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Can I switch to synthetic oil at 58,000 miles???

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Old Oct 12, 2002 | 03:52 PM
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Can I switch to synthetic oil at 58,000 miles???

Yeah, I searched, but couldn't find a straight answer. Is it OK to do this?
Old Oct 12, 2002 | 04:11 PM
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The VQ is a pretty tight engine, so you should be fine. Are you using any oil now? If you are, I'd probably recommend against it. If not, there's no reason not to -- other than the cost. I switched to Mobil1 at about 32K miles only because I bought the car at 27K miles and the oil was changed right before I bought it. I'd do it if I were in your shoes.
Old Oct 12, 2002 | 04:16 PM
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As long as the car isn't leaking oil, there won't be any problems with switching. VQ's have been switched sucessfully with much higher mileage.

kirzan - If the engine is consuming oil due to hard use, not physcially burning it with blue smoke from the exhaust, using a high quality synthetic can actually reduce consumption.
Old Oct 12, 2002 | 04:25 PM
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Originally posted by iwannabmw
As long as the car isn't leaking oil, there won't be any problems with switching. VQ's have been switched sucessfully with much higher mileage.

kirzan - If the engine is consuming oil due to hard use, not physcially burning it with blue smoke from the exhaust, using a high quality synthetic can actually reduce consumption.
Good point, I didn't even consider that. I've just heard some horror stories from rotary engine and/or high mileage cars that switch to synthetics and have horrible blow-by problems (which would obviously manifest itself with blue smoke). Realistically, that probably applies to cars with 100K+ miles. And I KNOW you're an authorized Amsoil distributor. If I didn't have such an instant-gratification problem, I'd have probably ordered Amsoil from you. So much easier to drive down to Autozone and pick up five quarts of Mobil1. Maybe I'll plan ahead better next time ...
Old Oct 12, 2002 | 06:51 PM
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mobil1 addresses this issue on their website (FAQ).
Old Oct 12, 2002 | 08:02 PM
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I have alwasy switched all my used cars (generally close to 100k) to a full synthetic.
They were not VQ's but VH45DE's but those 2 engines come from the same designhouse so not too many differnces here I would think.

Fred...
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 08:03 AM
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Is 5w/30 the best weight to go with?
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 08:28 AM
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NO.

Unless you are going thru a Canadadian winter 10w-30 will be a better oil.

I personally prefer thicker oils than that even, but since hardly anyone this board agrees and I have a differnt engine anyway (VH45DE). I wont offer those thicker recommendations at this time.


Fred...
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 09:31 AM
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Thanks. THe only reaso I ask is because it gets below 0 during Iowa winters and Mobil 1 recommends 10w-30 if the temps don't drop below 0.

Originally posted by palmerwmd
NO.

Unless you are going thru a Canadadian winter 10w-30 will be a better oil.

I personally prefer thicker oils than that even, but since hardly anyone this board agrees and I have a differnt engine anyway (VH45DE). I wont offer those thicker recommendations at this time.


Fred...
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 09:37 AM
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actually, I've stuck with 5w-30. I didnt like the startup noise I was getting with 10w-30.

my max likes 5W better and my PF like 10W better on startup. I guess its all 30W in a few mins anyway..
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 11:40 AM
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Originally posted by jjames
Thanks. THe only reaso I ask is because it gets below 0 during Iowa winters and Mobil 1 recommends 10w-30 if the temps don't drop below 0.

You should use the 0W-30 or 5W-30, no matter what Mobil's website says.
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I ended up getting Castrol Syntec 5w30. The guy at Auto Zone recommended using a blend for a couple of oil changes before going to 100% synthetic. I got the Mobil1 filter though.

I might just stick with the Syntec. I've been searching, and it seems to get pretty good reviews.
Old Oct 13, 2002 | 08:18 PM
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Well Iowa does get pretty cold.

A 5w-30 can be justified there IMHO.

Fred...
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 05:47 AM
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Originally posted by palmerwmd
NO.

Unless you are going thru a Canadadian winter 10w-30 will be a better oil.

I personally prefer thicker oils than that even, but since hardly anyone this board agrees and I have a differnt engine anyway (VH45DE). I wont offer those thicker recommendations at this time.


Fred...

Fred,


I wish I was more familiar with the VH....are you aware of any oil analysis reports on the VH engines?



