If those are your goals Headers and a Tune is a must, for every pony to the wheels...

What about YPIPE and Tune? *crosses fingers* I might be able to reach an AUTO 5.5....

**** it go for it and let us know....

Maybe possible if at 177hp and the y gives you that whole 10hp, would be 187hp, and sure with a Tune should be able to squeeze another 12plus out of her.

That would be pretty stout. The trq would be through the roof. Id have to add some cars to the kill list!

A few things.

1. he doesn't need to adjust the VIAS.
2. most HP gains come from replacing the y pipe on a 4th gen
3. 5th AND 5.5 gens gain the most from replacing headers. This is because the 5th/5.5 gens precats are not on the y pipe, whereas the 4th gen precats are in the y pipe (except for 99 cali spec - those are just like the 5/5.5gens).

You are 50% right. The VIAS would be my choice...if I chose to have it open earlier in the rev range it would yield more power lower. But you are right I don't need to move it.

On the YPIPE thing you are unfortunately wrong . The YPIPE for the 2000-2001 Fed spec maximas replaces BOTH of the precats (which are built into the stock y pipe). The YPIPE for the 99-01 CALI spec maximas (mine) replaces 1 of the two precats, and also the nasty ugly junction spot. One of the precats is built into the stock y pipe. The other is bolted on. It retains one of these in order to not throw any CEL.

FED
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0234_large.jpg

CALI
http://s533.beta.photobucket.com/use...ust_S.png.html

You gain 0 whp from controlling your VI.

In fact, gut your VIAS, remove the rod, and get headers. y-pipe wont give you much, headers are where the real gains are.

Controlling a VI is old school and doesn't benefit as it used to, or so we "thought" it was benefiting. Also, it's more in tune (no pun intended) to MEVI users, not 00-01 VI's.

And sure, you might argue it wont help peak HP, but make your curve smooth, uninterrupted, more area under the curve, etc. But really, you'd net better gains by using the T&E towards something else, like AFC MAF scaling, and street tuning your AFR.

I'd rather have easy MAF scaling ability than VIAS activation point capability.

Decent hearders go for a price that's so close to a y-pipe, it be unsmart to go with it vs headers.

Whereas you might be right, its more of a question of what im going to do vs what im not going to do. Im pretty sure im not going to do headers. Too much of a pain in the ***. I can do Y and still throw no codes and possibly pass emissions too. Plus if i have to put stock back on for some reason it wont be a huge ordeal. In fact until a day or so ago....i wasnt even consitering a Y. Was gonna be VAFC and done.

So nobody is opening their VI earlier?

He's saying to make your VI wide open, as if it's in 5000 rpms and later mode all the time. Plus the gutting of the rod should open up the top end even more.

I guess I didnt account for the fact that I swapped on the 00VI, so I needed the VAFC to actually open it. It's been awhile since then, so NmexMax is probably your best source. I was just throwing in my .02 based on my experience with it. I could still use that VB any time NmexMax

AHH gaahhh, birthday weekend last weekend, so I was a bit occupied. I'll get on it.

As for the OP, your mind is made up, my work is done here.

Nah not so much made up as only I know my situation vs someone elses. You are obviously right...a whole manifold is always better than a "partial manifold" if you will........its just way more of a pain in the butt as well. I had full headers on my IS300...back in the day.

As far as the VIAS opened all the time......is this a hard mod #1.....and #2....will it kill either low end torque or gas mileage? Something has to suffer...it always does

It will kill low end torque.

Finally... Bold dek guys dynoing lol... Maybe ill do a for shyts n giggles pull....
Intake
Headers
Lw pulley
Lw flywheel
Test pipe
Ecu with adjusted timing...
5mt ae... My afrs are even more rich than yours lol

I like this

This is what I heard. I have a borderline genius friend....lets put it this way...he's building his own plane...from scratch....in his garage.....correctly. He used to build cars and had a 10 second rx-7.....he said dont mess with the vias making it on all the time..... It will run like **** if you do..

I trust him..lol.

