Originally Posted by ajcool2 (Post 8454418)

The fact that the power is almost identical past 6100 is freaking interesting!

Originally Posted by FastnFuriousMax (Post 8454417)

What cams is he running? What does he tune with?

Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 8454791)

:eek:

Great numbers.. Hmmm.... wanna go for pinks ??? ;)

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8454968)

:eek::D

I think your motor cost more then my whole car?

Originally Posted by ranmas2004 (Post 8455171)

The real interesting thing is that your AFR is 13.58-13.72 and you say that is where it makes the most power??? What happens when you richen it up? 12.8?? Less power?? Goes to show 12.8 is not the magic number....

PS.....if you at 300whp ALL MOTOR....imagine what a turbo with 6psi would do!!!! OVER 400whp EASY!!!! If you wanna keep it N/A do some 264 cams and probably make like 330whp....that engine is BEAST!!!!

Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 8455185)

Dunno - maybe.... I've lost track. Well, I hope the coming dyno with E85 and a full load of nitrous will be interesting... Looking forward to 600WHP, anyway. :laugh:

All jokes aside, you have done a fantastic job with the 5.7 build. You learned a lot about using the Haltec and controlling cam timing to make big numbers. Cams and long-tube headers could make even more HP. I think I can use your info about cam sensors when I get to my Haltec installation. That was tricky work.

Sound's like you're also learning about the fun of drag racing - it's a tricky business, but I like it.

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8455190)

Yeppp, my motor def likes 13-2-13.6 better!

Thats on the dyno wideband.


Hhaha yeah! If i do cams idk what i woudl go with. Id want to go aggressive.

The JWT HR C1 is

262 , 11.94 lift


I just dont know enough about it to decide right now. Im sure anything over this stock FWD cam would greatly improve power.


I have a set of stock RWD HR cams. That would help a lot but not as much as some aftermarket cams.

Originally Posted by Rods03Max619 (Post 8455301)

DAMN Nice Numbers.....and Congrats on Breaking 300......:D

Originally Posted by ranmas2004 (Post 8455350)

I would go with the JWT HR C1s!!! Don't even waste your time installing the RWD cams.

Originally Posted by T_Behr904 (Post 8455606)

Hopefully you can get the car to the track soon and post up some video's. I'd also like to see what it could do in a standing mile run!

Originally Posted by 02_VQTr3e5ive (Post 8456031)

wow i am very jealous.....one day i shall do that lol until then...i shall keep on dreaming lol :p

Originally Posted by 95 maxima se (Post 8456050)

300WHP!!! n/a crazy numbers

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8456192)

Yaaa BUTTT the rwd cams all i would have in them is my time.... AND technically it would still be "STOCK" Cams :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:: laugh:

DONT CHEAT.....lol. If you going to go through all that trouble taking the engine apart why put in some STOCK cams, even if they are RWD, probably only get another 10hp or so when you can get some JWT HR C1 cams and have even MORE of a difference? I would just save up and get the JWTs then do cams later. You have PLENTY of power now. You making same power of some cammed VQ35DEs


300whp N/A is not a big deal its 300whp STOCK FWD motor that's so insane about it.

YEP....actually you have to use the numbers that dealers use when advertising cars. So that would be like 350HP at the crank. 350HP STOCK FWD Maxima. More than the 2011 370z stock HP!!! WHA!!!!

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8466797)

^^^^

Hhahaha yeah, id like to do cams in the next year or so.

Originally Posted by FastnFuriousMax (Post 8466877)

Are you leaning towards one set of cams or another? I have always been partial to C9s myself...with the Haltech it should be no problem getting it to idle decently.

Depending on your goals you could also have JWT custom grind a set to match SGs 300 degrees of duration, versus the stock cams which have only 238 degrees of duration, just have to figure out how much lift you want:

http://www.sg-motorsport.com/blog/wp...0-1000x460.jpg

Assuming you saw the same gains that is 25-30 more whp. What can the 09 engine safely spin out to? I would assume 7500...