I would be more comfortable putting a 40-weight oil in a VH than a VQ simply because of the larger displacement, oil pump, extra 2 cylinders, etc......although the Maxima manual does allow for the use of 40-weight oils in certain instances.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 05:56 AM
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Originally posted by kirzan


Good point, I didn't even consider that. I've just heard some horror stories from rotary engine and/or high mileage cars that switch to synthetics and have horrible blow-by problems (which would obviously manifest itself with blue smoke). Realistically, that probably applies to cars with 100K+ miles. And I KNOW you're an authorized Amsoil distributor. If I didn't have such an instant-gratification problem, I'd have probably ordered Amsoil from you. So much easier to drive down to Autozone and pick up five quarts of Mobil1. Maybe I'll plan ahead better next time ...
In addition, I don't see how Mobil 1 can reduce oil consumption significantly as it is 10 to 15% less viscous (i.e. thinner) when brand new than other synthetics such as Amsoil, Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Syntec, etc. Only Mobil 1's 0W/40 SuperSyn "European" formulation bucks that trend with a relatively thicker initial viscosity, most likely in order to pass Mercedes Benz and BMW's shear and stability tests, which are much more stringent that anything U.S.-based.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 07:49 AM
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Originally posted by bill99gxe


In addition, I don't see how Mobil 1 can reduce oil consumption significantly as it is 10 to 15% less viscous (i.e. thinner) when brand new than other synthetics such as Amsoil, Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Syntec, etc. Only Mobil 1's 0W/40 SuperSyn "European" formulation bucks that trend with a relatively thicker initial viscosity, most likely in order to pass Mercedes Benz and BMW's shear and stability tests, which are much more stringent that anything U.S.-based.
Do you have any info on the stability on MOBIL1 0w-40?
The one things that keeps me from running it, is the concern over the large spread.
My current syn oil is in 5w-40 still plenty thin for winter but a 40 weight for my driving style, which includes some streetracing on occaision.
Still my current fill has a bit of spread as well...

Fred...
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 08:04 AM
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guy at Auto Zone recommended using a blend for a couple of oil changes before going to 100% synthetic. I got the Mobil1 filter though
:/ right.. 'cause he has 100's of thousands of miles and hundreds of changes and a stack of oil analysis reports.

so whats his theory? use the crappiest oil so your engine will appreciate the mobil when you put it in?
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 08:29 AM
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Actually syntec maybe fine... I hate it for screwing up syn for everyone..
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 08:31 AM
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Originally posted by jjames
Thanks for the input guys. I ended up getting Castrol Syntec 5w30. The guy at Auto Zone recommended using a blend for a couple of oil changes before going to 100% synthetic. I got the Mobil1 filter though.

I might just stick with the Syntec. I've been searching, and it seems to get pretty good reviews.

I'm confused.......are you using Castrol Syntec Blend or Castrol Syntec?


If it's Syntec Blend, that stuff isn't very good. It is empirically worse from an additive package and TBN standpoint than Castrol's own conventional GTX dino oil. If it's Syntec FULL synthetic, then it's OK. I personally like/prefer Mobil 1 and Valvoline SynPower in terms of "off the shelf" products, but Syntec is all right.



The guy at AutoZone doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. It's always good advice to ignore most anything employees at major auto part chain stores say, ESPECIALLY on weekends when the good employees usually aren't there anyway.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 08:57 AM
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Originally posted by palmerwmd


Do you have any info on the stability on MOBIL1 0w-40?
The one things that keeps me from running it, is the concern over the large spread.
My current syn oil is in 5w-40 still plenty thin for winter but a 40 weight for my driving style, which includes some streetracing on occaision.
Still my current fill has a bit of spread as well...

Fred...
SuperSyn specs (all viscosities)

https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...0?OpenDocument

I'm alot more comfortable from a viscosity standpoint with the 0W/40....


Also, it's more shear stable than other xW/30 Mobil oils:

Mobil 1 5W30 Noack: 13%, HTHS 3.1
Mobil 1 10W30 Noack: 8.8 % HTHS 3.2
Mobil 1 0w40 Noack: HTHS > 3.5 (spec says 3.6)


Shameless cut and paste:
------------------------
Mobil 1 0W-40 & 15w-50 meet the ACEA A3-02 category spec. The xW-30 oils meet the A1 & A5-02 spec. The category descriptions are copied below and the tests are listed in the ACEA link. Only the 0W-40 oil meets the Mercedes Benz MB 229.3 spec.

https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26 b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/61638dff7d0453b085256b8400618b40?OpenDocument

http://www.acea.be/ACEA/20020618Publ...lSequences.pdf
A1: Oil intended for use in gasoline engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a High Temperature / High Shear Rate Viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in
some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

A5: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a HT/HS of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

A3: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and / or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and / or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe
operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.

------------------------
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 09:16 AM
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Syntec Blend.

Originally posted by bill99gxe



I'm confused.......are you using Castrol Syntec Blend or Castrol Syntec?


