slickrick

iTrader: (12)

what exact type of oil should i put in for the 3750miles oil change? what do u guys recommend?

palmerwmd

I personally feel that at 3750 miles your car is plenty driven-in to switch to a full synthetic oil.
I would.

You will get all sorts of brand recommendations here, but on a brand new engine, I think I would prefer MOBIL 1, because its formulation is low on detergents, which you dont need so much yet, making room for more base stock and other additives.
Also as your internal clearances are still very tight, it would be a good idea to stick to a thinner oil such as a 10w-30/5w-30 (no need to got to a 0w-30 unless in a minnesota winter)

Fred...


PS: Those of you that are shocked, that I recommended MOBIL1 10w-30, over my usual preferences.., it all depends on the application..

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Here we go again Amsoil 5-30 is what I run.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

i live in ft. lauderdale and gainsville florida. so whats the advantage of synthetic oil? i want my car to run fine for 5 years. will putting in synthetic disadvantage this at all?

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

my first oil change was at 1000, then 2200, and finally 3000...I use regular...I wont recommand switching to syn untill 8 - 10k (when ur VQ is fully break-in)

I still use regular and blackstone oil test yield a satisfactory result

hint: (in case u dunno) turn ur steering wheel all the way to the right and u will have access to the filter and drain bolt. save sometime driving it onto the ramp or jacking up the car.

palmerwmd

Even in a warm climate a syn oil will give you a bit extra start protection (tho the advantage isn't as huge as in say Minnesota).

Syn oils cling better to metal parts and you are likely to have more oil coating metal, than with a non syn when starting.

Also remember the VQ is an overhead cam engine, which are by design especially needy of good start protection.

As for the other end of protection...:
A syn oil of a given weight, will give much better film strennght than a non syn of the same weight would.

Add to this lees volatility of a syn (=less varnish), less VI's (=less varnish), more stability (= less sludging) etc etc.

A lot of guys think that syn oils, are primarily a cold climate helper, maybe because of the historical roots of PAO synthetic oils in providing cold climate service for the german Army in Russia in WWII; but they offer significant advantages in all climates.


Fred...

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

now my car will be parked in a parking garage most of the week, at my university, so it wont be used much, wuld it be better 2 use a 10 w 40?

palmerwmd

Even though I am a big supporter of thicker oils in summer (unlike many others on this board), I would not recommend going to a 40 weight oil with a car whose internal clearances are still so tight.
Go to a 40 weight synthetic in a couple of years and then stay there all year (in FL climate).


Fred...

ms.thicknes

Hey Fred....you've just been hitting every single oil thread today!!!

well since you are fond of typing....help a lady out!

I have a 2k1 manual, and 18k miles with regular oil changes (I changed mine at every 4k)
I would like to switch to a synthetic oil...my driving is primarily home to work and back which is a little under 20 miles round trip AND i live in Miami, FL

what synthetic oil and weight do you suggest??

thanks
nette

ps.. i looked at the oil analysis...and I'm dyslexic..all it did was give me a headache

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

No love for Evilbill.

palmerwmd

Ms thickness:

I would recommend a 40 weight due to your prevalence of hiway driving and the fact that you live in Florida.

Valvoline SynPower 5w-40 or AMSOIL 10w-40 come to mind as my first choices.
Neither will be available at every auto parts store.
But with a little calling around you should be able to find a place that caries one or the other.

Of course your engine is still pretty tight and probably clean enough that I wouldn't call the widely available MOBIL1 10w-30 wrong (lower on detergent and of course thinner)... I would however still prefer the two oils mentioned above.


Fred...

palmerwmd

Yes there is!

You rule man!

Fred...

ms.thicknes

I love you too....and will also accept any suggestions that you have....but your table gave me a headache and I was forced to go shopping to combat it....so I am a bit tiffed at you!! LOL

I gots MADDDD love for you boo (and yes that is something that I would say in person)

asu174

iTrader: (11)

I agree, Annette. For us "regular Joes", Bill's table is quite complicated. The only thing I got out of it is that I don't REALLY have to change my oil every 3000 miles.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

yes i do live in ft. lauderdale. but i go 2 the university of florida. and i drive there and back about 4 times a year. the rest of the time its in a parking garage, and when i do drive it in gainesville, its strictly city driving, rarely highway. so im not sure what 2 do anymore.

ms.thicknes

really?? I didn't get to that part!!!

ya'll are a wonderful bunch of folks

palmerwmd

Rick I'm still confident of the MOBIL1 10w-30 recommendation , due to your low milage.

Switch to a 40 weight in a year or two.


Fred..