Originally Posted by aackshun (Post 8466944)

You suck.

I'm sold.

:mrgone:

Originally Posted by NmexMAX (Post 8453230)

:ben:

Saw this on my phone before bedtime last night. I let out a gaaagghh!!! @#$@!#%, and the wifey was like :wtf: ... And i said, 300hp She turned off the lights and went to bed.

I said the faster I hit the hay, the faster I'lll be on here to see this in detail.

Wow, that's the only words to describe this journey. Cripes, a 4" intake, that's insane, but, again, outside the box from conventional thinking, something that is always welcomed. This is MAFLESS, correct, so, obviously no MAF housing debacle, and probably smoother tuning due to the nature of a MAP sensor.

I would also like to see what AFR and timing (static, non VVT) curves were used to achieve that.

What I've seen/found, less timing @ torque peak seems to be the ticket, but, I have no control over mine, it's just the way my curve(Timing) is (lowest timing @ peak torque #).

Can't wait to hear/see details!

Thanks fro sharing all the info Darren, it's priceless.

Originally Posted by essential1 (Post 8453250)

Daaaaaaammmmmnnnn!!!!!!!!

Any thoughts on how the internals would like it if you revved it out to 7500? That thing would stay in the ~300hp powerband at every shift. (Actually, it probably does already with the 6 speed) I wonder where the power starts to fall off.

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8466950)

c9s will require a lot of work, so c8s would be the most aggressive id get.


I have to run a HR style cam though.

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8466950)

Been trying to tell ya for over a year now!

Originally Posted by FastnFuriousMax (Post 8466979)

Yeah with the C9s it means you need to remove the head to clearance it, which if it is your DD that definitively does not make sense to do...unless you picked up a spare head. Which isn't a horrible idea...

Originally Posted by mightyMax95 (Post 8467013)

you've been telling him? he's had to listen to me rant this whole time too, lol

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8467063)

Yeah at that point id want to do rods and pistons too. I actually have a spare set of HR heads already tho. Id rather just do cams and keep "stock ish" motor.

Well thats what i say now hahah





Hhaha yeah! Ive been trying to tell all of maxima.org really. I think its finally coming that this is the way to go.

Esp with all those oil burning worn out piston ring early vq's out there.


Thats one of the best parts of the whole swap, my oil level is not changed at all. The motor has OVER 100 dyno pulls on it too!

Originally Posted by FlipCpt45 (Post 8467077)

ftw FWD VQ35HR! ;)

Originally Posted by NmexMAX (Post 8498448)

Wouldn't happen to have timing logs for these runs would ya?

Planning on hitting the dyno soon, but I'm concerned about my timing and what it's not as high as I want it.

Originally Posted by SR20DEN (Post 8531959)

I still wonder if the 'flat' can be fixed before you do cams. This engine isn't peaking, something is holding it back.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX (Post 8526884)

Any DRF's for these runs, or at least the best ones ... since you have like 40 of 'em :eek:

Originally Posted by SR20DEN (Post 8531959)

I still wonder if the 'flat' can be fixed before you do cams. This engine isn't peaking, something is holding it back.

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8532970)

Possibly, for the most part all the maxima dynos ive seen are some what flat uptop like that. Even sparks SSSIM was flat. I think its a header / ypipe thing.

I reallly want those longtubes Travis is going to make. Thats my next plan, leave motor as is, then install longtubes then dyno.

Originally Posted by SR20DEN (Post 8532988)

Perhaps NMEX has some of my old runfiles to send to you, I think I lost them all. IIRC my best tunes were never flat, at least not that flat.

Originally Posted by SurraTT (Post 8533027)

It peaks around 6k. Just like the other dynos ive got, from the older vq too. Idk how you would get a less flatter line with just fuel tuning??

Maybe reving to 7200 makes it look flatter?


Even with full IVT and EVT control the line is flat, granted id like to spend more time tuning as its def not 100%. But it is good enough for now.