If it's Syntec Blend, that stuff isn't very good. It is empirically worse from an additive package and TBN standpoint than Castrol's own conventional GTX dino oil. If it's Syntec FULL synthetic, then it's OK. I personally like/prefer Mobil 1 and Valvoline SynPower in terms of "off the shelf" products, but Syntec is all right.



The guy at AutoZone doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. It's always good advice to ignore most anything employees at major auto part chain stores say, ESPECIALLY on weekends when the good employees usually aren't there anyway.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 09:27 AM
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Originally posted by jjames
Syntec Blend.

If you must, go 3k on it and use something else..........Castrol GTX, Pennzoil PureBase, Mobil 1, Crisco, Mazola

You got taken for a ride by the ignorant "salesman". If you feel a need to use the blend oil, the Mobil 1 Drive Clean Blend oil is a much better oil than the Castrol Syntec Blend, even though I'm not a big fan of blend oils.


Please don't tell me you're using Fram oil filters......


If so, use STP S6941 or Nissan OEM.....
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 09:41 AM
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Thanks for the tip. I'll go 3k on this and either use a different synthetic blend, or switch to a full synthetic. His reasoning was that it could cause damage to the seals and oil leaks if I switched to a full synthetic right away. He told me to use a blend for a couple of changes, then switch to full synthetic.

About the filter. Mobil1 MI110.

Originally posted by bill99gxe



If you must, go 3k on it and use something else..........Castrol GTX, Pennzoil PureBase, Mobil 1, Crisco, Mazola

You got taken for a ride by the ignorant "salesman". If you feel a need to use the blend oil, the Mobil 1 Drive Clean Blend oil is a much better oil than the Castrol Syntec Blend, even though I'm not a big fan of blend oils.


Please don't tell me you're using Fram oil filters......


If so, use STP S6941 or Nissan OEM.....
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 09:47 AM
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Originally posted by jjames
Thanks for the tip. I'll go 3k on this and either use a different synthetic blend, or switch to a full synthetic. His reasoning was that it could cause damage to the seals and oil leaks if I switched to a full synthetic right away. He told me to use a blend for a couple of changes, then switch to full synthetic.

About the filter. Mobil1 MI110.

Obviously they aren't selling much in the way of blend oils, because that reason loses me completely......


Good filter choice.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 09:50 AM
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Originally posted by TimW
mobil1 addresses this issue on their website (FAQ).
His reasoning was that it could cause damage to the seals and oil leaks if I switched to a full synthetic right away. He told me to use a blend for a couple of changes, then switch to full synthetic.
not to be a jerk, but if you had actually read the faq on Mobil1's site, you could have schooled him on syn and seals. :/
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 10:05 AM
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Alright boyz.. I'm glad it's pick on Jason and his choice of oil day.

Like I didn't feel dumb enough walking out of Auto Zone w/ a completely different oil than I went in with the intention of buying. The little Bosnian fella was just too slick for me.

Another question. And rememer, I'm obviously not the brightest guy in town, so use small words. I saw Mobil 1 synthetic for new cars, and a different one for high mileage cars. My car is not new, but I wouldn't say HIGH miles either.

Which one?
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 11:26 AM
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from Myths About Synthetics

http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp

Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.

Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.

ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.

If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.


----------------------

Nobody is picking on you or calling you stupid. Ask us what we think, then listen to the dork at the autozone counter might bug us alittle. Technically he would be correct if you drove a 72 Pinto in there. Maybe thats what he has.

Regardless, your car will be fine anyway.
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 12:02 PM
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Originally posted by TimW

Nobody is picking on you or calling you stupid.


*** Yeah, I know. I was just having a little fun at my own expense.

Ask us what we think, then listen to the dork at the autozone counter might bug us a little.
*** Copy that. THAT is precisely why I felt so stupid walking out of there w/ something different.

Technically he would be correct if you drove a 72 Pinto in there. Maybe thats what he has.
*** I think I saw one in the parking lot.

Regardless, your car will be fine anyway.
[/QUOTE]
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 03:05 PM
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Originally posted by bill99gxe



Fred,


I wish I was more familiar with the VH....are you aware of any oil analysis reports on the VH engines?



I would be more comfortable putting a 40-weight oil in a VH than a VQ simply because of the larger displacement, oil pump, extra 2 cylinders, etc......although the Maxima manual does allow for the use of 40-weight oils in certain instances.
VH45DE:

From owners manual:
"It is important that the oil visaocosity be selected based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be oprrated until the next oil change"

It then gives gudiance based on temp ranges:

60F or less: 5w-30
Temps above 0F: 10w-30 OR 10w-40
If temps stay above 50F: 20w-40 or 20w-50

Keep in mind this is not a loose domestic style V8, but this is a good example of what pre-CAFE manufactureres recommendations look like.
Also keep in mind that this is the same design bureau that created the VQ series.
I suspect they would look exactly the same for the VQ30DE/VQ35DE, if oil recommendations were given out with maximum engine protection in mind, rather than MPG.