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

alrite, sounds cool. its my 1st actualy nice car and i got it new so i wanna treat it right.

palmerwmd

Perhaps an additional explanation is in order.

Where does oil pressure come from?
Not from the oil pump.
The oil pump just moves the oil.
It is the resistance of the engine internals/galleries AGAINST that flow that creates pressure, you want to keep your oil pressure in the range the engine is designed for.
When the engine is new all the internals are still very tight, and will present a lot of resistance to flow, as a result you can get good pressure even with thinner oils.
(Thicker oils resist flow more= more oil pressure).

The reason one recommends thicker oils in a hot climate, is cuz even with a good cooling system the oil temp will rise when it's 100F ambient vs 30F ambient.
Hence a thicker oil to still stay in a viscosity range that will balance oil pressure, oil film thickness, and oil flow.

With your low milage, one would expect your engine to be tight, so that even a thinner oil will give you good pressure.

Also your engine is still very clean, so your need for detergents is lower.., and when you need less detergents you want a lower detergent formulation (such as MOBIL1), cuz that way you can have more base oil or other additives .

So again in summary MOBIL1 10w-30.


Fred...

palmerwmd

I can really relate, I really love my car too.


Fred...

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

It's a lot of info to digest.......


For where you are, 10W/30 is probably the best all around choice since the VQ35 is new. After 80 or 90k, then 10W/40 could do the trick.

Another key is picking a good oil filter. Nice sized VQ oil filters are about impossible to find. Here is the best one:

STP S6941 $6.99 at Auto Zone

It's about an inch or so longer than the OEM or other OEM replacement filters, and has a top bypass valve design, and is cheaper and made on the same assembly line as the $12 Mobil 1 filters. It will tend to last longer and filter better over a longer drain interval than standard size OEM filters.

The Motorcraft FL-821 is a good as well, but it's only the OEM stock size. However, it's close to $6 at Advance Auto Parts and difficult to justify cost-wise for a standard size VQ filter. You may be able to find this one at Auto Zone as well, but none of them in my area carried this particular one.

It's REAL aggravating the expense of these particular filters. All VQ30/VQ35, VH41, KA24DE, and most Nissans made in 98 or newer require this particular size filter and few aftermarket guys have an oversized application for it. I only found the one above in some fairly extensive research. Meanwhile, the VG30, VH45, VE30 all used a more universal filter that has the same features as the above STP one and is only $2 to $3........

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

so what is a reputable place to get an oil change besides the dealer. i hate hearing of horror stories of idiots forgetting to put new oil in or whatever.

Nyc2kMax

Castrol drive hard 10 W30

palmerwmd

That is a risk you run everywhere.
MY experince has been it's best to develop a relationship with a shop, even if it's "just" a tire shop.
Generally they will do oil changes better than the oil change places, cuz they want to keep your good will for when you need new tires.
Also they do many other little maintenace things, you might want done w/o going to dealer and you often get more attention (especially when u come in with a nice car, it's not so busy and they can tell you love your car) than you would from either the dealer, or a lube chain place.

This strategy has worked really well for me in the past 10 years of driving cars I obsess about.

It also doesn't hurt to tip the tech, a buck or two, and tell him to take good care of your baby.
You will get the extra effort that a chain usually won't encourage (time=money).
It might make him more careful to keep your dipstick clean, make sure he prelubes the filter just right and things like that.

One thing I dont like about going to the dealer you dont get any interaction with the man doing the work.

Best of all is you get to watch at say a Tires Plus, Firstone etc shop.
(Say something like: hey buddy hoipe you dont mind if I watch I just like seeing my car like this. Some techs are botehred by people watching but if you say something nice they generally won't mind and not consider it a non-trust thing))


Fred...


PS: Don't forget to bring your OEM filter and your own choice of oil, (if they dont carry the oil), the filter you have to bring regardless, they wont carry a good filter generally.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

well im outta town at college, and its kinda hickville, so i dunno where 2 do. so i guess ill look around and c if the carry the oil i wanna use, and what kinda filter do i need?

palmerwmd

Rick:

get the OEM Nissan filter they are pretty good.
Bill has some filter recommendation to make I am sure, he really pointed out a few good ones for me.
But the NIssan OEM are pretty decent.

Most places will let you bring your own oil (ask nicely), if they don't carry what you want.

Some will even totally take the charge for the their oil, out of the oil change charge, when you bring your own oil.
While this sounds only fair, it really hurts their margins, as they have calculated their rates based on being able to charge a mark-up on oil to keep the doors open.
So don't expect it as a matter of course, that they completely take off the oil charge.
if they dont take it off or only partially thats ok too depending on what tehir rates are.
My local FireStone charges only $14 per oil change.
When I came in the first time with my own oil, I made it clear, that I didn't expect a discount below those $14, as their rate is so low to begin with.