I mean why not?! Im puttin down respectable numbers!

What gear did u dyno in?

Not sure...the dyno guy was drivin it. Don't worry...the numbers are accurate.

trust me, I believe you lol... just some folks just don't believe in the DEK numbers

I wouldn't either. I love the way the VQ really comes alive at 3K+ rpms. I love high end power, but not at the sacrifice of low end TQ.

If people on here really like that....uh...then...why dont they go VTEC?

I have a manual and still, don't wanna mess with VIAS... but just because u make a RX-7 run 10 seconds doesn't necessarily means you know whats best for a maxima... I do agree with what hes saying though

to be honest... the DEK has Honda like characteristics, other than Nissan calling it a VIAS is really the only difference lol

Why....is it supposed to be some phantom car that gives innacurrate dyno numbers? They are just mad it doesnt burn oil...lol

Certain technologys and scenarios span across the board. The name brand is irrelivant

I think this is correct.. the few 5mt's I see dyno get those tq numbers pretty much stock so for a lightly auto to match those numbers I def think so... I think the whp numbers are in the give or take areas where I can understand some saying too low, o.k or whatever..

Im gonna break 200wtrq and then some...thats all I know

Without a doubt. What's interesting about your setup is that your adding the Y pipe last after extensively modding your car. The Y pipe is going to enhance e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g. Prepare for the bottle to be uncorked

VTEC switches to a completely separate cam profile, the VIAS changes the intake runner length. Little more to it than just the names.

C-a-n-t-w-a-i-t

Yeah doesn't VTEC have lift...like Toyotas VVTI-L?

When i was 3.0 with just a intake and straight pipe i dynoed 200whp. I was 5speed though. Used a dynojet.

Not even the case of the DEK VIAS, since it's just an inverted MEVI. A

For autos, at least for me, dynoing in 2nd gives lower torque and tends to peak later in the RPM band than 3rd.

I don't think dynoing in second would be closest to that 1:1 gear ratio they look for for accurate dyno numbers. Third or 4th I would think.....

Yep, just sharing my experience. 4th would not be good, speed would top out, somewhere in the 170 mph range and there's always the lock-up to deal with.

3rd seems best, but I've used 2nd in the past.

I removed that valve from my 00VI when I had a cammed DEK with head work.

The power climbed all the way up to 7500 RPM, however there was a noticeable torque loss.

you guys ****tin on the vafc lol... on an auto with no rev extension opening the vi at like 4400 rpm is good, thats just about where every gear drops to. This wouldn't Give him Any extra power but it'll be more useable on the strip and actual everyday wot acceleration.

Im gonna toss a Y pipe on there and dyno.....then probably a VAFC later in the game......not sure if I'll have the VIAS kick in maybe closer to 3k instead of 3.5k to give it a bit of a boost.

As far as the throttle cut....yep super annoying. I have the writeup on how to kill or add a switch to the speed limiter...maybe its something I'll do when they have to break out the harness for the VAFC anyway. I just dont go over 120 enough to bother with that mod right now..lol

I wouldn't bother with it, since having the VI switch to the short runners is inefficient for the engine at that RPM. Factory engagement is around 5,000; according to the FSM.

If you check out my dyno its kicking on at a little under 3.5k....

That's not your VI that's probably your torque converter locking up or something. Look right before 5,000 RPM the powerband is falling and then at 5,000 it kicks on and the power keeps climbing.

Hmmm....when I first saw it I figured it was actually the dyno guy back off on the throttle at first so it wouldnt downshift.......then pushing it all the way in....

I got thrown off by your post. I didnt even see the spike up at high rpms..I thought you meant that big old spike in the middle...

I said that without being extra technical i think you got a lil too technical for the context lmao... mmk though, u got it lol

everybody keep saying go Y-pipe, but i'd say go the whole header/y setup... more power and just a y on the 3.0 doesn't sound good IMO...

i need to find a dynojet like tht 1 lol

....straight pipe leaves me with many questions. Could be straight off the manifold...straight from the cat back...straight from resonator back?