Fred...
Old Oct 14, 2002 | 03:42 PM
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Originally posted by bill99gxe



Fred,


I wish I was more familiar with the VH....are you aware of any oil analysis reports on the VH engines?
.
Hmm, not yet.
Do you think I should enter your oil analysis program here?
How does it work again?
I just changed my oil at 2800 miles, using the Bosch premium filter I had left with 6 quarts of 5w-40 ValvolineSynPower.
I usually change between 2700-3400 miles (unless I am on a major roadtrip.
In mid-summer '98, I went 6700 miles in 3 weeks, on one fill of MOBIL1 15w-50 in a VH45DE engine.
The longest I ever went on one oil change.

Fred...
Old Oct 15, 2002 | 05:48 AM
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Originally posted by palmerwmd


VH45DE:

From owners manual:
"It is important that the oil visaocosity be selected based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be oprrated until the next oil change"

It then gives gudiance based on temp ranges:

60F or less: 5w-30
Temps above 0F: 10w-30 OR 10w-40
If temps stay above 50F: 20w-40 or 20w-50

Keep in mind this is not a loose domestic style V8, but this is a good example of what pre-CAFE manufactureres recommendations look like.
Also keep in mind that this is the same design bureau that created the VQ series.
I suspect they would look exactly the same for the VQ30DE/VQ35DE, if oil recommendations were given out with maximum engine protection in mind, rather than MPG.

Fred...
My 99 Maxima manual only alludes to the use of 5W/30 and 10W/30 when temps are above zero. I know at some point, it is stated in the manual that 10W/40 can be used, but I don't recall of any xW/50 oils were recommended in certain ambient conditions.......

That's what's intriguing about Mobil 1's 5W/40....no mention of enhancing fuel economy.
Old Oct 15, 2002 | 05:55 AM
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Originally posted by palmerwmd
Hmm, not yet.
Do you think I should enter your oil analysis program here?
How does it work again?
]



http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=100060
Old Jun 17, 2003 | 09:09 AM
  #33  
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i had 133,000 miles on my car before i switched to synthetic mobil 1. I am almost at 135,000 and no problems at all as far as oil is concerned. I'll update u as time goes...
Old Jun 17, 2003 | 11:04 AM
  #34  
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I changed over to Mobil 1 10W30 last month. 2000 Maxima V6 5 Speed, 39000 miles. I do feel that the engine revs noticably smoother than before.

Used to use Castrol GTX, then to Castrol Syntec 10W30 for the last two oil changes. Decided recently to go full synthetic. I typically changed oil and filter (Pureone) at 5000 to 7000 mile intervals, depending on chance to do oil change. I drive 75 plus miles per day, 99% highway.

I am planning to extend the change interval to 7500 to 10,000 miles, due to better lubrication properties of full synthetic.

I averaged 29 mpg on last two fillups during the last month, wheras, I use to get around 25-26 mpg. Not sure whether this was due to synthetic oil usage or not.
Old Jun 24, 2003 | 02:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by bill99gxe

The guy at AutoZone doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. It's always good advice to ignore most anything employees at major auto part chain stores say, ESPECIALLY on weekends when the good employees usually aren't there anyway.
I have two things to say, I use to work at autozone back in school. I work on weeknight and weekend
1. The manager always point to us what is the best item to sale for the store maximum profit.
2. I think I am a good employee


what's up Mr. Bill, I still owe you my oil analysis, just switch to amsoil and will do a longer change interval and of course I will submit the copy of the report to you.


Thanks
Old Jun 24, 2003 | 02:56 PM
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Originally posted by exunaja

what's up Mr. Bill, I still owe you my oil analysis, just switch to amsoil and will do a longer change interval and of course I will submit the copy of the report to you.


Thanks

Old Jul 11, 2003 | 04:13 PM
  #37  
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I live in Miami where it will almost never get colder than 35-40 degrees. What synthetic oil type should I be looking for? Thanks in advance.
Old Jul 11, 2003 | 07:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by IwANnAMaX96
I live in Miami where it will almost never get colder than 35-40 degrees. What synthetic oil type should I be looking for? Thanks in advance.
Amsoil 5w-30 or Mobil 1 10w-30. Mobil 1 is on the thin side; Amsoil will thicken in viscosity as it goes along.
Old Jul 13, 2003 | 10:19 AM
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Does the fact that Mobil 1 is a bit thinner contribute to greater wear, or is it neglegible?
Old Jul 13, 2003 | 02:30 PM
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negligible
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