Most places will not carry MOBIL1 in stock, and those that do, will charge outrageous prices for it in mark-up.
Best look for those that don't carry it, so you have an excuse to bring it in yourself and pay much less $$ at the autoparts store (MOBIL 1 in a store $4-5, at a oil change place around $8/quart.)

Fred...

Mikie

k... Every 3000 miles I change the oil. But do you agree with the "or 3 months which ever comes first"? I do not use the car much. I will only have lets say 2250 miles after 3 months. Your opinions, do I wait till 4 months at 3000 miles or bring it in every 3 month anyways? I also understand the first oil change it is better to do it sooner than later but what about future changes?

SHPatel

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion you don't have to do it that often at all. Especially if you're running synthetic. I'm currently going 7500 miles with mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 with a nissan oem filter. Hey Bill is this ok?

ms.thicknes

I agree with you on that!!!
the place that I orginally went to for a set of tires 3 years ago is now my do it all slice of heaven! They don't mind me standing there and watching and asking questions (and everyone there knows me by name and vice versa!!)

they are just as excited about moding my car as I am!!!

I think they do some of the stuff just because I keep coming back....AND they have great prices on tires (better than anyone else in the area--they always undercut the competition)

all this reminiscing makes me want to go and see them today!!

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

whats the difference between 5w30 and 10w30? the owners manual says to use 5w30?

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

5W-30 gives better start-up protection and fuel economy, especially in cooler climates. Once the oil is at operating temp., the difference between the two weights is neglible.

RealSER

a common misconception is the labeled "weight" of synthetic oil. All weights of synthetic are the same. They label them differently simply for marketing purposes.

jonnyb

Since we're giving oil suggestions...

I live in Omaha, Nebraska. I have a 2000 SE 5spd with 29,250 miles...I'm going to be doing my oil change tomorrow. What are the recommendations? Both for oil, and the filter.

Oh, I've been having my oil changed by the dealership every 3000 miles, and have had every scheduled service done.

Thanks

palmerwmd

Uhm,..
??????

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Care to attempt to elaborate on that and bring your post count up to 2?

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Your probably doing the oil change right now, but either 5W-30 or 10W-30 is the best weight. If it's conventional oil, 10W-30 summer and 5W-30 winter. If it's synthetic, either one will work fine year round. My order of preference for filters is Amsoil, Mobil 1 and then Nissan. If you're going to continue to change your oil every 3K, your best bet would be to buy a bulk lot of OEM filters online somewhere.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

You need to re-think your filter choices.


My research results:

VQs:


Oversized (an inch or so longer than OEM sized):

STP: S6941 ($6.99); The only nicely oversized oil filter I can find that has a good top bypass valve design, is available locally, and wins my top recommendation.
Amsoil: SDF-36 ($9+)

OEM sized:

Nissan OEM: 15208-9EOOO (approx. $4 - $6 at dealer)
Motorcraft: FL-821 ($5.69)
Mobil 1: M1-110 (approx. $12)

"Thimble"-sized (slighthly smaller in diameter and an inch or so shorter than OEM, and looks to be similar in size to the new VQ35 recommended filters):

Supertech: ST6607 ($1.97); available at Wal-Mart only
STP: S6607 ($2.99)
Amsoil: SDF-13 ($12+)
Mobil 1: M1-108 ($12)
Purolator PureONE: PL-14620 ($5.99)

Not sure between OEM and thimble, as I haven't looked at one lately:
Bosch: 3323 ($5.49); Just a re-badged and more expensive version of the STP filter since both are made by champion

I need to re-look at the PureONE 14620, as I took it to be a bit smaller than the "OEM sized" ones.

I don't think I have mentioned Supertech, which is a Champinon made filter for Wal-Mart stores. It has a rep of being almost identical to the Mobile 1 filters. Too bad only the thimble size is available.



I now consider Amsoil filters overpriced for what you get.....

srbarnes4ever

I now consider Amsoil filters overpriced for what you get..... [/B][/QUOTE]


Certainly overpriced if you're not going for extended drain intervals Bill. Also on my last change I swapped from the SDF-13 to the Pureone 14620 and I did not notice any appreciable difference in size between the two. Great info as always from you.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

I did, I ordered the SDF36

Even considering that with extended drain intervals you would still have to replace the STP more frequently?

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Overpriced? You've purchased a 25k+ car and your worried about an extra couple of bucks an oil change? If your so worried about the money, why not use extended drain intervals? You'll recapture that precious few dollars and actually save a few more