably from 3000-6500) was about 3whp.
After I take care of my tranny I think I will do that with the test pipe.
You have some in stock right?
Exhaust ports are the same, theres not that much of a difference externally between VQ30 and VQ35.
Last edited by aackshun; 12-16-2010 at 09:24 PM.
#102
I forgot about this! I was looking @ a JWT Pop Charger earlier this week.
After I take care of my tranny I think I will do that with the test pipe.
You have some in stock right?
Exhaust ports are the same, theres not that much of a difference externally between VQ30 and VQ35.
After I take care of my tranny I think I will do that with the test pipe.
You have some in stock right?
Exhaust ports are the same, theres not that much of a difference externally between VQ30 and VQ35.
#107
i gotta say thats the first time i seen that hood prop, lol! anyways nice numbers man, thats a lot better than i got 2 years ago. i still feel to this day that my SP2 is restricting in some way since the piping is only 2.36''. i would love to get a 3'' catback and re-dyno.
#108
It does go right on, without having to modify it out the gate.... But you may want to shame a few MM's off of the cross member because the rear flange of the flex pipe comes realllllly close to the xmember, it doesn't touch it, but comes really close.
The only other mod I did for this to work is extend my O2 sensor wires, when doing that, please protect them w/ some heat wrap and then something on top of the heat wrap, because the route I have mine taking aint too pretty (around the lower oil pan), and there isn't anywhere else for it to go either, I wanted to keep them away from the headers.
Main complaint about the HEADERS are is the clock angle is slightly off so the cat does not bolt up easily, you'll have to risk the cat not bolting up 100% properly, but so far so good, no exhaust leaks there.
But since this is a cattman thread, I can't let those things go w/o say. I do not like the location of the rear 02 sensor port, makes bolting/unbolting the cat not so easy (if you're like me running around with a not so full tool set and don't have two 14mm wrenches), besides that, and the "drone zone", this catback is awesome, I will have a full review of it on my blog sometime next week (it's already written, I'm just making videos)
Thanks a lot!!! But at this point in time I really do not have any VI plans for this motor or for the car at all.
Hey I'm ballin with working strongarm hood struts now!!!
And yes I do still use your dyno as the 3" comparison... Max_Dreamer needs to dyno his car so we can get an idea of what a 2.5" can really do....
The only other mod I did for this to work is extend my O2 sensor wires, when doing that, please protect them w/ some heat wrap and then something on top of the heat wrap, because the route I have mine taking aint too pretty (around the lower oil pan), and there isn't anywhere else for it to go either, I wanted to keep them away from the headers.
Main complaint about the HEADERS are is the clock angle is slightly off so the cat does not bolt up easily, you'll have to risk the cat not bolting up 100% properly, but so far so good, no exhaust leaks there.
But since this is a cattman thread, I can't let those things go w/o say. I do not like the location of the rear 02 sensor port, makes bolting/unbolting the cat not so easy (if you're like me running around with a not so full tool set and don't have two 14mm wrenches), besides that, and the "drone zone", this catback is awesome, I will have a full review of it on my blog sometime next week (it's already written, I'm just making videos)
i gotta say thats the first time i seen that hood prop, lol! anyways nice numbers man, thats a lot better than i got 2 years ago. i still feel to this day that my SP2 is restricting in some way since the piping is only 2.36''. i would love to get a 3'' catback and re-dyno.
And yes I do still use your dyno as the 3" comparison... Max_Dreamer needs to dyno his car so we can get an idea of what a 2.5" can really do....
Last edited by aackshun; 12-20-2010 at 12:16 AM.
#112
Got some time off from work this month and I finally got the Cattman 3" catback installed. I will try to dyno sometime this year once I get the EU figured out. I think the catback has been sitting for almost a year now in the basement.
The fitment was pretty spot on and only the rear muffler heat shield has to be bent to keep the muffler from hitting it. The sound is great with the 3rd gen Cattman headers, no rasp just a loud zone from 2000~3000 rpm. It sounds deeper and smoother than the 2.5" LSS B pipe / Remus muffler plus the Cattman muffler tip is smaller than the 4" Remus funky tip.
The fitment was pretty spot on and only the rear muffler heat shield has to be bent to keep the muffler from hitting it. The sound is great with the 3rd gen Cattman headers, no rasp just a loud zone from 2000~3000 rpm. It sounds deeper and smoother than the 2.5" LSS B pipe / Remus muffler plus the Cattman muffler tip is smaller than the 4" Remus funky tip.
#113
I think a thread comparing dynos of different exhuast setups would be quite helpful, 3" vs 2.5" vs 2.25" because from what it seems the 3.0s can effectively use a 3" exhuast like the 3.5s can.
#114
#117
I have the dyno testing with the 2.5" catback and cattman headers, along with the SMT-6 tune. I was going to do a back to back test but I really didn't want to spend the money.
Now I have to tune the EU and run the car again to see what will happen. If I can get like 230 WHP at the same RPM I will be happy. If the power curves look better than we will know there is an improvement for the VQ30 to run a 3" catback.
Now I have to tune the EU and run the car again to see what will happen. If I can get like 230 WHP at the same RPM I will be happy. If the power curves look better than we will know there is an improvement for the VQ30 to run a 3" catback.
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